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Old 03-22-2013, 10:46 PM   #1726
swamp
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Originally Posted by Valimagdon View Post
It has the cup. I got a Seat Concepts cover/ foam and it is nice and flat where it needs to be.
Tall/ Dakar seat:
SeatConcepts:

good info thanks, yea its that cup that i hate. i just want a dirt bike seat for it. ill probably buy one of the renazaco seats.
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:42 AM   #1727
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Well, it sounds like most everyone who bought one of these had the same goals as I do. Starting to look more seriously, but a couple more Qs...l

Is there a VIN number, production date etc after which BMW has already fixed the hot start decomp lever issue?

Is anyone using the BMW engine guards bars that fit over the stock skid plate? Would they be adequate for skidding over small logs, rocks etc.? Not planning to do that all the time, but still..... The bars look pretty solid, but the stock plate underneath looks like something could punch through it pretty easily, or am I wrong?
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:19 AM   #1728
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Originally Posted by swamp View Post
good info thanks, yea its that cup that i hate. i just want a dirt bike seat for it. ill probably buy one of the renazaco seats.
Swamp, there not cheap but I must say it's the best money I spent! Not a great picture, was taken last year in Hunter Mountain.

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Old 03-23-2013, 09:10 AM   #1729
swamp
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Originally Posted by alskee750 View Post
Swamp, there not cheap but I must say it's the best money I spent! Not a great picture, was taken last year in Hunter Mountain.

hey buddy,
is that your stock seat cover?
thats a Ranzco (sp?) right ?

how long did it take them to make it and ship it to you?
im running out of time. it may have to wait.

friggin sweet picture by the way. beautiful country up there. looks kind of like alabama...... wait a fucking minute! thats a golf course ! LMFAO!! yea!!
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:31 AM   #1730
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Originally Posted by swamp View Post
hey buddy,
is that your stock seat cover?
thats a Ranzco (sp?) right ?

how long did it take them to make it and ship it to you?
im running out of time. it may have to wait.

friggin sweet picture by the way. beautiful country up there. looks kind of like alabama...... wait a fucking minute! thats a golf course ! LMFAO!! yea!!
Swamp, yeah it's a renzaco seat. It's not the same seat cover they redid the whole seat. I couldn't take the stock seat I thought I was going to lose my ass But once I changed it, literally night and day. I can go for hours on that seat. Very comfy and top quality and great customer service. I recall your leaving next month? It took like 3-4 weeks and you have to book and see what is there availability.

lol.. golf course... lol.. Nah, its a ski resort which once a year you can go up and ride the trails and camp. Pretty fun, rained all weekend so it made for a muddy ride most of the time.

Good luck...
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Old 03-23-2013, 02:45 PM   #1731
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Thanks for the PM Widowto.
I'lll post my reply here for everyone.
The Progressive springs are shorter than stock. They did not come with washers or spacer material so i got the stuff at the hardware store. Just use schedule 40 pvc tubing. I can't remember the diameter. All I did was take a spring in with me and eyeball it. It was a perfect match of the O.D. Same with the washers. Use nickel plated steel, not galvanized. It's too rough and might possibly bind.
I did take pics of the new spring with cut spacer and washer next to the stock spring and spacer. It was a cinch to get the correct length for the spacer. I just lined up the springs with the stocker and it's spacer (it had no washer) and then marked the new spacer pvc with a marker at the same length. Then I cut the first spacer with a Park bike tools fork steerer cutting guide. It clamps the pipe and you line your mark up with the slot/guide to make your cut with a hacksaw. No rocket science believe me. Just make sure you get the bottoms of the stock and progressive perfectly lined up. I had a nice little edge on my work bench to slide the springs against to get that right. Then take the rest of the spacer material and line it up with the cut one, mark it and cut it. Simple stuff.
For the opening up of the forks you just make sure you do one at a time, from start to finish. This way you don't have to figure out a way to support the bike so it doesn't scare the shit out of you when you pull the 2nd top cap and it goes schoop! to the front wheel, spooging all of your fork oil all over the place. It doesn't matter, but in the interest of being exact, I did the right side fork spring first. Simply remove the bars first. Cool thing is, the top clamps of the bar mounts stay put on your bars so you dont need to mark them and the clamp with a marker to see if you can get it all lined up again. BTW, I am running stock bars on the stock upper fork clamps. carefully fold the bars forward and let them roll naturally forward so they will stay put. But watch the bars and the speedo! they can scratch the plastic. I placed a shop cloth in between them. See.. I'm very anal. I lay out every tool close at hand to save running back and forth and all that waste of time bullshit
Anyway, I'm doing this so that anyone who might think of taking it to the shop because they are a little timid around a wrench can feel pretty safe that they can do this.
Remove the top cap slowly and keep downward pressure on it so it doesn't pop off at the end. It's not under crazy pressure so don't close your eyes and prepare for a projectile hunk of aluminum. I use two hands though, one to hold slightly down and turn the rachet and the other to just hold onto the cap on each side of the socket.
The spacer will naturally be sitting right there on top of the spring. Pull that out and set it on your seat with a shop cloth under it and the top cap to absorb the fork oil that drips off it. The special tool I used to reach down in and pull the spring was simply a part of a kit I bought at sears long ago that has an assortment of different little picks and awl type rigs with little screwdriver handes on them. They come in a cool little plastic case. I prefer the one that has a basic 90 degree bend in the end. They all end at a little needle point so don't prick your clumsy ass
get one hand with a shop rag at the top of the fork tube at the triple clamp and around the spring as you pull it out. This will catch the fork oil as it runs off the spring. Take that soft noodle spring and throw it right in the box your nice springy springs came in. Same goes for the stock spacer. Now take the new spring in hand, place the washer on top of it and thread the hanger widget thing and use your free hand to guide the bottom of the spring into the tube and slowly drop it down in. Throw in the new spacer and one thing of note. when you cut the spacer to match the length of the stock stuff you won't have the washer in that equation. Adding it adds just a wisker more preload, which I think is not a bad thing. We're talking like 2mm here. You will notice that it requires a touch more down pressure to start the threads of the cap back in to the fork tubes. Here is the only real part that you should be paying extra attention. The top cap is aluminum. The fork tubes are steel. Soft into hard, so very carefully make sure the threads don't start to cross. Cross bad. just go slow. I used the ratchet to turn it while I used my other hand to guide and kinda jiggle the cap to just help the whole thing. Just go slowly is the key. Maybe no jiggle, but there is a small amount of play as you go the first thread or two so I find it helps.
slow as you go and tighten it down and done. Repeat on the left.
put the bars back. SEAT THE FRONT OF THE BAR CLAMPS FIRST! Resonably tight and then tighten the back ones.
Oh yeah,
My bar risers are 34mm high. The front brake line is +3cm longer than stock. Got it all from TT. When you click on the risers it will tell you at the bottom of the description that you need to use p/n xxxxx to make it work. Major improvement. nice relaxed postition for seated and big ass bonus standing. No more crouch to stand.
Finito!
Next is the seat. It is pretty damn close to dirtbike flat. Comfy, and most of all, flat!
And to me, I'm trying not to go overboard on this project. Spending crazy money is not the idea here. Focused and easy, no brainer mod's for fit and basic protection is my goal. I'm not treating this bike like an off-road rallye weapon. The woods around here are just too over the top to safely ride this bike as referring to breaking it bad. And why the hell would you attempt to ride gnarly single track on a 400+ lb. dirt road bike in the first place. That is why I didn't go for YZ forks. I have a plated woods bike for the weeds and I can legally (in VT) connect with roads when I have to. But again, I am not in any way telling Swamp, et all that they're looney tunes. They have an agenda for their bikes and they look like they will kill it for their intended purpose. With just the addition of the Progressive fork springs the bike will take on most any class 4 town trail/jeep road with little issue. I rode some good ones totally stock with just some TKC 80's and it was "okay", but needed serious improvement. Disclaimer; I have NOT ridden it yet to back this up, but I can tell you, I have grown up riding woods on everythin g from $300 clapped out, frankensteined DT360's to trials bikes to my latest, $12,000 Husaberg. And I am not a slow guy. I'm more like a scalded cat
I swear that I am not boasting, just trying to let you guys know that I know Northeastern woods and the Sertao is not a bike to force into conquering them. Not what I ride anyway
I also got Long Distance foot pegs with the expanded rear from TT. The expanded rear works with normal feet for stock peg/shifter-brake relationship. Expanded front pegs fit the teeny feety folks.
I will definitely post complete pictures and parts list when I'm finished.
I aplogize for the douche bag post, but like I said, I just want all level of mechanic or not to see how simple it is.

MAKE SURE YOU FILE OFF THE LOOSE BUR STUFF ON THE SPACERS BEFORE YOU PUT THEM IN YOUR FORKS!!!!!
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Old 03-23-2013, 06:21 PM   #1732
kdennan
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And in my defense, You guys started it. I have the bug. This site has been so much fun to read and to talk with guys in Australia! Really a treat for this woodchuck Vermonter I must say. I am new to adv bikes, but know the motorcycle well. It's been my passion since I was a wee woodchucker. I think my info might best serve total noobs to the sport, looking to just get the best out of a great platform to start with.
Thanks ADV! Awesome site
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Old 03-23-2013, 07:12 PM   #1733
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Originally Posted by kdennan View Post
And in my defense, You guys started it. I have the bug. This site has been so much fun to read and to talk with guys in Australia! Really a treat for this woodchuck Vermonter I must say. I am new to adv bikes, but know the motorcycle well. It's been my passion since I was a wee woodchucker. I think my info might best serve total noobs to the sport, looking to just get the best out of a great platform to start with.
Thanks ADV! Awesome site
Kdennan,

Thanks for the reply! Awesome! Good information. Can't believe you went to such length to type it all up. A couple of followup questions: do you insert the progressives tight-wound end up or down? I imagine up. Is the PVC your idea for a spacers, or is it a common trick? I am just surprised it can withstand the pressure, the shocks, and possibly high temps (not sure how hot it gets there).

From what I read, the progressives are soft at the beginning of the stroke and get harder further into it. Really looking forward to a ride report.

Thank you very much for all this typing!

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Old 03-23-2013, 08:51 PM   #1734
swamp
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today it was mostly cloudy. it rained on me a little.
tested the bag in the rain, on some dirt roads and some steeper four wheeler trails. crossed a creek that had fallen trees in it. just hammered through it.





i used the back straps on the GL to lash down a RotoPax.
also added 2 more cinch straps to the lowers of the bag.
GL should have included these in their design. they really help keep it compressed on the sides.


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Old 03-24-2013, 03:59 AM   #1735
kdennan
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Originally Posted by windowto View Post
Kdennan,

Thanks for the reply! Awesome! Good information. Can't believe you went to such length to type it all up. A couple of followup questions: do you insert the progressives tight-wound end up or down? I imagine up. Is the PVC your idea for a spacers, or is it a common trick? I am just surprised it can withstand the pressure, the shocks, and possibly high temps (not sure how hot it gets there).

From what I read, the progressives are soft at the beginning of the stroke and get harder further into it. Really looking forward to a ride report.

Thank you very much for all this typing!
I followed the Progressive instructions and put the tighter wound ends down. I was under the same impression as you at first, but if I am correct in picturing the spring as it compresses, it actually is starting at the top of the fork. As the spring is compressed upwards from the bottom of the fork it progresses through the softer initial travel until it reaches the tighter wound section and thus reduces the bottoming effect. Schedule 40 pvc is burly stuff. Yes, it's the most common stuff I know of that garage mechanics use for spacer material. You can also use aluminum, but the pvc is at every hardware store, and cheap. I think I prefer the pvc because it's thicker than aluminum, so I feel more secure that it is seating properly or more completely on top of the washer and spring.
Thanks for the kudo's. The install of everything else should be pretty straight forward so I think I'll save you all from anymore rants
Stuff like the plastic headlight guard come with instructions from TT so it ought to be no big thing.
Just a couple of things that I put on right from the beginning last year that I'll list now before I forget.
BMW battery charger lead. I ran it out up front to the right just inside of the faux gas tank side panel between the right fork leg and the panel.
I have a Gerbings heated jacket liner so I ran it's lead down just under the edge of that same side panel to the rear under the front of the seat and then stuck it out from under the left front of the seat. I wear the control on my left pants waist so the wires hang out and connect right there.
Had the Wolfman side racks and the Expedition dry side bags from last year too. They mount up quickly and easily and the bags to me are perfect for what I need. I'm not ever going to take huge trips on this bike so I don't need more space and I like that if I have a get off I won't possibly crush a very expensive aluminum box that also can catch a tree if the going is tight. Soft bags seem to be great in keeping the lines of the bike clean. Hard cases stick out from the narrow little bike and almost look bigger than the bike!
I ran the Wolfman Enduro tank bag last year and it worked fine, but it is small. Too small. I was worried again that a bigger bag would not look so good on the wee sert, but I just got the Explorer Lite and it fits perfectly. Full size map pocket and it has a decent sized front quick access pocket for your smaller and frequently accessed bits like ear plugs, wallet, etc. I also got the rain cover for it.
One last thing. I got the Wolf bottle holster and Primus water bottle. It lashes easily to the Expedition saddle bags. I put mine on the front of the right bag.. Just my personal preference.
More to come
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:46 AM   #1736
fiep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp View Post
good info thanks, yea its that cup that i hate. i just want a dirt bike seat for it. ill probably buy one of the renazaco seats.
there you go:
ignore the dumb teddy and my beloved fur
underneath is a tall seat with a round contour
if you are old enough it may remind you of late 80s/early 90s Husky seats

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Old 03-24-2013, 12:53 PM   #1737
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Got it!

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Originally Posted by DesertDav View Post
Yep, I have to say to the comment a few posts back, I wasn't thinking of the 700 as an "in between" or compromise between the 650 and the 800. I've got the "inseam challenged" disease, so the 800, although I do love that Kalamata color, wasn't really a viable option for me. My mind was kinda just working in overdrive with too much logic, thinking hey for only a couple grand more, I get 50% more horses.
And as far as the Sert goes, it's almost a tippy-toer, too...maybe not quite as bad. Another dealer said he rode a sert for awhile and that you get used to that problem in about a week. NOT to sure how THAT works! lol
But the biggest theme of "buy it for what you're going to use it for" is the common thought, I think. Going back and forth to work 11 miles each way...I think G650GS is the one for me. I like how they're offering spoke rims on it now, so I can get that "in-between" of a G650GS and a SERT possibly without the tippy-tow syndrom that I'm afraid of. My last two bikes had 6 speeds so hopefully I'm not always lookin for 6th.
If that's my only problem with it, then happy day! YMMV?
Thanks again for all the valuable insight, and I'll let you know what I get when I get it.
Went to the dealer last night. He had a used Sert for me to test, so that was cool. But it was too high for me. Didn't even bother trying the 700/800. I wanted a thumper and that's what I got, G650GS, normal seat. Took her out this morning and all was good.
Thanks for all your info. One more question...eventually it's going fire-roading. You guys have a recommendation for a tire that's not too tame, but is still good for commuting? Also, if I get spoke rims at the next tire change, am I better off just getting BMW or is there cheaper but better rims out there for her? AND am I still welcome here or is there a G650GS specific owner's thread for me (wouldn't wanna step on any hardcore toes here). ;-)
Thanks again!
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:57 PM   #1738
swamp
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sure man just stick around here with us!

as far as spoked rims go , there are a few options.
just depends how much $$ you want to spend and what your intended use is.

buy bmw or get them superlaced to excels by woodies wheel works.

just depends on what you want out of your bike

congrats on the new bike !
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:49 PM   #1739
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Why leave, hang out. You still have the same bike with some differences. Oh and congrats.. you picked a great bike.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:18 PM   #1740
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But it was too high for me. Didn't even bother trying the 700/800. I wanted a thumper and that's what I got, G650GS, normal seat.
I went to the Tokyo Motorcycle Show with my son yesterday and I had a chance to finally sit on a Sert. I gotta say that my 30" inseam is really stretchin' it for this bike. I'm comfortably on my tiptoes with the stock seat, but the scoop is not workin' for this kid. Which means that the high seat is a must. Not sure how well that'll work out.

All that said, I really liked how the bike felt with the notable exception of those rinky-dink little footpegs. WTH? Something wider would need to be bolted on ASAP before I'd feel happy standing up.
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