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Old 05-16-2013, 08:36 PM   #2461
alprosound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alskee750 View Post
Throwing it out there but take a look at ricor intimidators. I have a set, not yet installed but it sounds very promising besides the whole fork conversion. Just a thought.
I have a set of intimidators in my DR650 and I am very happy with them. Of course compared to stock some curtain rod would have been better...

The Intimidators are better for the road and emulators are better for off road technical stuff. My DRz has emulators and they too are awesome and I think a good choice for the lighter peppier bike. I'm happy with my Intimidators. it was a good choice.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:25 PM   #2462
nylon2000
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OK, with the cool sound track removed... :(

Oaklahoma, tearing it up on quads, after the sand was too deep for my slick TKCs: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8eEp...ature=youtu.be

Colorado, off the TAT "exploring" and falling: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0E2hGSkTAhE


Questions for y'all, again:

When i get to Vancouver I'll change the brake pads, chain, sprockets. I have a new chain at home, any special brake pads, or do you use the OEM ones?

and for sprockets, how many teeth should i change front and back? I'd like it to be better at slow speeds, and will unlikely be going over 50-60mph in asia, so can spare a few.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:30 PM   #2463
Desertbilly
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Location: Scottsdale, Arizona, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windowto View Post
I think you meant the "left" side;).
I'm laughing at myself on this one. When I got the bike a couple of months ago, I looked for an accessory socket and couldn't find it, so I assumed BMW had de-contented it to reduce costs. I asked my dealership to put the socket on at the 600 service, and they put a socket on the handlebar, between the riser tops. It doesn't look great, but it's a very convenient location.

I should have read the f-ing manual!
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Old 05-17-2013, 03:09 AM   #2464
Trane Francks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nylon2000 View Post
Colorado, off the TAT "exploring" and falling: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0E2hGSkTAhE
Sweet. I wouldn't say you looked like a noob. Then again, I've crashed more times than I care to remember.

Quote:
and for sprockets, how many teeth should i change front and back? I'd like it to be better at slow speeds, and will unlikely be going over 50-60mph in asia, so can spare a few.
I generally wouldn't go down more than 1 tooth on the front. Two teeth will work, but at the expense of reduced life of both sprocket and chain. If you're going to be doing low speeds, probably 1 tooth down on the front and 2 teeth up on back would be good, going by the numbers.
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:00 AM   #2465
windowto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nylon2000 View Post
Colorado, off the TAT "exploring" and falling: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0E2hGSkTAhE
.
Come on, this ain't no falling. This slow motion ungraceful descent to the ground has something to do with this bike's high center of gravity. It's like it doesn't want to stay upright. I had a much more embarrassing descent, on paved surface. Just after hard braking with the front fork compressed, I put my foot down while stopped with a slight lean. When the fork extended again, I did not have enough ground reach (I guess my foot was a little too far from the bike) and wound up going down in slow motion, like in your video. And I am 6 foot tall. My wife on the back seat was very surprised to find herself on the ground .

On another note: I test drove an F700, which is a heavier bike and it felt like it was much easier to keep it upright. I read of some similar experiences in the Dakar thread. I was really impressed though how you picked up the bike, seemingly effortlessly, with all that stuff on it.

Seems like you are having a great time.

Thanks for sharing!

windowto screwed with this post 05-17-2013 at 10:00 AM
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:03 PM   #2466
alprosound
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Remus Exhaust

Anyone here running the Remus Exhaust? I realize the Leo Vince is popular. Just curious if anyone has gone with the Remus or Arrow. (not sure if the arrow can be purchased in the US)
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06 Triumph Tiger
Suzuki DR650SE
Yamaha XT350
Suzuki DR 200
Yamaha TTR
Yamaha RT
Suzuki JR 80 and JR50

“Success is not final, failure is not fatal: it is the courage to continue that counts.” - Winston Churchill

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Old 05-18-2013, 05:37 PM   #2467
kdennan
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Just had an awesome (albiet, short) trip with my buddy. Rode from my house in Winhall, VT on dirt and back roads all the way to Mt. Washington and back! Amazing weather!
We covered so much ground and hit some crazy ass roads. Camped at Dolly Copp, just down from Tuckerman's Ravine trail head and then headed south first, before heading west back into VT. Jeep trails, bridges out with river crossings, snowmobile trails, mtn passes, twisties, everything!
My bike is perfect! Fork springs, bar risers, pipe, tires, footpegs, wolfman bags. Everything performed flawlessy as I flogged the shit out of it for 600+ miles.
I sat down with my two gazetteer's and my laptop with Garmin Basecamp and linked up every skinny line and dotted line with just a few state highway transfers and then sent it to my Edge gps (cycling model). I then made two route sheets (one north route and one home route) so that if I made a mistake with my mapping we had a back up.
I can't wait to do that same trip again.
It's a perfect Sertao route. My buddy has the F800 and he did just great, but he said it was a bit of a handful in a few sections for sure. I just don't think that extra power is needed around here. Sure, if you want to bomb the state routes, fine, but the little 650 owns the tight dirt roads and town trails.

But, I do have a problem......
Back this spring when I got the bike out and started riding I came home one time and washed the bike and noticed that look of dirt residue that clings to oil on an engine case type of look, just below the water pump. I thought immediately of the stories of the water pump seal leaking on the older bikes so I called Max and they took it in and said that it did indeed need a new seal. No biggie (I guess)
The bike came back totally clean so that dirty wet spot was gone.
Well, it's back today
I remember reading that some guys could never get it to stop. Is this still really going to be an issue?
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:46 PM   #2468
nylon2000
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Bit of a nooblet question, but hoping one of you can help me out:

My brake cable, with the barkbusters and risers is too tight, and when i fell once my brake cable came loose and when i squeezed the front brake, fluid dribbled out from the banjo bolt, which connects to the reservoir. I tightened it, but lost a few squeezes of fluid before i realized. i then bled the system. Now, the brake lever has to be pulled more before it engages. I can still engage fully and activate the abs, but i have to pull it a lot further. I'd like to adjust it so i dont need to pull it as far for it to engage fully, can i do that by putting more brake fluid in the reservoir?

Its important for me to change the "bite point" as i brake with 2 fingers, and now to get it to bite i need to pull it basically flush to the hand grips.

???

Thanks
NY-lon

PS. Am in Flagstaff, about to head to Utah, and then the CD this week.
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:36 PM   #2469
swamp
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Location: lower appalachia, Alabama
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Nylon

how tall are your risers ?

when your forks extend fully does your brake cable run out of slack and jerk on your master? i know you have been doing a lot of off-road so thats why im asking.



----
you say your line loosened from your master cylinder and DOT4 dribbled out.
you say you bled the line... did you bleed the line without replacing the DOT4 ? if so you probably have very little fluid left or have a large air bubble up-in-yo-shit.

yea man go buy some brake fluid from auto zone , fill your master cylinder up (leave the cap off) and bleed the brakes (a vacuum pump helps).. but dont let the cylinder run dry. i dont know if you know how to bleed brakes or not (im just trying to help). if not just let us know and we'll go over that.
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:43 PM   #2470
swamp
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Location: lower appalachia, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdennan View Post
I remember reading that some guys could never get it to stop. Is this still really going to be an issue?

strange.
how many miles are on your bike Kdennan ?

anyone else having this problemo ?
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:04 PM   #2471
nylon2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp View Post
how tall are your risers ?

when your forks extend fully does your brake cable run out of slack and jerk on your master? i know you have been doing a lot of off-road so thats why im asking.



----
you say your line loosened from your master cylinder and DOT4 dribbled out.
you say you bled the line... did you bleed the line without replacing the DOT4 ? if so you probably have very little fluid left or have a large air bubble up-in-yo-shit.

yea man go buy some brake fluid from auto zone , fill your master cylinder up (leave the cap off) and bleed the brakes (a vacuum pump helps).. but dont let the cylinder run dry. i dont know if you know how to bleed brakes or not (im just trying to help). if not just let us know and we'll go over that.
Thanks Swamp. No offense taken, i'm not a mechanically minded guy!

So, the risers are the smallest ones (25mm?). The issue will be corrected with the longer brake line, so i'll order one of those.

In the interim, here's what I did:

- Bled the brakes a bit: 2 squeezes/opening of the bolt near the axle. there were no obvious bubbles in it, so i tightened it up.
- Given the way the fluid leaked in the first place - banjo bolt loosening, i dont think air got back in the system. This is the second time this has happened, and the last one was before the 6k mile service, so was fixed when i asked them to flush the fluids.
- Because i didnt flush a lot of fluid or lose a lot when it leaked (1-2 table spoons in total?), the lever is still half way in the circle, so its still above min.

PS. It was mushier right after it leaked, its a bit better now, but not tight enough.

So...maybe there's still some air in the system? and that changes the bite point? or the lower level of fluid changes the bite point (seems unlikely)?
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Old 05-20-2013, 02:04 AM   #2472
kdennan
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Location: Vermont, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp View Post
strange.
how many miles are on your bike Kdennan ?

anyone else having this problemo ?

Only just over 6k
I read it used to happen allot, but supposedly the problem was fixed.
Not happy about this
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:34 AM   #2473
SwollenCranium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nylon2000 View Post
So...maybe there's still some air in the system? and that changes the bite point? or the lower level of fluid changes the bite point (seems unlikely)?

Sounds like air to me. I've had bikes that were nearly impossible to bleed (front brake) unless I did a reverse bleeding by forcing fluid UP the line rather than down.

I drained my front brake on the Sertao last month because it was feeling off and it took nearly 3/4 quart of DOT to get the lever feel back to the right place using the traditional method of brake bleeding.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:45 AM   #2474
Bronson1
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brakes

Nylon it sure sounds like air in the system to me. I'd bleed them again till it feels right.
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:24 AM   #2475
windowto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nylon2000 View Post
Bit of a nooblet question, but hoping one of you can help me out:

My brake cable, with the barkbusters and risers is too tight, and when i fell once my brake cable came loose and when i squeezed the front brake, fluid dribbled out from the banjo bolt, which connects to the reservoir. I tightened it, but lost a few squeezes of fluid before i realized. i then bled the system. Now, the brake lever has to be pulled more before it engages. I can still engage fully and activate the abs, but i have to pull it a lot further. I'd like to adjust it so i dont need to pull it as far for it to engage fully, can i do that by putting more brake fluid in the reservoir?

Its important for me to change the "bite point" as i brake with 2 fingers, and now to get it to bite i need to pull it basically flush to the hand grips.

???

Thanks
NY-lon

PS. Am in Flagstaff, about to head to Utah, and then the CD this week.
Nylon,

Yes, it is air in the system, but you also need to bleed the master cylinder itself. There is a bleed screw inside the reservoir. You need to make sure that the level of the fluid is never below that screw, while you are bleeding. The process is similar to bleeding the line, but now you are bleeding the cylinder. Both the lines AND the cylinder need to be bled. Obviously, you will need to add fluid. Also, when bleeding the line, it is not enough to see that there is no bubbles. You want to make sure that the entire length of the line from the lever to the wheel has been purged, this is because, in your case, the air entered at the top. Below is a procedure to bleed the master cylinder from the BMW maintenance DVD.

Slightly open bleed screw (1).
Continue using the brake lever to bleed the brake system until air ceases to rise.
Close bleed screw (1).

Good luck

windowto screwed with this post 05-20-2013 at 06:36 AM
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