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Old 06-19-2013, 06:34 PM   #2746
swamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alskee750 View Post
Swamp because we're wimps! I gave Nylon the idea but he beat me to it.. Of course Nylon has many more miles to cover than me, but I have a total of about 1800 miles to cover and I leave in 19 days when I head west to conquer the TAT. Pic's to follow not sure about a write up but maybe. NYC to OK, then TAT all the way to End of Utah that's all the time I have from work & Family.

As for me I like comfort for the long haul espeacially if I'm going to be on the interstate for 8 or more hours a day.

Swamp, when do you leave for round 2?
I was just messing with you guys . Im so damn short I probably couldn't reach the highway pegs alskee please do post some sertao tat pics and thoughts round2 will likely begin sometime in January or February. It all depends on the wife at this point.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:02 PM   #2747
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Opinions on Centerstands

Howdy. New to ADVrider. Old to riding. Picked up a new Sertao last week while I completely rebuild my '86 R80G/S PD. Wondering about the pros and cons of the Touratech CS versus the Motech CS. What do those of you who have one think about them?
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:30 PM   #2748
swamp
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I have the tt one . Works good . Fits good .
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:00 AM   #2749
kantuckid
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Originally Posted by SwollenCranium View Post
I'd say its a little too late for any do over since it appears the bike is now in a shipping container.

You guys are gonna make him twitch in his sleep for days thinking about all this gloom and doom.
I'm not aiming to be a troublemaker just getting good info on the web for others to know whats right
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:34 AM   #2750
nylon2000
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Lol.

Alskee - bolt the pegs on. It's real comfy.

Swamp - I removed the passenger pegs, so technically I still have 4

Window - fml. It's done now. And I got the bike out and rode it across Korea. Not sure how else I'm supposed to strap it down. If I don't compress the suspension it'll wobble too much.

And as for the chain / surely it'll just stretch to the desired amount?

Currently when I twist the handlebar thingy, the bike moves. So it seems fine.
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:29 AM   #2751
tempered_lobster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nylon2000 View Post
Lol.

Alskee - bolt the pegs on. It's real comfy.

Swamp - I removed the passenger pegs, so technically I still have 4

Window - fml. It's done now. And I got the bike out and rode it across Korea. Not sure how else I'm supposed to strap it down. If I don't compress the suspension it'll wobble too much.

And as for the chain / surely it'll just stretch to the desired amount?

Currently when I twist the handlebar thingy, the bike moves. So it seems fine.
But does twisting the handlebar thingy more make it go faster? Haven't tried that yet with mine.

Absolutely no problem with compressing suspension to strap a bike down. The only time it could cause an issue is if the shocks / forks are knacked and can cause oil to leak out.
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:53 AM   #2752
windowto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tempered_lobster View Post

absolutely no problem with compressing suspension to strap a bike down. The only time it could cause an issue is if the shocks / forks are knacked and can cause oil to leak out.
+1
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:03 PM   #2753
swamp
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Yep . BMW ships their bikes crated to their dealers. The bikes are tied down with the forks compressed when they arrive at the dealerships.
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:05 PM   #2754
swamp
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nylon, I was wondering if you were going to bring up the rear footpeg removal! nice
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:16 PM   #2755
giganova
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Battery Connection Point

I want to add some electrical components (fog lights, GPS navi, USB charger) and was wondering whether the right way is to connect everything to the battery connection point. A few questions:
  • What screw is the battery connection point? Metric?
  • The battery connection point goes straight to the battery, with no fuse between, correct?
  • Is it only powered in the "ignition ON" state or always powered?
  • My plan is to connect all electrical gear through a fuse block to the battery. Instead of connecting the battery connection point to the rather expensive Fuze Box from Twisted Throttle ($115.-), couldn't I just use a much cheaper 6-way fuse block that is often used in automotive/marine applications, like this one ($20, on Ebay for around $10)?

Thanks!
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:23 AM   #2756
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Eek Adding fuses

Quote:
Originally Posted by giganova View Post
I want to add some electrical components (fog lights, GPS navi, USB charger) and was wondering whether the right way is to connect everything to the battery connection point. A few questions:
  • What screw is the battery connection point? Metric?
  • The battery connection point goes straight to the battery, with no fuse between, correct?
  • Is it only powered in the "ignition ON" state or always powered?
  • My plan is to connect all electrical gear through a fuse block to the battery. Instead of connecting the battery connection point to the rather expensive Fuze Box from Twisted Throttle ($115.-), couldn't I just use a much cheaper 6-way fuse block that is often used in automotive/marine applications, like this one ($20, on Ebay for around $10)?

Thanks!
I haven't checked, but it is likely a M6 screw and I would bet that it is not switched but tied directly to the battery (doesn't turn off with the key).
Also, Google "Marine Fuse Block". There are many choices but I'd pick one that uses the same style fuses as the bike rather than the glass SAE fuses and has a good cover.
I'll check my wiring diagram later for the best point to tie into switched power if that is what you want to do.
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:41 AM   #2757
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Thanks for your reply. I think I'm getting a Centech AP-1 fuse panel since many GS riders on this forum seem to be using it.

Would be great if you (or someone else) can tell me the best point to tie into switched "ignition ON" power.
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:42 PM   #2758
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Eek

Quote:
Originally Posted by giganova View Post
Thanks for your reply. I think I'm getting a Centech AP-1 fuse panel since many GS riders on this forum seem to be using it.

Would be great if you (or someone else) can tell me the best point to tie into switched "ignition ON" power.
Well, my brand new DVD service manual seems to be lacking a wiring diagram (if anyone knows if it exists on the DVD please let me know where). So, I would recommend the following:

1) Get a 12VDC relay with contacts rated at least 20A DC.
2) Connect the - side of the relay coil to battery ground.
3) Connect the + side of the relay coil to either the tail light "ON" lead (not the brake light lead) or the running light lead in the headlight. The tail light connection is probably easier to find. You'll have to splice into the wire.
4) Connect the Normally Open (NO) contact on the relay to the battery +. Connect the Common (C) contact to your fuse block. Don't wrap the wires around the battery terminals: do it right with the correct ring lugs. Also, you should run #14 stranded wire.

When you turn on the ignition, the tail light will go on and energize the relay and your fuse block.
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:05 PM   #2759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motopsychoman View Post
Well, my brand new DVD service manual seems to be lacking a wiring diagram (if anyone knows if it exists on the DVD please let me know where). So, I would recommend the following:

1) Get a 12VDC relay with contacts rated at least 20A DC.
2) Connect the - side of the relay coil to battery ground.
3) Connect the + side of the relay coil to either the tail light "ON" lead (not the brake light lead) or the running light lead in the headlight. The tail light connection is probably easier to find. You'll have to splice into the wire.
4) Connect the Normally Open (NO) contact on the relay to the battery +. Connect the Common (C) contact to your fuse block. Don't wrap the wires around the battery terminals: do it right with the correct ring lugs. Also, you should run #14 stranded wire.

When you turn on the ignition, the tail light will go on and energize the relay and your fuse block.
I totally agree with this suggestion, if you are going to run a lot of stuff. A good place to splice into the tail harness is just behind the tail harness connector. The connector is located front right under the seat (or just aft of the fox tank, on the right side). The tail harness runs from the tail light assembly along the left side of the frame member and crosses over to the right about mid-seat location, and then it connects to the main harness at right front seat location. If you are to connect a small load item (I have LED topbox lights on it), you can just connect your stuff to the harness there by splicing. But, if you going to put a substantial load, you should wire a relay, as suggested above.

Good luck

windowto screwed with this post 06-22-2013 at 09:04 AM
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Old 06-22-2013, 03:23 PM   #2760
giganova
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Battery "boiled over"!

My almost-new (450 miles) Sertao wouldn't start yesterday, all sorts of strange error messages on the dash when I turned the ignition key on, and nothing happened when I tried to fire up the engine. Had it towed to the BMW dealer who told me that the battery had "boiled over" and the acid destroyed parts of the electronics! Luckily, there's no other visible damage. The dealer replaced the battery and electronics under warranty.

I've read on this forum that the stock batteries are crap, but how could this happen? Never dropped the bike, never rode it too hard, temperatures in the 80s and the fan only occasionally kicked in. How can a battery "boil over"?

What's your suggestion -- shall I get a Scorpion YT12CL so it won't happen again?

Cheers!
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