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Old 07-12-2013, 08:51 PM   #3046
bcinkc
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Very true, but if there are worn friction plates, the pressure would be lower than spec. Weak spring pressure will cause the clutch to slip even more. Adding a single washer onto each of those springs may provide a stop-loss to the damage that is being done by insufficient force. The force may be greater at the lever, or may be approximately the same as before, depending on the damage already done. In the normal run of things one would just replace the clutch pack altogether and ride on. However, waiting in Mongolia for three weeks while the parts are still being whittled somewhere thousands of miles away isn't really the normal run of things.
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:52 PM   #3047
Trane Francks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motopsychoman View Post
Adding washers is one way to compensate for overall plate wear but unfortunately friction plates rarely wear out evenly. Usually one or two get very thin while the others are almost new.
If doing a sandpaper-to-roughen surfaces, last-ditch effort to get moving again, it might be helpful to reassemble the clutch 'reversing' the plates in order of wear, i.e., replacing the least worn bits with the most worn and vice versa. Generally speaking, though, once you've glazed your plates, you're pretty much due for replacement over the long haul.
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:30 PM   #3048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcinkc View Post
... force may be greater at the lever, or may be approximately the same as before, depending on the damage already done. .


"mmm.. yes. approximate is the force with you. always in motion is the future"


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Old 07-12-2013, 09:30 PM   #3049
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:49 PM   #3050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcinkc View Post
Very true, but if there are worn friction plates, the pressure would be lower than spec. Weak spring pressure will cause the clutch to slip even more. Adding a single washer onto each of those springs may provide a stop-loss to the damage that is being done by insufficient force. The force may be greater at the lever, or may be approximately the same as before, depending on the damage already done. In the normal run of things one would just replace the clutch pack altogether and ride on. However, waiting in Mongolia for three weeks while the parts are still being whittled somewhere thousands of miles away isn't really the normal run of things.
Missed something. You would not add washers like #19, but you would add very skinny washers with OD and ID about the same as the springs. Add them at the bottom of each spring. Adding another washer the size of #19 under the bolt does nothing.
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Old 07-13-2013, 05:40 AM   #3051
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Originally Posted by Motopsychoman View Post
Missed something. You would not add washers like #19, but you would add very skinny washers with OD and ID about the same as the springs. Add them at the bottom of each spring. Adding another washer the size of #19 under the bolt does nothing.
Correct. Adding washers does NOTHING. Parts 2 and 17 are bolted tightly together with a bolt and one washer. Another washer does not help. You either need to increase the thickness of that pile of plates and friction plates or decrease the height of the clutch basket. (not an easy option.)

In the future, makes sure you always have play at your clutch handle. Make sure your clutch cable is not too tight. If it's too tight it is like slipping your clutch at all times. That's about the only way to burn up a clutch on one of these bikes.

As Moto says,"but you could add very skinny washers with OD and ID of the clutch springs thereby increasing spring tension." That OD and ID is the important thing with this method. Good luck.
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Old 07-13-2013, 05:59 AM   #3052
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It might be a sign of my unwillingness to do BDAR unless absolutely life dependent but I'm thinking why try and Jerry rig it if you are in a comfortable place, and are not in danger?


Looks like all the options above, except replace with new, will leave him stranded again at some point and the next "some point" might be in a place less suited for not getting dead.

I'm not totally risk adverse but ...
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Old 07-13-2013, 07:50 AM   #3053
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Petrol/gasoline and sandpaper seem to be cleaning them up nicely, will put it all together tomorrow and see if it rides. And, yes, i'll order new plates, but with a 2-4 week delivery estimate, i'm going to try to get them shipped further along.

Thanks for your help so far!
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Old 07-13-2013, 07:53 AM   #3054
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PS. So unimpressed with BMW dealership service in this - i tried germany, usa, and the uk.

That said, the support from ADV, HUBB, and the bikers here has been awesome.
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Old 07-13-2013, 08:51 AM   #3055
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PS. So unimpressed with BMW dealership service in this - i tried germany, usa, and the uk.

That said, the support from ADV, HUBB, and the bikers here has been awesome.
You would think that BMW would be the obvious choice to go with for a bike based on world wide dealer support.
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:05 AM   #3056
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One thing to remember with G Series engine part numbers is that there is likely to be a difference in royalties payable to Rotax between F Series and G Series and hence the need for a different part number

The clutch plates could well be the same parts as the F Series but that is masked in the parts system by the different numbers. A quick measurement and a pic could provide answers and posting over at f650 is bound to get some one with old plates able to measure them up. There may even be people over there with plates on the shelf, you would need the dual spark steel plates, fibre plates are the same single and dual spark
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:06 AM   #3057
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Originally Posted by kdennan View Post
You would think that BMW would be the obvious choice to go with for a bike based on world wide dealer support.
Three words....K....L....R

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Old 07-13-2013, 09:19 AM   #3058
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Sorry, new subject for a moment,
Checking out lighting options from Twisted Throttle.
One kit, the Denali D1 for example, draws 10watts per lamp (2). Is that safe for our stock capacity, taking into allowance for the heated grips and my heated jacket?
And a GPS?
I'm a total noob savant with electrical
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Old 07-13-2013, 01:14 PM   #3059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdennan View Post
Sorry, new subject for a moment,
Checking out lighting options from Twisted Throttle.
One kit, the Denali D1 for example, draws 10watts per lamp (2). Is that safe for our stock capacity, taking into allowance for the heated grips and my heated jacket?
And a GPS?
I'm a total noob savant with electrical
20W total is no problem. 200W would be a big problem. Anyone taken an ammeter and measured the current running with lights and grips on low? should try that but not at the present time.
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Old 07-13-2013, 01:36 PM   #3060
kdennan
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Originally Posted by Motopsychoman View Post
20W total is no problem. 200W would be a big problem. Anyone taken an ammeter and measured the current running with lights and grips on low? should try that but not at the present time.
Great, Thanks
I kinda thought so but I'm nervous about electric's.
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