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Old 01-04-2012, 01:33 PM   #31
mark883 OP
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Well, I've made a decision what to do with the gear...

My coworker has a son who has his own little machine shop and does some die repair. He didn't think a thin washer would be the optimum solution, so he proposed to TIG weld to fill in the divot made by the bearing, then machine it down to the finished tolerances. A stainless rod would give a harder surface, along with welding drawing some carbon to the surface. He commented that the gear itself was rather soft steel.

He can weld paperclips, so I think he can handle this.

We shall see what happens, but it sounds like a good idea.
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Old 01-04-2012, 02:11 PM   #32
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Fascinating!
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:58 AM   #33
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Hmmm. A refurb transmission is only $3100 from BMW!

What a deal, I might need to look into that.
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Old 01-10-2012, 09:09 AM   #34
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After reading through this thread, my opinion of the design and engineering on late model BMW's has really gone downhill.
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Old 01-10-2012, 09:33 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by lemieuxmc View Post
After reading through this thread, my opinion of the design and engineering on late model BMW's has really gone downhill.
Whereas old model BMWs only had design and engineering issues with things such as shift pawl return springs, missing circlips, speedo drive boots that let water into transmission, stretching valves, failing valve seats, leaky oil pans, cracked coils, failing rotors, etc. (I could go on)
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:29 PM   #36
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$ vs $$$$
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:13 AM   #37
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Next episode: Third gear. Should I worry about it?
That's the gear that was popping out? Why do gears pop out, are the dogs not holding them strongly enough in place? My refurbed black trans pops out of 2nd gear too often for my pleasure, and I'm wondering what to do about it.
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:54 AM   #38
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Hmmm. A refurb transmission is only $3100 from BMW!

What a deal, I might need to look into that.
You can always check www.beemerboneyard.com for a used gearbox.

Or check this new input shaft for $350. link

Or a low-mile used gearbox from here.


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Old 01-11-2012, 11:16 AM   #39
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Actually, Poolside, I've traced all my shifting problems to this funny looking wire-thermostat-ICE-thingy I stuck on my airbox. I'll be taking this up with your legal department shortly.





Don't worry guys, I may be a BMW owner, but I'm not dumb (rich?) enough to spend $3000 on a gearbox. We'll see how my machinist buddy does filling in the worn gear, and machining it back to specs. That, and a new bearing should get me in good shape, for less than any of the alternatives (other than just not worrying about it).

Regarding third gear, the 2-3 shift has always been 'crunchy' unless everything astral lines up properly. (They all do that!) Can't say that I'd blame this input shaft, but looking at the other gear shafts (output & intermediate) it appears as if all the gears (dogs) are back-cut from the factory except 3rd. I don't get shift skip like the M94/M95s do, but I have got complete pop-outs or false neturals.

My shift forks appear to be ok as well.

So after I get done worrying about the input shaft, we may well have another worry-fest here about 3rd gear.

Stay tuned! We're having a remarkably warm January in NW Ohio, and my bike is in pieces! Global warming- its my fault!
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:18 AM   #40
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That's the gear that was popping out? Why do gears pop out, are the dogs not holding them strongly enough in place? My refurbed black trans pops out of 2nd gear too often for my pleasure, and I'm wondering what to do about it.
He's working with the bevel-cut gear on the input shaft. The input shaft has a integrated 'cush drive', in the form of a spring-loaded ramp mechanism. The ramp mechanism allows the input gear to rotate a little on the input shaft, a few degrees in both directions. A few degrees that is until the slope of the spring-loaded ramp becomes too seep to climb.

The wear on the surfaces of the shaft bearing and gear (shown in the pictures) is at the interface between the bearing and gear. The wear is from the cush drive's back-and-forth rotational movement of the gear against the inner stationary bearing race.

As the interface between the input gear and bearing continues to wear, the clearances between the cush drive parts on the shaft increases. The increased clearance lowers the spring tension on the ramp of the cush drive, which then allows more gear movement. As cush drive clearance increases, wear between the input gear and bearing increases exponentially.

Eventually, gear wear against the inner bearing race removes enough material that the gear teeth make contact with the outer bearing race. (shown in the pictures) At that point the cush drive ramp is only lightly loaded, and the input gear rotates back and forth almost without effort.

A machined/hardened/ground thrust washer would fix that. Use a tough-surfaced material for the washer, maybe a hardened S2 steel, and polish the flats.


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Poolside screwed with this post 01-11-2012 at 11:35 AM
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:22 AM   #41
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Actually, Poolside, I've traced all my shifting problems to this funny looking wire-thermostat-ICE-thingy I stuck on my airbox. I'll be taking this up with your legal department shortly.





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Old 01-11-2012, 11:59 AM   #42
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I'm pretty sure it could be machined locally, I know a couple guys. Does the 'washer' need to be anything special metallurigally speaking?
Or instead of a decent tool steel for the washer, and since you're buying another bearing anyway, just grind down the old inner race to serve as a thrust washer. A magnetic-table surface grinder will make short work of it.


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Old 01-11-2012, 01:14 PM   #43
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Don'tcha think that's the kind of thing that the Bavarian elves in the engineering department might have figured out before you had to do it?

It's not like this is their first effort at building a transmission.
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:49 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by lemieuxmc View Post
Don'tcha think that's the kind of thing that the Bavarian elves in the engineering department might have figured out before you had to do it?

It's not like this is their first effort at building a transmission.
It's some where on the continuum between 'good enough' and 'never fail'.

We all want to pay for 'good enough' and get 'never fail'.
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Old 01-11-2012, 02:03 PM   #45
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The price point on a Hyosung is "good enough", the price point on a BMW is somewhere above that (even though the parts may very well come from the same factory).

I don't get too upset when I break a HF tool by torquing it with my bare hands, but if I had paid for a Snap On wrench, I might be tempted to put it up someones rectal orifice.

The difference in value between a 1977 BMW and a 2012 BMW is roughly akin to the difference between a 1957 Thunderbird and a 1977 Thunderbird.
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