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Old 02-05-2006, 09:22 PM   #31
WageSlave
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I've just added photos of the installation to my earlier posting.
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Old 02-06-2006, 12:13 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRobinson
I've just added photos of the installation to my earlier posting.
Very nice job, I just ordered up everything due to how clean yours came out. I still havnt decided if I want to wire up a override switch or not, so I can turn the fans on at will....
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Old 02-06-2006, 01:40 AM   #33
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Wicked

Cause I am an absolute tight arse I bent up a bit of 40thou T3 alclad into a U, cut a hole in the middle and bought a $8 computer case fan and bolted it in - it is only 2 amps but moves enough air to make a considerable difference. Just hooked (spliced the wires into the loom from the thermostate (on the RHS radiator) to the standard fan) works just like KTM meant it to. Will have photies soon. Well when I next pull the tank off.

Besides if it dies its only 8 bucks from Tandy to replace it.

Here are the details finally.

Stock fan





New cheap computer fan



Fan mount made out of 20 thou aircraft alclad.

Bit rough still not finished up.

Stock fan mounted.




Second fan mounted



Closer view of secondary fan.



Used some 6g 10 mm allen head bolts with nylock nuts to hold in place. A bit of imersion rubber under the edges of the bracket to stop chaffing and a few of the little stick on cupboard door stopper pimples on the front of the fan case to stop it chaffing on the radiator core.

All for under $15 for bits.



I am now adding some additional information about my wiring of the second fan at the request of inmates.

Since first wiring up the fan I have since modified the system further and will add that bit last.


I said I just spliced into the main fan loom I did this by tracing the sensor wires from the thermostate in the lower edge of the right hand radiator




that goes to this plug



on the way to the original fan on the other side of the bike.

This loom is what takes power from the theromstat (temperature switch) to the fan to make it run. This is the wiring you need to acces to make the second fan run on the thermostate like the stock one.

I cannot recall how I actually tapped into the loom but there are three basic ways (and I am to slack to un-shrink wrap it all and find out).

1) Strip some insulation off and twitch (yuck) solder (prefer) the new fan wires to the original wiring. Not real sophisticated and quite a nasty way of doing it but it works.

Some may use a clip/cramp jumper connection that "bites" through the insualtion to make a connection but these usually don't work well on thin wires, are very nasty and prone to make wiring break at a later date.

2) Carefully push the pins out of the terminal block/plug on the thermostat half of the plug, join the new wires into the old wires and re-insert pins back into the plug.

3) Pretty much the same as above but tap into the plug that connects onto the thermostat at the radiator.

When hooking up the wiring for the secondary fan remember polarity of the new fan, it will run either way but only one way is the correct way for the blades to produce maximum airflow.



Now as an aside I also changed the original thermostat (part number 58435045098) which switches the fan on at 98C to an earlier model one (part number 58035045000) and still used on the 660 Rallye that operates at 85C. This made quite a difference in that it took MUCH longer for the temp to start to rise than previously, when stuck in traffic on very hot days.



The new thermostat does not screw straight into the fitting on the radiator as I had been advised, it is a much smaller sized one than the original.


I sourced a threaded brass plumbing fitting which was a blanking plug that did screw into the radiator, then drilled and tapped the fitting to screw the therostat into. The new thermostat also had pins for spade connections not the plug connector of teh original one. I just cut the plug of the loom that went onto the thermostat and changed it over to spade connectors, thats why I don't have a plug on the thermostat.


Been working with out drama for years now and teh fan still going, I got one with ceramic bearings fitted to try to get a more durable one.


I am considering changing the fan (not because I need to but am a compulsive tinkerer) to one of a Duke 1 or LC4 620, it is quite a bit smaller that the 640 fan and come from wreckers pretty cheap.


This isn't a how to but a guide to how the wiring works.

The Misinformant screwed with this post 02-16-2010 at 09:56 PM Reason: Updated details.
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:05 AM   #34
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Nice job Mr. Robinson

I think there is a wiring diagram for the switch about - I hope it's indexed; or in this thread...

I am guessing that these OEM fans are really stout, but if you are not going to the ends of the earth then perhaps the Tandy fan is fine. I don't think the OEM fan is that much by itself; lemme check:


Part Number 58435041000
Description FAN CPL. 12V LC4 2000
Catalog Page COOLING SYSTEM 640 LC4
Price $88.25

(cough) ah, nevermind...
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Old 02-06-2006, 10:24 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CountPacMan
Now, it looks really nice, but there's only one plug for the fan, and now I have two of them. Easiest solution was to chop the plug off one of the fans (I chopped the old, small version as it has really thin wires) and splice them into the the other fan's wires, just before the plug. I think you gotta get the pos/neg right, but am not sure if it matters. I'm not an electrician. I turned on the ignition on and tested the setup by shorting the thermoswitch in the right side radiator with my screwdriver. Both fans instantly shot to life.
Nice write up, but you may want to check that wiring. Your fan may be running backwards. It'll still add some cooling, but it'll be more effective if its pulling air though the radiator instead of pushing it.
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Old 02-06-2006, 11:12 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRobinson
I've just added photos of the installation to my earlier posting.
Really nice job, I will go that way.
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Old 02-06-2006, 12:49 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UngaWunga
Nice write up, but you may want to check that wiring. Your fan may be running backwards. It'll still add some cooling, but it'll be more effective if its pulling air though the radiator instead of pushing it.
Thanks for the info. I guess I got lucky as it is pulling air through and out the holes in the fuel tank and not the other way around.
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Old 02-06-2006, 04:00 PM   #38
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Aw shucks... stop with the flattery already, people around here are starting to wonder why I'm blushing.
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Old 02-21-2006, 04:53 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WageSlave
Aw shucks... stop with the flattery already, people around here are starting to wonder why I'm blushing.
Due to your finding, all the stuff to do mine just arrived on my door step today.... Ill be ripping into it tomarrow, and fixing my pesky needle and seat problem so I can finaly ride the darn thing after about a month of fiddling with it....
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Old 02-21-2006, 09:09 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WageSlave
...



...
Hey WS, I just noticed yer Hella there in the background of your good work installing the second fan - did'ja go dual? And did'ja get the German Hella(s) or the one(s) manufactured by their Indian subsidiary (which are cheaper but purportedly sound different)?
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Old 02-22-2006, 11:40 AM   #41
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This has probly been covered. But here it goes. I was plannin on putting in a manual override switch when I did my dual fan. Well while testing the fans to see if they worked, the little light went on in my head... The only reason I wanted a bypass was in case the thermostatic switch ever took a dump out in the middle of nowhere... well, instead of relays, wires off the batt, and switches, here is what I came up with, crude but it works and fits nice in the tool box, since on my 2002 all that connects the thermostatic switch is two femal spade connectors..
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Old 02-22-2006, 12:07 PM   #42
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So you can essentially "short out" the theromstat (switch) and turn on the fan(s)? Good idea.

I recall folks who wanted more cooling were installing a switch on their fan (either the only one or the extra one) so they could turn on the fan in the slow stuff (tight trails, traffic) and keep the bike from getting hot in the first place. Note I did not type "too hot" since I have not read of anyone overheating a functioning bike.

Any of you have a oil temp gauge installed (Jerome?) and can list the temps where your temp gauge hits 3 bars, when the fan comes on and when the gauge tops out, and when the overheat light comes on (if it does)?
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Old 02-22-2006, 12:17 PM   #43
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Exactly, Even when running one fan, I would never even get close to heating it up, it would just float at around 4-5 bars. I figured with the dual fan, Why run all that extra wire that can just go wrong and cause other problems, let the bike do its work. If it stops, then thats what the wire is for.
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Old 02-22-2006, 01:22 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
Hey WS, I just noticed yer Hella there in the background of your good work installing the second fan - did'ja go dual? And did'ja get the German Hella(s) or the one(s) manufactured by their Indian subsidiary (which are cheaper but purportedly sound different)?
I'm only running one Hella supertone horn. I have the ballast for my HID mounted at the same place that the secondary horn would have gone. It's the German Hella. Me Likey! Me Likey HID too! The HID bulb is wired to the HI beam switch, the bulb being mounted within the HI beam light housing.
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Old 02-22-2006, 02:14 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WageSlave
I'm only running one Hella supertone horn. I have the ballast for my HID mounted at the same place that the secondary horn would have gone. It's the German Hella. Me Likey! Me Likey HID too! The HID bulb is wired to the HI beam switch, the bulb being mounted within the HI beam light housing.
Ah, HID... yeah, it must be nice. That is a nice mod but it's low on my list (expensive to eh?); steering dampener is high up there. The one I can afford is probably the KTM rallye pegs; the Fastaways would be nice (lower pegs) but the price and effort is daunting.
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