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Old 04-25-2006, 01:09 PM   #61
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4 Pilot
Does anyone know what the part number is for the plastic connector on the stock fan? It looks like a Molex type connector, or possibly a Phillmore, but I am having trouble finding info on it. My local electronics shop doesn't have it in stock (no surprise), in fact they're "downsizing." They gave up a good chunk of their retail floor space to a neighboring business.

Websites for both Mouser and the Molex haven't produced the answers I'm seeking.

If there are any electrical geniuses out there... let me know what you know.

Thanks.
BUMP, wageslave about? I too would like to know how the electrical connection was made, and which connectors (if any were purchased). The connector at any rate would be useful info!
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Old 04-25-2006, 01:44 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
BUMP, wageslave about? I too would like to know how the electrical connection was made, and which connectors (if any were purchased). The connector at any rate would be useful info!
I found a little printing on the connector... it says

CPH-2

I believe it's a German product (similar to Molex), but I could find nothing on the 'net about where to source one out.

I'm thinking about just cutting them off, and replacing with a standard connector more readily found in the U.S.
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Old 04-25-2006, 02:15 PM   #63
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That'd be easier than going thru this list and trying to find it:

Association of Electrical Mfg. who participated in the CPH-2 standard?
Amphenol Tuchel Electronics GmbH
Grote & Hartmann GmbH & Co KG
Harting KGaA
JST Deutschkland GmbH
Lumberg Holding GmbH & Co
Molex Elektrotechnic GmbH
Multi-Contact AG
ODU GmbH
Tyco Electronics AMP
Weidmüller Interface

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Old 04-25-2006, 08:58 PM   #64
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Hard to find connectors

I think KTM sources connectors the same way they do bearings. They make deals with the manufacturer for exclusive distribution rights. Not all, but some. I think this was the case for the clutch bearings that are currently popular to replace. I spent much time looking through German electronic supply catalogs for the connector at the end of the LC4e odometer assembly and found absolutely nothing. In the end I just snipped and crimped my own connector.

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Old 05-01-2006, 12:16 AM   #65
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Not much help here... I cut the plastic connector off of the wires then spliced the wires into the circuit for the primary fan. In that manner both fans activate simultaneously when triggered by the thermo-switch.
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Old 05-01-2006, 08:26 AM   #66
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I ended up cutting the plastic connectors off, and installing Molex connectors. I wired in two 2 pin Molex Female connectors in parallel on the harness to accommodate the two fans.
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Old 05-24-2006, 05:06 PM   #67
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I just received my package from Munn Racing with the second fan and the accessories. They sent me the wrong fan cap - the one that actually goes on the 640 Adv not the smaller 525 EXC one. I spoke to them on the phone and it should be all cleared up with them sending me the smaller fan cap to fit on the right side radiator. No worries, now I'm just more excited to get the thing mounted since we are supposed to be in the 90s the rest of the week or so.

Didn't even tell me I needed to send the other one back, although shipping is probably more than the plastic piece is worth. Good customer service if you ask me.
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Old 05-24-2006, 08:35 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeegee
I just received my package from Munn Racing with the second fan and the accessories. They sent me the wrong fan cap - the one that actually goes on the 640 Adv not the smaller 525 EXC one. I spoke to them on the phone and it should be all cleared up with them sending me the smaller fan cap to fit on the right side radiator. No worries, now I'm just more excited to get the thing mounted since we are supposed to be in the 90s the rest of the week or so.

Didn't even tell me I needed to send the other one back, although shipping is probably more than the plastic piece is worth. Good customer service if you ask me.
EXACT same thing happened to me about a month and a half ago with the same part. I had the same resolution too. Aside from a few extra days of waiting, I agree the customer servive was great.
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:51 AM   #69
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After reading all this, I see alot of great ideas. Thanks everyone.

My stock fan on my 2000 LC4 640 just puked. It's the smaller, older version. I have about 23,000 miles on that bike. Anyone found anywhere to get just a motor to replaced the worn out one? I'd like to put dual fans on someday, I don't really want to buy the complete updated setup yet.

Thanks
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Old 10-23-2006, 12:31 AM   #70
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I've added a handlebar mounted switch

Here is a wiring schematic for the method that I used to install a manual override for the dual cooling fans. I wanted the stock temperature switch to function as "normal" (seems to come on only after the bike is overheating), the manual override to function on a fused circuit and only when the key is in the ignition and the ignition is "on".

Please note that this is the method that I used for wiring in the switch. I am not an electrician or a trained motorcycle mechanic, I have no clue as to whether tapping into the negative terminal of the capacitor is going to lead to catastrophic failure down the road. I tested this configuration with a multi-meter with no apparent issues arising. If you chose to do this same installation, do not hold me responsible should anything happen. In my own experience I encountered one issue when I'd thought everything was going to be perfect. The #4 10amp fuse repeatedly blew out (I went through a few fuses during the troubleshooting process) whenever I turned the key to the "On" position in the ignition. The speedometer/odometer would not function either. There are threads that address this issue, from which I discovered that one of the wires to the horn was shorting out against the frame. I applied heat shrink tubing to the connector to cover the worn insulation, repositioned the horn slightly... and no more problems.

Ok... so here's the wiring schematic:


And here's the other details for the rest of the installation just so you don't have to look back through the pages of this thread to find them:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WageSlave
No cutting of the fan housing or fan cap, no interference with the decompression cable, no heat gun to melt the tank to get it to fit around the new fan! If anyone is interested in installing a second fan on their '03 KTM 640 ADV I'd recommend the following change to the necessary parts list.

Instead of ordering part #58435044000 (FAN CAP LC4 2000) from the 640 LC4 Adventure microfiche, order part #59035044000 (FAN CAP 450-525 EXC,MXC,SX) from the "Cooling System 250/450/525 Racing" microfiche. Edited image from microfiche is below (showing part numbers).


My setup consisted of the following parts from Munn Racing:
Item #: 58435041000
FAN CPL. 12V LC4 2000
Quantity: 1
Cost Each: $83.18

Item #: 59035044000
FAN CAP
Quantity: 1
Cost Each: $4.14

Item #: 58312085100
EDGE PROTECTOR PER METER
Quantity: 1
Cost Each: $7.33

Item #: 58435044050
FAN FLAP RUBBER LC4 2000
Quantity: 1
Cost Each: $3.38

Item #: 0081500181
SCREW FOR PLASTIC D=5X18
Quantity: 4
Cost Each: $0.78

Total for this setup: $89.09 plus tax (if you are in Texas) from Munn Racing (with the 15% discount for KTMTalk.com members).

The Fan Cap (part #59035044000) is shorter than the 640 LC4 Adventure version (part #58435044000), and the fan interface is offset closer to the outside edge of the radiator. See image comparison below from the microfiche:


Actual height comparison:


Actual width comparison:


The fan cap will mount at the lowest edge of the radiator, I had to drill two holes that lined up with the metal brackets on the outer edge of the radiator. The fan cap overlaps the edge so that those two metal brackets are on the inside of the fan cap. To mount this to the brackets I used two #10 sheetmetal bolts and screws.


With the sheetmetal bolts attached to the metal radiator brackets I positioned the fan cap such that the holes I'd drilled aligned with the holes in the sheetmetal bolts. I used a single compression washer as a spacer between the edge of the fan cap and the sheetmetal bolt at the lowest attachment. This provided the small additional clearance I wanted in order to feel comfortable that the decompression cable wouldn't bind. I then did some wiring so that both fans would kick in automatically when the thermostat activates the switch.




The tank slipped on without a hitch. No binding with the new fan, the fan sits just inside the lower ventilation hole on the right side of the tank (when sitting on the bike).


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WageSlave screwed with this post 10-23-2006 at 01:18 AM
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Old 10-23-2006, 06:45 AM   #71
KenR
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Thank you for posting an excellent guide to doing this mod. It's something I'm going to do sometime over the next few weeks.
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Old 10-23-2006, 08:09 AM   #72
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Aha, so you were field testing before posting. Excellent... I wish I were so patient. Thanks for posting wagey - the wiring diagram is very clean!

Did you take any pics of your wiring/switch work? And what supplies did you use? Meaning what gauge of wiring and what type of switch? Just a few details would be splendid.
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Old 09-02-2009, 08:46 AM   #73
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Up from the basement! Excellent thread and proof that the search function works. Soooo my new to me low mile 03 640A was overheating in stop and go traffic in 101 degree heat.....go figger. I ordered the fan kit from Munn racing and this the question:

Any problems with wiring the second fan directly to the battery with a bar mounted on/off switch and inline fuse?

OK another question, Wageslave's wiring diagram shows a box with C_BL/2. What is that box thingie? And is that diagram to manually turn the fan on/off or just to override the fan off as it ties into the left fan?

I like the idea of having control over when it comes on and off.
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:21 AM   #74
meat popsicle
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I have not used wageslave's wiring diagram, nor wired in a second fan. But a manual control seems good since you can turn it on early and try to keep temps down. Another method, which may work well enough to keep you from installing a second fan is to get the lower temp thermoswitch for the existing fan - a few have appreciated this mod.

You can also just put an override switch on the existing fan to turn it on in traffic and see if it pulls enough air to keep temps down. Maybe one fan is not enough to lower temps once they get as high as the thermoswitch, but maybe it can keep them down before they get that high?
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:57 PM   #75
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Thats a thought. My goal is to be able to let it idle in the heat and if it starts to over heat, kick on the second fan and watch the temp go back down. If it can do that, I know with semi confidence it will handle almost anything. Sounds good on paper at least.
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