R100GS Nissin 4-piston caliper conversion - Page 3

cbmwgs · 04-28-2006, 06:48 AM

Where does one get a 15mm Magura master cylinder ?

Got a part number ?

Motocicletta · 04-28-2006, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cbmw1150

Where does one get a 15mm Magura master cylinder ?

See my post above. Your BMW dealer. You can get a 15mm or a 16mm.

If you want to keep the stock switchgear gotta use the stock MC, as the brake lever perch has the switches integral to it.

I use a 15mm with the two pot 48mm Brembo. Stock MC is 13mm. I did this because I never liked the eccessive brake lever travel with the 13mm, it made it difficult to modulate the throttle and brake at the same time. If i've lost some mechanical advantage I might have regained it with a MAP 320mm kit.

Steve in NZ · 04-30-2006, 02:10 AM

That first picture/post in this thread looks very like a bike parked in my garage. A guy in Auckland, NZ thought up this mod as far as I am aware. I bought a adapter bracket off him. It was made out of hardened steel and I had it coated. The coating was looking like shit so my neighbour is a tool maker and made me a nice shiny stainless one a few weeks ago.

Numerous guys have done this mod in NZ.

I had this mod on my bike about 6 years.

the old original brake. A more efficent braking system would be to hold ya arms out horizontally, rotate palms forward and cup ya hands. I don't know how many intersections I went past two up cause the brakes didn't work.

This system has caused me no problems, I am still on the original pads i bought which off the top of me head were EBC, FA105 i think. ??? forgot

I ride numerous gravel roads and have never had a scary moment or had the front brake lock. Remember that if you make the brake to efficent in the gravel, you may end up inspecting the road with brake that works to well.

I run Pirelli Scorpion tyres and get about 10-12000kms on a rear and 15000kms on a front. I have never really had a scary moment on these tyres and if you have ridden in NZ trucks love leaving Diesil on the road. I wouldn't use them in situations where mud is abound but gravel is fine.

this old pig has put the frighteners up many sports bikes in the twisty stuff after i have come off a secton of gravel as ya confidence is on a high, when coming back on the seal.

Steve

PS. Why clean it it is only gunna get dirty the next time I take it out.

heres a recent ride. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133052

SOLO LOBO · 04-30-2006, 06:46 AM

Steve,

That is your adapter in the first picture of this thread! It's the one that gave me the idea to try it myself. In the end yours does look better than mine!

Great to hear from you, make sure to thank whoever thought of this over in kiwiland, I hope to make it back over your way again one of these days.

SL

SOLO LOBO · 10-03-2006, 03:38 PM

Here's a shot almost one year later..

El Hombre · 10-07-2006, 05:08 AM

Does the caliper actually pivot on the adapter, or do the bolts hold it tight? The deal on master cylinder piston size is the smaller one gives higher pressure with the same squeeze on the lever, but less volume of fluid per mm of movement compared to a larger diameter. If you want power brakes go with the smallest one that won't bottom out against the grip.

I've been thinking of changing the front brakes on my R90s, back in 1980 there was one racing that used Lockheed calipers on hangers that pivoted on the front axle and had a pushrod that attached to the lower fork crown. This gave an anti-dive effect. Looks pretty cool too. But I like the way you guys have used the Japanese calipers.

SOLO LOBO · 10-07-2006, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by El Hombre

Does the caliper actually pivot on the adapter, or do the bolts hold it tight?

No pivot

.... I do need to find a 45" line, the 50" one offends my aestetic sensibilities

No issues with my master cylinder, the level cannot be pulled all the way back to the bars, and I never use more than two fingers braking (and can lock the front tire)

SOLO LOBO · 11-10-2006, 05:47 PM

So, did any of you guys that requested the CAD drawing of the adapter ever get to making one ????

Just wondering if there more than two of these conversions our there!

BIG JOE, TONY WHERE YOU AT?????

Steve in NZ · 11-11-2006, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO

So, did any of you guys that requested the CAD drawing of the adapter ever get to making one ????

Just wondering if there more than two of these conversions our there!

BIG JOE, TONY WHERE YOU AT?????

come to NZ ther are heaps of these conversions

Zebedee · 12-19-2006, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve in NZ

come to NZ there are heaps of these conversions

Steve called round to my place at the weekend, and I had the opportunity to measure up the adapter from his bike, as a result I’ve just got the price back from the engineers.

Grade 6061 Aluminium, CNC milled with radiused ends and blind threaded hole for the fork leg fixing bolt. Basically, los cojones del perro.

Price - $50 kiwi, or about £ 17.50 sterling, $ 35 US, € 26.50 at today’s rates + P&P.

Send me a PM if you’re interested … I might even be persuaded to email out a PDF for a small contribution made on my behalf to ADVrider for the yanks or to the BHT at UKGSer for the POM’s.

Regards

John

R-dubb · 12-19-2006, 07:02 PM

Here is what I'll be mounting. In fact, I may have an extra caliper since I bought a pair on eBay. Not 100% sure which hand I'll be using since either could work in slightly different positions on the rotor. Does it matter whether the line banjo is at the top or bottom when the caliper is mounted?

Wirespokes · 12-19-2006, 07:05 PM

For bleeding purposes it's best to have the bleeder at the high point.

rubicon1979 · 01-28-2007, 10:17 PM

Well my R100GSPD had got to where it would just slow down instead of stop. Took it to the dealer they said I had some random caliper off some random BMW, a bad rotor, unknown master cylinder, etc and I needed to pay them $1200 to fix my brakes. I got to reading and went and got my bike.

With the help of this thread I found a caliper from a 94 GSXR 1100 that is a 6 pot Tokico for a good deal on Ebay. My buddy made a bracket similar to the ones used here and so far it is much better than stock. I still think it has some real room for improvement though.

My brake line has a date, 03/89, so it is quite old. I've found a couple of places who will make custom SS brake lines so tomorrow I'm gonna call around to check on that. I'll need it to go to my factory master cylinder but with a banjo fitting on the caliper itself so it shouldnt be anything strange. Anybody know what thread pattern goes into the master?

After reading I'm still a little confused on changing the master cylinder out. As it is now the lever wont touch the throttle but still doesnt seem to have the clamping force I think it should. Will going to the bigger master help this? If so where would I get one? I see to get a BMW one but what do I need to tell the dealer to get that part? I'm not a mechanic by no means so any other advice is appreciated.

I'll get some pics in the next day or two.

Thanks for the thread, it saved me some money and improved my brakes.

Damien

SOLO LOBO · 01-29-2007, 08:28 AM

Damien,

The SS brake line is a must, and the brake pads do take some time to bed in. In my case, there was a ridge on the top edge of the rotor that the pads of the nissin had to scrub off before the pad make really good contact with the rotor.

I am running the stock master cylinder and have two-finger braking!

rubicon1979 · 02-07-2007, 09:55 PM

Well the new brake line came in along with some new pads and now its 2 finger front wheel lock ups. All total it ran about $250 which is almost $1k less than the dealer quoted me to replace my stock system. Here is a pic I took, fresh with brake fluid from the 27th time bleeding it.

The caliper is supposedly from a 1994 Suzuki GSXR 1100 but dont hold me to that, its just what the Ebay auction said. The bracket was really simple to make and the caliper was within .020 of being centered so we just mounted it right up.

04-28-2006, 06:48 AM	#31
cbmwgs Retired Adventurer Joined: Oct 2001 Location: Texas Oddometer: 755	parts Where does one get a 15mm Magura master cylinder ? Got a part number ? __________________ MY bike page 2002 BMW R1150R Black cbmwgs screwed with this post 04-28-2006 at 08:45 AM

04-30-2006, 02:10 AM	#33
Steve in NZ scared/cheap Joined: Aug 2001 Oddometer: 1,002	hey Solo That first picture/post in this thread looks very like a bike parked in my garage. A guy in Auckland, NZ thought up this mod as far as I am aware. I bought a adapter bracket off him. It was made out of hardened steel and I had it coated. The coating was looking like shit so my neighbour is a tool maker and made me a nice shiny stainless one a few weeks ago. Numerous guys have done this mod in NZ. I had this mod on my bike about 6 years. the old original brake. A more efficent braking system would be to hold ya arms out horizontally, rotate palms forward and cup ya hands. I don't know how many intersections I went past two up cause the brakes didn't work. This system has caused me no problems, I am still on the original pads i bought which off the top of me head were EBC, FA105 i think. ??? forgot I ride numerous gravel roads and have never had a scary moment or had the front brake lock. Remember that if you make the brake to efficent in the gravel, you may end up inspecting the road with brake that works to well. I run Pirelli Scorpion tyres and get about 10-12000kms on a rear and 15000kms on a front. I have never really had a scary moment on these tyres and if you have ridden in NZ trucks love leaving Diesil on the road. I wouldn't use them in situations where mud is abound but gravel is fine. this old pig has put the frighteners up many sports bikes in the twisty stuff after i have come off a secton of gravel as ya confidence is on a high, when coming back on the seal. Steve PS. Why clean it it is only gunna get dirty the next time I take it out. heres a recent ride. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133052 Attached Images __________________ Cheers Steve bike = the purple pig

12-19-2006, 07:02 PM	#41
R-dubb Dubbious Adventurer Joined: Aug 2001 Location: San Francisco Oddometer: 4,691	Here is what I'll be mounting. In fact, I may have an extra caliper since I bought a pair on eBay. Not 100% sure which hand I'll be using since either could work in slightly different positions on the rotor. Does it matter whether the line banjo is at the top or bottom when the caliper is mounted? __________________ MINIMOUNT Hard Shell Netbook Case & Mounts

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10-07-2006, 05:08 AM	#36
El Hombre Banned Joined: Jul 2006 Location: Alta Coma, California Oddometer: 1,536	Does the caliper actually pivot on the adapter, or do the bolts hold it tight? The deal on master cylinder piston size is the smaller one gives higher pressure with the same squeeze on the lever, but less volume of fluid per mm of movement compared to a larger diameter. If you want power brakes go with the smallest one that won't bottom out against the grip. I've been thinking of changing the front brakes on my R90s, back in 1980 there was one racing that used Lockheed calipers on hangers that pivoted on the front axle and had a pushrod that attached to the lower fork crown. This gave an anti-dive effect. Looks pretty cool too. But I like the way you guys have used the Japanese calipers.

12-19-2006, 07:05 PM	#42
Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous Joined: Jul 2002 Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon Oddometer: 7,354	For bleeding purposes it's best to have the bleeder at the high point.

01-28-2007, 10:17 PM	#43
rubicon1979 Poser Joined: Feb 2006 Location: Alexander City, Alabama Oddometer: 214	Well my R100GSPD had got to where it would just slow down instead of stop. Took it to the dealer they said I had some random caliper off some random BMW, a bad rotor, unknown master cylinder, etc and I needed to pay them $1200 to fix my brakes. I got to reading and went and got my bike. With the help of this thread I found a caliper from a 94 GSXR 1100 that is a 6 pot Tokico for a good deal on Ebay. My buddy made a bracket similar to the ones used here and so far it is much better than stock. I still think it has some real room for improvement though. My brake line has a date, 03/89, so it is quite old. I've found a couple of places who will make custom SS brake lines so tomorrow I'm gonna call around to check on that. I'll need it to go to my factory master cylinder but with a banjo fitting on the caliper itself so it shouldnt be anything strange. Anybody know what thread pattern goes into the master? After reading I'm still a little confused on changing the master cylinder out. As it is now the lever wont touch the throttle but still doesnt seem to have the clamping force I think it should. Will going to the bigger master help this? If so where would I get one? I see to get a BMW one but what do I need to tell the dealer to get that part? I'm not a mechanic by no means so any other advice is appreciated. I'll get some pics in the next day or two. Thanks for the thread, it saved me some money and improved my brakes. Damien

02-07-2007, 09:55 PM	#45
rubicon1979 Poser Joined: Feb 2006 Location: Alexander City, Alabama Oddometer: 214	Well the new brake line came in along with some new pads and now its 2 finger front wheel lock ups. All total it ran about $250 which is almost $1k less than the dealer quoted me to replace my stock system. Here is a pic I took, fresh with brake fluid from the 27th time bleeding it. The caliper is supposedly from a 1994 Suzuki GSXR 1100 but dont hold me to that, its just what the Ebay auction said. The bracket was really simple to make and the caliper was within .020 of being centered so we just mounted it right up.