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Old 01-20-2012, 06:45 PM   #61
ignatz72 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tennessee thumper View Post
i hear you les, loud and clear.

Ignatz is on the hook and on the led crack pipe.
Yer killen me, Dubs.
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:03 AM   #62
Bill Harris
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Conspicuity lighting (Daytime Running Lamps) is also a very good application for LEDs. You can go the top-end route and get a Whelan LED module, which is very compact and bright, but pricey. Or you can go the off-the-shelf NAPA LED truck turn signal module, a bit less compact and pricey but still bright, as I did.

Here is the R&D thread I did on mine:

Daytime running lights on crash bars - ADVrider
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=586134
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:33 AM   #63
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Soo . with the crazy bright up front running lites ..Ie turn signals .. I find the orange lite just with stock bulbs too bright and hampers my distance vison at night .Been thinking about a top shield on the turn signals ..Is the tailblazer worth the dollars? How about durability of the led hanging over the tailpipe ...my stock left signal showing signs of being warmer than the right
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:24 PM   #64
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You'll have to wait for Les_Garten to speak to the Tailblazer issue, I'm not running one. Les got the 100HD, which should allow for wiring in the turn signal circuits somehow (but it wouldn't be required since he's going w/ a Kisan relay). I would have gone with the 20W-D bulb replacement option if I still had the stock taillight reflector and bulb housing. I suppose I could integrate a 100HD with my LED Taillight replacement (Les_Garten is going to do this with his Beacon II), to provide modulation there, but I have enough modulation with the Lite-Blazer and the Kisan Brake-Flash features.

As to the extra heat that the left rear bulb might see due to the exhaust pipe - I don't argue that the left will probably be a few degrees warmer than the right, but I think the effect will be negligible. In the worst of the summer where I live, it can be 100 degrees or more, so the left signal might be 105? Instead of 40,000 hours on that bulb, I might get 30,000? I can live with that. Using this example, a 40,000 hour bulb would light CONTINUOUSLY for 4.5 years. 30,000 equals 3.4 years. Either way, neither bulb should need replacing for a long time. Incandescents are usually shown with 1,000 or a few thousand hours life.

I'd be more worried about an LED bulb in the Parking Light socket in the Headlight Lens, temps in there are pretty high with no airflow... in fact, superbrightleds.com specifically does not recommend LEDs for Headlight lens applications.

I hope your packages get there soon, Les, I'm dying to see your results!
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:47 PM   #65
craydds
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This is a most glorious thread, and most beneficial to all our comrades. I shall subscribe, if I can elucidate how to subscribe. I will proclaim to our most glorious leader, ignatz72, our praise and adoration. ( seriously, so what must i obtain? seems like the kisan, the 1156 led's, the tailblazer, ... ). Les, I am with you, I'm HOOKED.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:25 PM   #66
ignatz72 OP
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craydds,

You can subscribe to a thread by clicking on the "Thread Tools" menu in the top right of your browser window (apparently this function is not available in Tapatalk).

What kind of bike are you looking at upgrading with the LEDs? It will help with recommendations for some parts, although I have to admit I only have real-world LED experience with the late-model Paralever GSs. I have owned twin-shock models, so can offer some advice in places for them, but will be using some of Les_Garten's experiences to supplement my knowledge...

So the bike model will help, as well as what result you are looking for in various mods (stop modulation, running lights, overall conspicuity, bulb longevity, etc.).
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:32 PM   #67
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I did get all my lighting stuff today. But it's part of a big upgrade for engine, suspension, lighting, ignition, electrical charging, paint, etc. So I'll most likely not get to start on it for another month or so. Probably take a while. A lot of my customs parts have been delayed over and over again. You know how that goes.

I may pull out the instructions for the Tailblazer and SM-1. I'm curious how they work together.

I'll go HID on the headlight as well. I don't ever plan to ride at night if I don't have to. It's mainly for daytime visibility.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:33 PM   #68
Les_Garten
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OK, OK,

maybe I'll move the lighting up on my upgrade schedule!
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Old 01-24-2012, 05:21 AM   #69
craydds
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ignatz72, I have a '75 R90S. I looked at the Kisan website and there are Signal Minders for various connectors; I'll look at my turn signal flasher connection this evening. I want to have "running lights" front and back, BRIGHT tail and brake lights, and the flashing brake light (tailminder) for starters. Seems like all I would need is the Signal Minder, some 1156's and an 1157; I would like none, or minimal, wiring modifications - seems like the signal minder and the LED's are "plug-n-play".
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Old 01-24-2012, 05:40 AM   #70
ignatz72 OP
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craydds items

Let's see, R90s, got it.

First things first, you will want the Kisan SM-1. This relay provides the running lights and turn signal "Brake Flash" functions, as well as creating a two-channel system. The last part is especially important since you have a single turn signal dash indicator. The SM-1 will force one side or the other to blink, rather than experiencing an "all four flash" situation as previously mentioned. Be sure to hook up all required wires in the SM-1 (Scotchlok connectors are included).

If you have any doubts or questions about the SM-1 or Tailblazer and your bike, call Kisan and talk to Andy - very friendly, knowledgeable, and helpful.

It'd be nice to have whatever info you get from Andy posted here for others if you do call.

Motoelekt.com sells the Beacon I LED replacement panel, which you could use for brighter running and stop lights at the tail. My buddy had one of these on his /5, and it was great. You could (probably) also wire in a Kisan 100HD Tailblazer here to provide stop modulation with the LED replacement board (***untested or verified, but theoretically should work***).

If you don't want to go with the Beacon I, you can get the Kisan 20W-D Tailblazer bulb, which is an electronically controlled Halogen 1157 replacement bulb for the stock socket and reflector. This will give you plug-n-play stop light modulation.

Beyond that, 1156-x18-Ts or 1156-x45-Ts from superbrightleds.com all around on the turn signal bulbs, and you will be rocking.

Plenty of choices for license plate add-ons (like my Lite-Blazer, or the other products mentioned previously). But the stuff above would get you started.
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:16 AM   #71
craydds
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Thank you for your help. Yeehaw, another project to start, 'cause I've only got six or seven other projects going on in various stages of completion. I have always wanted BRIGHT lights; cars don't see us, period, especially with dim tail/brake lights. Hopefully I can shock them into consciousness (yeah, right) with BLAZING light all around. I did the dual headlight relay - Eastern Beaver style, but made my own - and run a 100W H4 directly off the battery. Be interesting to see how Les does with the HID.
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:13 PM   #72
ignatz72 OP
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Alright!

So far, Tennessee Thumper, Les_Garten, and craydds are onboard the LED train! WOO, WOOOOO!

I really look forward to the results of the Kisan 100HD Tailblazer from both Les and Ray... seriously, no pressure or hurry - do it right and report back.

Meanwhile, an update I don't think I have provided yet. I completed the idiot light install and fairing reassembly on my GS this past weekend, and I have to say that I am super pleased. You have already seen the results of the SBLEDS BA9s-RHP3s in the gauges (the BA9s-RHP6 will absolutely not fit without modification), but I would like to provide what evidence I can of using the 74-xHP3s in the dash indicators.

The 74-xHP3s are direct replacements of the #2721 bulbs used in most dash indicator applications. In attempting to find a perfect fit, I tested these as well as the 74-xHP and 24-xHP. The 24-xHP would not fit at all in this socket, and I demolished the 74-xHP in my attempts to make it fit (the plastic base is seriously weak). So the 74-xHP3 has emerged as the sturdiest fit for #2721 applications (again, dielectric grease helps!). If your existing idiot bulbs look like the one pictured on the right below, the 74-xHP3 will work for you.

One more shot of the comparison between the stock idiot light bulb (#2721) and the 74-xHP3:
From LED stuff


So I have a 74-BHP3 for the High Beam indicator, a 74-RHP3 for the Oil Pressure indicator, and 3x 74-GHP3 for Turn Signal and Neutral indicators. I buttoned everything back up, put all the fairing panels back on and took a brief ride yesterday evening. My thoughts follow.

The 74-xHP3 bulbs are BRIGHT. Do not be misled, these things are much brighter than stock incandescents. Those of you with Macular Degeneration, Sensitive Retinas, Chronic Dry Eye, or who ride a lot at night may want to stick with incandescents or follow my ideas below. I do most of my riding in the city during the day, so I want bright dash indicators. If I lived in the country or rode mostly at night I would probably think differently. I was hoping that some of the single LED options would fit, because I expected that multi-LED bulbs might be too bright, but I have not found a suitable single-LED bulb in my testing.

Here are some shots of the idiot lights in action, although the iPhone camera kinda bleeds all the bright lights together more than in reality:

LED Oil Pressure vs. incandescent Charge (you can tell the left light halo is brighter than the right):
From LED stuff


LED Oil Pressure, incandescent Charge, and LED Neutral:
From LED stuff


And finally, the Big Lebowski: LED Oil Pressure, incandescent Charge, LED Neutral, LED High Beam, and LED Turn Signal indicators on half intensity Running Light setting:
From LED stuff


SO... Yes, the reflection in the large GS windshield is bothersome, and yes the 74-xHP3s are bright. But again, pictures don't really do it justice, it's really something that you will have to try. The 74-xHP3s are only $3.50 each so you really can't lose for giving it a run.

Honestly, I am glad these bulbs are brighter, because I want to know if something is up and I don't initially catch onto it. When running, you WANT to see the Oil Pressure light as soon as possible, and you should know when to expect the Neutral light. The only qualm I have is the brightness of the High Beam indicator. Granted, I don't have much occasion to travel with the High Beam on here in the city, but when I visit TN Thumper in the country I can see how the brightness of the 74-BHP3 would be a problem. My installation is also complicated by the GS touring windshield reflection, something that should not be a problem in the summer with the stock windscreen.

BUT, I have an idea that I think I will try. This might work for those of you who want LEDs in the dash but are worried about brightness since I do think the 74-xHP3 is the sturdiest, best solution for this application.

I'm thinking about using some liquid electrical tape to paint over the two side LEDs on the High Beam bulb. This will make the 74-xHP3 a one LED bulb. I do believe that there will be plenty of light provided by the one remaining LED, while not becoming overpowering at night.

My only worry with this solution is the possible heat generated by the then covered LEDs on the side of the bulb, and how that might affect overall bulb life.

But, overall, nice problems to have when considering the benefit I recognize in these bulbs. We're talking 40,0000 hour life in the idiot light position, a spot I am all too happy to avoid revisiting with regards to bulb replacement! I think the bulb life tradeoff may be entirely relative...

My question to you electrical gurus is this: Snowbum made mention of a slightly lower wattage/voltage bulb that would instigate charging sooner in the Charge Indicator position, so what do you think the ramifications would be of having an LED bulb in the Charge Indicator spot? We're talking mA draw instead of 10ths of an A draw, would that mean charging starts as soon as the bike is running, or would some other Hell Break Loose as a result of having an LED in this location?

THX for reading and replying!
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I love every motorcycle I've owned and even some that I haven't.

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Old 01-25-2012, 05:18 AM   #73
tennessee thumper
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:47 AM   #74
ignatz72 OP
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Should've seen that one coming!

...and yer still killen me.
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:35 AM   #75
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