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Old 12-21-2011, 03:35 PM   #1
jesperd OP
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The Carpathians 2012

Hi,

I am planning on riding along the Carpathians starting in Zakopane, Poland and a little Slovakia. Then into the Ukrainian Carpathians, the Romainan Carpathians, then returning to Sweden (south) via Serbia, Bosnia, Croatia, Slovenia, Austria, and Germany.

Poland
I was actually planning on rushing through Poland along major highways between Berlin and Krakow to get to Zakopane/Tatra Mountains as quickly as possible, but another thread in here got me thinking that might be foolish. Anything along that route that is worth a detour?

Ukraine
This is the part that I know the least about. What I did found out, is that a travelling agency (green-ukraine.com) do arrange ATV tours to the old Polish observatory on the top of Pip Ivan. I figure, if they can take unskilled tourists on ATVs there, it cannot be harcore enduro. Anyone who knows if this is doable? If so, do you know which route to take?
Additionally, I am planning on riding along this mountain range (I don't know its name), but based on Panoramio pictures like this, it should be possible. I hope.

Romania
I got some good suggestions from a Romanian rider (not sure if he's an inmate, if you're Alex, from Romania and this plan sounds familiar, please let me know).
Entering Romania at the Siret border crossing. Heading south west along route 17A and 17. Then 17B to Bicaz.
From Bicaz to the Bicaz Canyons. From there, some small gravel roads, forrest roads, minor paved roads, in the mountains to hook up with 1A north bound to Brasov.
Transfagarasan south (assuming it is open, if not, directly from Brasov to 67C), Transalpina (67C) and Urdele pass north.
Then towards Petrosani, then 66A, 67D to Danube river.
Crossing the border to Serbia at the Drobeta-Turnu Severin border crossing.

Serbia
Following the Danube river on the Serbia side through the Iron Gates, then smaller roads and route 200 into Belgrade. I don't know what to see, but I guess the night is young in Belgrade.
From Belgrade, smaller roads to Bosnia-Herzegovina through the border crossing at Badovinci.

Bosnia-Herzegovina
Tuzla to Doboj via what seems to be the only route between those cities according to Google.
Doboj to Banja Luka via small roads, continueing to Novi Grad, Bosanska Krupa and Bihac.

Croatia
From Bihac across the border to Plitvicka, small roads to Senj via Dabar. Along the coast line to Rijeka. From there, highway A7 to Slovenia.

Slovenia
Smaller roads to Lake Bohinj and then into Austria.

Austria
Grossglockner.

Germany
Autobahns to Munich, all the way to Denmark, then Sweden. I will probably go via Harzen for the night.


I have posted these plans (although not this detailed) in a couple Danis and Swedish motorcycle forums, but I am not getting any feedback. Maybe people think the plan is crazy. Based on the Ride Reports in here, I'm sure you guys wouldn't think that :-)

I am not planning where to sleep, really. I will rest when I get sore, tired, find nice place sleep. I have good experience with just asking locals, if you're not more than 2 or 3. This also means that I am not sure how many days this take, but I do need to keep it on the lower side of 16 days. I am willing to postpone the Balkans if it gets too tight and just rush back on major highways to Sweden. I should be able to ride from Romania to Sweden (Malmo) in 3 days, although I prefer not to. We'll see.

So far we will be riding two. Me on my 1200GSA and a friend on an 1100GS. Those are heavy bikes and as we do want to ride a bit off road (more than just gravel), I like knowing that help is close by if needed. I don't think the route is out of civilization, but just in case. Also, it is much more fun drinking local beer in the evenings, if you're in good company.

Thoughts, comments, questions, suggestions, all kinds of feedback is greatly appreciated.

Jesper
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Old 12-22-2011, 12:51 AM   #2
V Saarela
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About the Ukrain:
Saw your other post at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=748355
I was heading Zakopane this summer(on my way home) but instead rush est of Krakow and road through the aboce linked area.
I canīt see there are any problems to across the border at Kroscienco. I have across via Lubycza. Withe EU-member line it sorted out in half an hour. Iīm sure itīs same at Kroscienco.
It seems to take a little bit more time when leaving the country. It took about one hour at Siret. Luckely itīs easier with a motorcycle. If I had drive a car I supose I had still been there

You can see some pics and films from the trip. Film also from the Siret border(they didnīt like my filming) http://www.saarela.se/aktuellt/aktue...16/110816.html

- GPS donīt work
- road signs etc are in "russian", so do write down signs etc before if you are heding to something
- locals have very bad english
- moneychange after border(you can see it in my link)
- Cheap overnight via Booking. com or Hotels.com. Make a call or if you have a pc with you(I had)
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Old 12-22-2011, 02:03 PM   #3
jesperd OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V Saarela View Post
You can see some pics and films from the trip. Film also from the Siret border(they didnīt like my filming) http://www.saarela.se/aktuellt/aktue...16/110816.html
Thanks a lot for the sharing the photos and videos along with description. Did you go towards Hungary before hitting the southern parts of the Carpathians? I couldn't find any images or video of the Transfagarasan nor Transalpina, so just wondering.

Jesper
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:32 AM   #4
V Saarela
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No Transfagarasan, Iīll leave it to next time. I get in to Ukrain via Lubycsa and out via Sirat. Then followed Carpathian mountains in Romain to Hungary, where I turned north and home.

One thing more, people tells storys(yes, itīs true storys) about polices in Ukrain stops you all the time and wants money from you. Donīt show your money, hide them and tell the polices that you are travelling widh visacard and you have no cash on you.(no, I was not stoped) Keep also widh you copys(show them to the police if he wants to see them) registrationpapers of the bike.
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Old 12-24-2011, 04:19 AM   #5
Wildman
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Hi Jesper

What time of year do you plan to travel?

Paul
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Old 12-25-2011, 01:10 AM   #6
V-Twin-Maniac
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maybe this can help you a little:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=728916
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Old 12-25-2011, 01:10 PM   #7
jesperd OP
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Originally Posted by Wildman View Post
Hi Jesper

What time of year do you plan to travel?

Paul
Hi Paul, June 2nd. I expect I'll hit Berlin at about 2-3 pm. I plan on catching the 9 am ferry from Gedser (DK) to Rostock (DE).




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Old 12-25-2011, 05:54 PM   #8
jesperd OP
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Originally Posted by V-Twin-Maniac View Post
Great report. Thanks for sharing.


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Old 01-07-2012, 08:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesperd View Post
Hi,

I am planning on riding along the Carpathians starting in Zakopane, Poland and a little Slovakia. Then into the Ukrainian Carpathians, the Romainan Carpathians, then returning to Sweden (south) via Serbia, Bosnia, Croatia, Slovenia, Austria, and Germany.

Poland
I was actually planning on rushing through Poland along major highways between Berlin and Krakow to get to Zakopane/Tatra Mountains as quickly as possible, but another thread in here got me thinking that might be foolish. Anything along that route that is worth a detour?
If you have time, why not visit the Auschwitz Birkenau site in Oswiecim? It is on your way, and I can recommend the Galicja hotel nearby with its secure garage parking. It is about 10 minutes from Auschwitz and they can supply tickets at discount prices. Also, when you enter the carpark at Auschwitz, the guard might approach you for a "tip" to watch your bike and gear. Tip the man, it's worth it!!
Also worth a visit is Lake Bled in Slovenia. Bit touristy, but nice.
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Old 01-07-2012, 04:08 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by LC8rider View Post
If you have time, why not visit the Auschwitz Birkenau site in Oswiecim?
Yes, Auschwitz, that is a great idea.

Actually, I tried on my last trip. I got there on my way from Krakow to Berlin and thought it would be nice with a couple of hours of cultural and historical break. Unfortunately I could only enter with a guide and as none were available, I only had the option to join the guided group tour which was scheduled to start an hour later.

I really do not like guided group tours. I love setting my own pace, and not being rushed through the exhibit. I want to have the time to take photos, time to think. So I carried on, thinking, I will get another opportunity. Got early to Berlin, there’s a lot to see there as well.

Your suggestion made me study the Auschwitz home page a little more, and it turns out that, as individuals you do not need guides if you’re visiting outside the peak hours. So I’ll start earlier, getting an earlier ferry, ride all the way to Oswiecim, check in to the hotel you suggest (this will be the only hotel I will pre-book as I will arrive late) to see the sites before 10am.

Thanks!
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:59 AM   #11
marian_golonka
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Hey, If you want to see something more than traffic jam and smell more than car pollution odour, try this route instead of shortest proposed by GPS

Krakow-Zakopane
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:41 AM   #12
LC8rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesperd View Post
Your suggestion made me study the Auschwitz home page a little more, and it turns out that, as individuals you do not need guides if you’re visiting outside the peak hours. So I’ll start earlier, getting an earlier ferry, ride all the way to Oswiecim, check in to the hotel you suggest (this will be the only hotel I will pre-book as I will arrive late) to see the sites before 10am.

Thanks!
We were a group of 4 on 2 bikes. We didn't have to go on a tour, we just wandered around where ever we wanted. We stayed quite late into the day when it went quiet to take photos and take in the enormity of its history.
You'll like the hotel - don't have the prawn cocktail unless you like your starter through a straw
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Old 02-03-2012, 08:32 AM   #13
blacktiger
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I followed the Carpathians at the beginning of this tour http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...6#post17036006

Slovakia and the Tatra mountains are really the start of the Carpathian range and were nice. I didn't go through Ukraine because of all the Visa shit. Instead I cut through Hungary which was crap.
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Old 02-03-2012, 11:30 AM   #14
jesperd OP
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I am planning on going via the Tatra mountains, at least the Zakopane part of it. EU, US and Canadian citizens don't need a visa to enter, according to the Ukraine embassy in Copenhagen.

I haven't been to Hungary myself, but your experience is much in line with what others are saying.

Thanks for sharing your RR. Sounds like Baia Mare is worth a detour ;-)

Jesper


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Old 02-09-2012, 04:15 AM   #15
unudani
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Hello ,

When are planning to arrive in Romania, I am from Romania and intend to have a trip on some mountain roads in that period!
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