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Old 01-13-2012, 04:40 AM   #31
unlawfulsm
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Thomasville, GA
Oddometer: 550
Any updates? I am going to get a chance to look at mine this weekend & wanted to see if there was anyone who dove or is everyone just still riding it?
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:25 AM   #32
RED CAT
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Still Waiting!

For my ceramic clutch to arrive. Hopefully next week.
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Old 01-13-2012, 07:12 AM   #33
unlawfulsm
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Ive had some other things to tend to, a leaky fork seal for one, so I plan to drain the trans oil this weekend and hope I don't find any metal on the magnetic plug. From there I guess Ill move onto the throwout bearing.
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Old 01-14-2012, 11:22 PM   #34
RED CAT
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Ok!

Clutch in today and have installed along with Tranny. Very easy considering. Just installed clutch and preasure plates loose, then slid in tranny shaft and bolt up tranny. Spun the ring gear with a screw driver and tightened up the clutch bolts. Seemed easier than the special tool which I didn't have. A buddy and I slid the back half of the bike onto the front half. Went well except for the last inch. Realized the shaft drive ujoint at the rear wheel have come off the splines. Dropped the shaft at the rear wheel and easily slid the back half onto front half and bolted up. Now its seems to be a real bitch to get that drive shaft back on the rear axel. No luck so far. Will keep you posted Monday.
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:49 AM   #35
RJO
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Re-alignment...

You'll probably find that the splines have not engaged at the drive shaft / gearbox joint. These are a bit of a pig to align but if the rear wheel is off and the final drive hinged down the shaft will slide freely in the swinging arm.

Then, at the swinging arm to gearbox joint the black 'gaiter' can be pulled back just enough to slip a couple of right hand fingers in to lift the UJ and align it. Left hand then twists the exposed shaft at the final drive end to get rotational alignment.

It's the only way to do it that I know of. Can take hours of cursing or 2 minutes the way I describe..

Dont ask me how I know

Roger...
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:51 PM   #36
RED CAT
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Splines!

No problem with the splines at the gearbox junction. The shaft is in place. Its at the rear wheel end that they have come apart. Must have happened when we pulled the bike apart originally, just didn't notice till we started putting it back together. I'll do some more cursing tomorrow and if I hold my mouth just right it should go on.
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Old 01-17-2012, 09:31 PM   #37
RED CAT
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Ok!

For those interested. Got her all buttoned up today and hit the magic buttom. Fired right up after giving it a little extra throttle. No rattle but waited till it got good and hot. Still no rattle. Can't take it for a run unfortunately cause its definitely winter right now. Time will tell. So far, so good. All I did was replace the clutch plate and greased the clutch rod where it goes through the preasure plate, where it pushes against the back of the engine and where it meets the slave cylinder. Also greased the splines of course and the 3 pins between the 2 preasure plates. Used the Honda Moly 60 as recommender here. Didn't over do the greasing though cause you don't want any of that flying to the new ceramic clutch. Hope this helps anyone with the same problem. Not saying this is always the case just that it worked for me.
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:57 AM   #38
unlawfulsm
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This weekend I pulled the clutch slave and there is some play in the center bearing, about 1-2mm, not sure if this normal or not. Waiting to hear back before I pull the rest of the bike apart. Good news is that the weather has been super bad since I started taking her apart. Hope to to be able to get it figured out and back on the road asap though. Any thoughts on the bearing in the slave?
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:11 AM   #39
unlawfulsm
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Well to add more confusion to those who come to this thread to diagnose their noise...mine needed a entire transmission rebuild . I replaced the slave as was recommended from many folks including several threads on here. Needed to be done, but was not the cause of the rattle. The rattle was caused by the transmission intermediate shaft not being seated correctly from day 1. Due to this it caused bearings to fail and metal to go everywhere throughout the transmission. So all bearings were replaced and everything was aligned to spec as it should have come from the factory on a non Ocotberfest Monday morning. Picked the bike up last night and rode the 60 miles home and the transmission is noise free and smooth as silk. Going to put about 400-500 miles on it today so we'll see how it holds up. I am hoping for an easy 100k out of this fix. Just one of those weird anomaly's that no one could have diagnosed until it started making noise. By the way, the bike is an 04 GSA that had 26k miles on it when it went into the shop.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:41 AM   #40
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My '05 GS had developed a rattle since about 60K miles. I adjusted the valves and rocker end play, as well as re-synching the TB's with the steppers disconnected. (Yeah I know the haterz say it's useless, but I noticed an improvement in idle quality. Besides, why not have balanced TB's at higher throttle openings?...)

The rattle was still there (a bit less), especially when hot. The fix for me has been Redline Shockproof Heavy Gear Oill. It's very thick and cushions the gears in the tranny. Shifting is still excellent and now the rattles are gone.

YMMV, of course, but now my bike sounds a lot better
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:03 PM   #41
luca9277
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I am glad I came across this thread.

As many here I am experiencing the same issue.

Engine noise at idle which disappears when I pull the clutch in, My bike has 40,000KM on it and it all started 3,000km ago.
I am wondering whether or not it is worthwhile to have it inspected as just pulling the engine apart would cost me a small fortune (I do not trust myself so I would have BMW doing it).

I have noticed the noise didn't get louder lately, I wonder what could happen in the long run if I just let it be..

I was quoted 2,500 Australian $ to replace the final drive if that is actually the issue.
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:41 PM   #42
jaymboze
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Hi All,
My 2006 1200gs also started to make the same rattle but goes away when pulling in the clutch lever.
BMW service manager heard the noise straight away but says not to worry about it as the bike rides ok.
Have now noticed more vibes through the pegs after another 4000km, so will take bike in again to get another opinion.

Might try the slave / push rod replacement as a fix...?

Is this something that can be easily done at home...?

Ragards, James
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:08 AM   #43
Geoff
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A BMW service manager told me the 'box of rocks' noise is normal. My 2000 R1100RT has done this for many years. It ain't broke, so I'm not going to fix it.
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Old 04-05-2012, 12:51 AM   #44
jaymboze
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Hi all,
Just got home after getting a 2nd opinion from a reputable workshop who specialize in BMW bikes.
The mechanic recognized the noise straight away, and his approx. diagnosis is either worn splines on the gearbox input shaft ( the shaft that attaches to the clutch ) or worn bearings in the gearbox.
His advice, after telling me that my bike is NOT the worst he has heard, is to replace the gearbox oil with a thick 85/140hp gearbox oil.
This has helped on previous bikes with the same noise as mine.
He says to keep an ear on things for the next 10,000 km to see how things develop, as the only other option right now is to split the bike and take the box out....can't afford that right now...!
Also says that the bearings can't be diagnosed just by rotating the shaft once the box is out, so it needs to be stripped down for close inspection, which makes sense to me.
Will change oil tomorrow and see how it goes.

Seems to be a fairly common problem....
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Old 04-05-2012, 01:06 AM   #45
jaymboze
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Further to my last post, I just checked the gearbox oil after it has just finished draining, and I am surprised at how dark/discolored the oil is after less than 4000 km...!
Was filled with Motul Gear 300, which is 75W90, the oil recommended by BMW.
Will fill it up with Nulon 85/140 tomorrow and see how we go.
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