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Old 12-12-2012, 02:21 PM   #91
Daithi OP
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Just got the call from Hagon, rear wheel is on it's way and should be with me tomorrow afternoon.



I think the two previous posters have missed the point completely by the way.
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Daithi screwed with this post 12-12-2012 at 02:32 PM
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:04 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by Daithi View Post
Just got the call from Hagon, rear wheel is on it's way and should be with me tomorrow afternoon.

.
Can't wait to see how it looks .
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:20 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
OK if you just want a "look" I can see it..... but no way is that DRZ fork as good as a nitrided USD fork in any way... strength, stiction, triple clamp rigidity are all way better on the USD. The DRZ forks are just CHEAP and are a really old design. As far as the rear shock goes, you get what you pay for . An Ohlins would be a drastic improvement.
USD = Stiction,... or at least all USD forks I saw had a stiction problem.
Even with fancy SKF seals.
Old designs won't have to be bad, and the cartridge damping system is really useful in this fork. (if reshimmed by someone who knows what he is doing, it will be GOOD) but stock Suzuki its not bad at all.
And after all the USD fork is an old desigen to..

Ok that's not really "fair"
But see this '85 KTM

And, a USD is more "stiff"
This will be more stressful for the frame. Actually, i bend my frame with a USD fork in it (the fork is still straight... )

I even heard story's of old factory Suzuki's RM-Z? going to USD forks, but they changed it back to ride side up because they where better. Then there sale numbers dropped so they changed back to USD.....
Costumer didn't want it because of the "old" design.

A good rear shock isn't a problem imo, its the HEAVY final drive that bothers me.... :(
Who can make one under 5KG?
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:40 PM   #94
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I Literally have one of those hanging in my barn
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:47 PM   #95
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I Literally have one of those hanging in my barn
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:56 PM   #96
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:10 AM   #97
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I'm nearly good to go, one thing is bothering me, do I need a rimlock given the weight, torque of the bike and the tyre type (S12) would a rimlock be a good or bad idea ?????
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Daithi screwed with this post 12-18-2012 at 04:18 AM
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:57 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by Daithi View Post
I'm nearly good to go, one thing is bothering me, do I need a rimlock given the weight, torque of the bike and the tyre type (S12) would a rimlock be a good or bad idea ?????
All depends on the tire pressure!!!
On my bike I tried several brands and types of rimlocks.Most of them are not strong enough for the Boxer
When there is 1.8 bar in the tire its ok. But I like to use 1.6 or even 1.2 bar.Depending on the terrain and tire....
The ones from Motion pro are ok.But not good enough.
I'm just about to fit one like this from Talon.
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:20 AM   #99
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Originally Posted by Prutser View Post
All depends on the tire pressure!!!
On my bike I tried several brands and types of rimlocks.Most of them are not strong enough for the Boxer
When there is 1.8 bar in the tire its ok. But I like to use 1.6 or even 1.2 bar.Depending on the terrain and tire....
The ones from Motion pro are ok.But not good enough.
I'm just about to fit one like this from Talon.
That looks the job, I'll use what I have because I'm getting impatient but I'll order one of those and fit it after the next tyre change.


Well the wheel arrived de-chromed and powdercoated and looks great.

I need to extend the linkage to the master cylinder and weld a tab to the old drum brake lever, I want the master cylinder tucked out of the way so I'll mount it inside the subframe with a 6" pushrod.




I needed to shim the wheel so the brake disk wouldn't rub the FD boot which meant the wheels bolts were too short so I turned a new set of shorter cones for the wheel bolts (right of pic below). Also the calliper was rubbing off the spokes but the shim sorted that.




One thing I read in Phil's thread was the calliper needed to be unbolted for the wheel to come out, for some reason I don't need too remove the calliper ???


This is the space I have for the 120/90/18

I'll take a lump hammer to the exhaust box if necessary.


Here you can see the 1mm gap between the FD boot and the rear disk after the 3mm shim was fitted.


Offsetting the wheel means the torque arm needs needs to be offset too, I'll mill 3mm off it then put in a 3mm washer.


One good thing is the disk from the r1100r is the same as the GS one and I have one spare.

I'll have the tyre fitted tomorrow !




DRZ1000GS
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Daithi screwed with this post 01-02-2013 at 04:37 AM
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:11 AM   #100
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Decided to go with a rim locked MICHELIN S12 XC for the back, with 6mm thick heavy duty tube.

I'm wondering if I might not get a 140 in there.
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Daithi screwed with this post 12-19-2012 at 04:58 PM
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:53 PM   #101
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Wheel arrived...



There's 5mm between the swingarm and the tyre, 20mm gap to the exhaust box.



This is it, can't wait to go for a spin on it.



Sidestand is fitted and the angle looks good, I'd like to be rid of the centre stand.


I had a rimlock but it was way too narrow so I made this temporary one.


I've tried to keep the rear brake master cylinder mechanism as tidy as possible....


the plastic cover hides it completely, mounting the reservoir then bleed it.
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Daithi screwed with this post 12-22-2012 at 04:59 PM
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:22 PM   #102
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Looking great Daithi,

I like to see that thing in action next year on the Dutch GS meeting.

The center stand is a good protector for the exhaust ! It could prevent the bike from getting stuck on a tree trunk.
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:15 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prutser View Post
Looking great Daithi,

I like to see that thing in action next year on the Dutch GS meeting.

The center stand is a good protector for the exhaust ! It could prevent the bike from getting stuck on a tree trunk.
Thanks for all the help and advice Prutser, I'm still hoping to get to the rally but I'm also trying to get to Spain at Easter too. Fingers crossed.


I removed the centre stand and will extend the sump guard back to protect the exhaust.

Spot the difference !




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Old 12-23-2012, 02:55 PM   #104
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Thanks for all the help and advice Prutser, I'm still hoping to get to the rally but I'm also trying to get to Spain at Easter too. Fingers crossed
Thats not a hard choice .....boring flat Holland or off road paradise Spain

Did you take the bike for a spin yet?

When I used the shorter torque arm the bottom spring cup did touch the swing arm at full compression.
It might be worthwhile to take of the spring and see if the shock doesn't touch the sw arm when fully compressed.

Bad things could happen if it did.
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:18 AM   #105
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Rear shock looks too short for those long forks. Classic desert sled stance.Might be one reason why you are having such close tolerances between your rear tire/exhaust pipe. I like this build. Lots of work into it and I am sure it will be greatly improved over stock.
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