Utah! Between the Storms

[Thinc2]

For three to four years now, I have wanted to take my first motorcycle camping trip. Every year I tried to make it to Paonia for the BMW rally, and every year either work or family comittments prevented me from making it. It's not all that surprising considering i have a job that requires a certain level of dedication, as well as a young family comprising of a wonderful 5 year old daughter and 1 year old son (plus a great wife :).

But I kept on making plans and for some reason this year the pieces all seemed to fall into place. Without a lot of effort, i suddenly had a trip to Utah planned with another rider (Ed) from work.

After weeks of preparation on my part – bike tuneup, new tires, hydration system in the tankbag, Kaoko throttle lock, new rainsuit, waterproof bags, devising an elaborate system to strap all my gear to the bike and endless other preprations which ultimately resulted in a spreadsheet that categorized where everything would be on the bike (right & left suitcases, on the bike, in the tank bag, in the jacket), I was all set to go on for our Wed – Sunday trip with a departure date of March 30.

Ed asked to make sure I had a good tent and sleeping bag. No problem I replied – brand new Kelty Gunnison 2, and a Kelty sleeping bag rated for 20 degrees. He wasn't too impressed by the 20 degrees, but I was pretty sure we wouldn't be seeing temps much below the low-30's. I was to learn something about truth in advertising...

Now throughout the prep stages Ed had invited some other folks with whom he takes long camping trips every year. Since none of them could make it, they all insisted it was too early in the season for this type of trip (our starting point is Boulder CO, so we had to cross the Divide to get to Utah).

Tuesday morning, March 29 the weather forecast was not good. Over the next 48 hours, Vail got 9� of snow, Steamboat and Telluride got 16� and 19� respectively. We looked at the map and considered going North to Montana, but a call to Ed's son confirmed the front extended that far north. We considered going South to go around the front, but that would have required a loop all the the way down to Santa Fe – too far. So we postponed one week – new departure date set for Wednesday, April 6.




Day 1 – Running Before the Storm:

That Monday, April 4, we again check the weather, and again a front is moving in and fixing to dump snow on the Divide. We had only one chance – instead of leaving on wednesday, we get going right then and there and get over Eisenhower and Vail Pass before the storm hit.

So with an hour's notice, we cancelled our upcoming meetings, called the boss and our wives, went home, jumped on the all-ready packed bikes, and set out for Utah.

The thing is, although I did a lot of camping when I was young, most of it was in Europe, and I've never been motorcycle camping. Nor have I been in the habit of trying to beat storms over the CO passes in pretty cold weather.

So I put on about 6 layers of clothing and went to meet Ed at a starting point – right at noon Monday, April 4.








We took I70 and made it over the passes with at least an hour to spare before it started raining/snowing. It was pretty cold. This was the first time i realized I really need an electric vest to be travelling at this time of year. Our first stop was Glenwood Springs – the first of many gas stops and time to thaw out – and for Ed to extoll the virtues of an electric vest. Too little, too late. No big – we were on our way and had avoided our first storm – awesome! It felt just great to be on the road.


Here's me:





and Ed






As we pulled out of Glenwood Springs, with the smooth air running over my helmet, the odd caccoon of many layers of clothes and wind noise muted by ear plugs, i thought that if I had been at work that afternoon, right at that time (2:20pm) I would be chairing an operations review about an internal application of which I was the owner. I knew it was in good hands, and it was a geat feeling to be on the road, not really knowing the destination, but looking forward to lots of new experiences.

At Grand Junction was got on 141S with the intention of getting a little bit further south to avoid the weather and look for a place to camp. After about 75 miles, we turned onto this dirt road





and found an amazing place to camp






My first “primitive� camp site turned out pretty good. The first night away from city lights – the display of stars was unbelievable, and it would be repeated (and appreciated) every night we were out camping. - Total miles for day 1: 350.


Day 2: Great riding and an Incident:

The next morning found us in good spirrits and ready to head into Utah. Specific destination unknown.






It had been pretty brisk that night and the morning found us brewing hot water for coffee and tea and waitijng for the sun to come up over the canyons. However it would remain in the mid-30's until after lunch when we were well to the South. Add to that the wind chill of high speed riding in some awesome sweepers, and the result is that no pictures were taken this morning.

At Paradox we got on 90 West into Utah and followed it until we ran into 191 at La Sal Junction, just south of Moab. As we followed this South thru Monticello and Blanding the weather got warmer and the scenery changed to the desert/rock mix Utah is known for. I started experimenting with the throttle lock and taking pictures while riding. This is 191 to Blanding.





Over lunch we had decided to take 163 down to Mexican Hat as we had heard this is an amazing road, then head back north to Hite and the northern tip of lake Powell to camp. One thing that became clear over lunch at the A&W in Blanding is that we were clearly in Indian country. The customer base was pimarily Indian (Ute?). The map shows a small Ute reservation nearby, as well as very large Navajo reservatio across the border in Arizona.

Taking the southern loop was a piece of great advice we got from one Ed's friends – 163 from Bluff to Mexican Hat is stunning – high speed sweepers trough a series of canyons and open spaces.












163 hooks up with 261 North at Mexican Hat. Maybe because it was early in the season, and maybe because this road has a three mile section of unpaved road, but there was absolutely no traffic (and no RV's) in this area. We had the roads to ourselves all day – stunning.




The three miles of gravel on 261 are called Moki Dugway and after a day of riding the best twisties and high speed sweepers of my life, this was the icing on the cake. This easy gravel road twists and turns through a sereis of switchbacks up the side of a butte and terminates at the top on a plateau that puts you back on 261.









Hooking up with 95, we passed Natural Bridges National monument and headed north towards Hite and the lower elevations of Lake Powell. Again the ride was not too shabby:





Many of you are familiar with the fact that one very good way to learn more about the plant and animal life of the area in which you are travelling is to examine the plethora of bugs whose remains are stuck to your bike and helmet. Like many of th readers of this list, Ed is extremely well educated, and informed me this is a Sara Orange Tip . I just call it “Splat�.





When we got to Hite, it turns out that this portion of Lake Powell is still completely dry. We later found out that it will fill up later in the season as the runoff begins in earnest. Without lake water to camp by, we decide to continue up 95. The intention was to find a camping spot along the way, but this road is so much fun to ride, we just kept going until 40 miles later we arrived at Hanksville and had dinner at Blondies.

While packing up after dinner, we met a group of Danish tourists in a van packed with beer. Upon commenting how we would love to have them as a chase vehicle, one of the guys offers us a Danish cigarette which we decline. He says he doesn't worry about smoking because:

“The net total of your vices remains constant�.

We pack some supplies and head out on 24 West to find a place to camp. After a few miles we turn off into a very sandy road and Ed's front wheel slides out and his right leg is bent back and gets pinned under the rear case as the bike falls on him. He's in quite a bit of pain when i arrive.

We quickly tear off his luggage and get the bike lifted. Amazing how easy it is to lift a 600lb bike when the adrenaline is running. Turns out he's fine, but it was pretty ifffy for a few minutes.




We decide there's no need to go further and camp within a few hundred yards of this spot.





An awesome ending in another awesome camp site. Total miles: 258


Day 3: 60 mile for a General Store

A pattern is developing – we're slow at getting up and getting packed. The earliest we've been on the road is 0830. This was another cold night for me. I've learned to wear multiple layers at night, including wearing my wool cap and covering myself entirely in my sleeping bag. Before the next trip i definitely need a better bag.

We make it out of the sand and to the road with no problem and procede through the Capital Reef National Park to Torry for breakfast.

From Torrey we head south through the Dixie National Forest towards Boulder. We see some significant changes in elevation this morning – I never suspected the utah canyon lands would get this much snow.



My wife says i look like Robo Cop...

As we approach Bryce Canyon National park, we come upon a series of stunning vistas. It's always a hard choice on whether to keep on riding the great twisties or to stop for pictures.









Upon arriving inPanguitch, we decided we'd go one more town before buying dinner supplies as wanted some ice for our scotch that night.

Turns out the next 6 towns were nothing more than farms or post offices.





60+ miles later, we arrive in Koosharem (on 62) to find they have a General Store. We buy groceries and find a great campsite just outside of town in the woods, high up in the hills.

I finally fix up Ed's chair so he no longer has to sit on the ground:



and we set up camp:





and cook a great homemade dinner




to go along with the scotch and wine we brought from home





Life is Great!




Day 3 miles- Appr 360


Day 4: High Speed Sweepers

I'm learning a lot about tolerating cold nights. For one thing, my Thermarest Pad is only 4 feet long. That means the cold from the ground freezes my feet. Last night at 3am i decided to go on an offensive and see if I can get warm. I put on every layer I had and threw a couple of chemical hand warmer packets in the sleeping bag. They helped for about an hour :)

In the morning I'm pleased to find that no bears had come around to mess with the cereal in my cases, and upon checking my boots, i again am pleased to find no scorpions had crawled in for a rest. (Ed had kindly reminded me of this after I put my boots on in the sandy desert on day 2).

We had heard from various folks that was another major storm headed in from the west and it would dump a bunch of snow on the Divide no later than Saturday. We knew we had to cross back over the passes before it hit, so we decided to head back East towards Moab and then call home to check on the weather forecast. We would then decide whether to stay until Saturday or head back Friday.

We headed back on 24 and looped on 95 back toward Blanding. We covered the 128 miles in under 90 minutes including a 10 minutes stop to take pictures:







Our mpg fell to about 34 from the usual 40 during that high speed stretch.

We arrived in Moab, which was a major disappointment – what a dump- total tourist trap. After being out of towns for the last few days, we stayed just long enough to make some calls and find out the front was in fact moving in quickly. Vail Pass was expecting rain/snow the next morning starting at noon and deteriorating rom there.

Instead of camping along the CO river, we decided to contnue on to Grand Junction, get a hotle room and leave early to beat the storm.

We headed up 128 from Moab along the CO River:




I knew this was to be the last stretch before we hit I70 and stayed on the highway all the home to Colorado – some last pics of a great trip:



Day 4 – about 400 miles.

Day 5 – Just ahead of another storm:

The next morning found us leaving Grand Junction with dark clouds brewing and the wind whipping – we left not more than 15 minutes ahead of the storm and outran it all the way to Vail pass, increasing our margin by at least an hour or more.

Once over Vail Pass, a quick breakfast stop in Frisco with the skiers.



and over Eisenhower and home for reimmersion in normal life.

Total miles – 1653

So was it too early in the season for this trip – absolutely not. Although we hit some cold weather, it was nothing extreme and we had the roads virtually to ourselves. We had to be flexible in our start and end dates to run ahead of the weather, but if anything, that just added to the fun of an awesome trip.

See you in Paonia?

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As reference, Utah portion of the route:

[PaleRider]

Nice trip Thinc2?


I made a quick trip to parts south - New Mexico - last weekend. Made it back before the Monday night small stuff. - P

[rufus]

Great report. To appreciate Moab you need to get out of town. Just use town for its conveniences.

[Sod Buster]

Great pics and ride.

[Motornoggin]

Great report! GOD! I love that part of the country! That is my holy place, my own personal mecca!

Moab's not too bad, it's better than it used to be. I've been through there dozens of times and I've seen it sprout up and die back many times. It's doing better now than I've seen it in a long time.

I love the riding around there!

[sacndogy]

Well done,great ride report.

[EricFoerster]

Nice !!!

[SeanF]

Excellent!

Thank you for sharing.

[Armadillofz1]

spectacular. just as i remember it. just before the 261/163 intersection off to the right there's valley of the gods. it's a fantastic dirt road that loops back to 261 just under the moki switchbacks.

[Logan Black]

Absolutely spectacular
thanks for sharing.

[Scalzitti]

I'm jealous - not only did you guys have a great time, but you documented it. And to top it off you two work well together - I sure wish I could find a riding buddy with the similar freedom to ride that I am lucky enough to have and the desire to ride many miles over varied terrain. Camping too - you guys are living right! Good on ya'!

[lacrestadr]

Excellent report and pictures. That's great country.

[barko1]

Great pics and adventure. Wonderful territory isn't it. Amazes me that people I know spend big buck to go to Paris FR and have no clue what's here. Just as well.


Once you get that vest (and hell get the arms chaps & gloves - Widder) you won't believe you rode without it.

[Thinc2]

Updated with a map to show the route we took while in Utah.

Tim

[mtnxl]

Nice ride Tim
Thanx for sharing
I plan to do a ride sort of like that next month
Hope to meet you in Paionia
Bruce