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Old 01-22-2012, 05:59 PM   #31
Feedback Cycle OP
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I think I can do that. Double strength.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:09 PM   #32
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Continued...

It's been cold. Tools freeze to my gloves. I have to microwave them to make them wearable.
I've looked and looked at the bike. Trying to widen the mounts. Gaining a little here and there. Seriously considering a sub frame. More on that later. It's easier to sit inside and draw.

I keep thinking about the sidecar. Where are the mounts going to fall? Do I want the upper struts to attach higher? Will they have enough support? I start to triangulate and soon I am redesigning.

Photobucket

It's fun so I refine the shapes.
I would like to keep it open for full on hauling when I'm not hauling a passenger. I consider low and high sidewalls.

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I consider using the pipe bender to radius some of the sections for a more resolved look.

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My favorite design has slightly rounded elements. I would create removeable seat mounts and passenger wind protection.
I like the idea of having a seat with room beside it to carry a piece long items. Will I ever need it? That's not the point

In the end, I will probably wind up with an unfinished sidecar with a 5 gallon bucket to ride on.
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:18 AM   #33
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Maybe there's a danger in trying to maintain a multi purpose, interchangeable concept. Perhaps, and it's only a thought, work on an improved chassis that will accept different body styles, then take it from there. I guess this would mean establishing a priority body style to begin with.

However, enjoying the tale so far, and keep warm.
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:51 AM   #34
madeouttaglass
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I am far from an expert on hack building but may I suggest not putting the upper mounts on your upper hack as in some of the drawings? I see the sides folding in without lateral support.
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:46 AM   #35
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Sidecarjohn
I understand that having multi-purposes is multiplying my complexity. I just can't justify the cost/complexity/fuel/handling of a hack if only to carry people is a sheltered tub every now and then and nothing else. On the other end, Being only able to use this as only as a pick-up truck is also unreasonable. This whole project just to see if I can do both. Thanks for your feedback.

Madeouttaglass
I have seen mounts high up on the sides on very rigid structures. If I was willing to triangulate run some bars across the sidecar, I'm sure it could be rigid. But... I agree. I believe I will keep them low.
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:30 PM   #36
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Continued...

I've looked all over the bike trying to find good bolting loacations, etc. The exhaust really mucks op the plan. The aluminum casting for the controls blocks access yet doesn't supply a good foundation. The old centerstand brackets could have worked but they just don't look strong enough.

I've decided (for now) that I am going to see if I can just tweak mount location and arrive at an acceptable format
I know I can improve it but I am unsure how much. On my original layout, the two bottom mounts are too close together. The upper mounts are too low and mount too close together on the bottom. It all stinks.

Photobucket

Since I accept that I will need to move the mounts on the sidecar frame, I can now put them whereever I want.
I can push the bottom clamps further apart by about 1/3. (Unfortunately one would have to climb up the frame)
The upper rear mount can be moved up two inches if I cut off a tab that holds the inner fender. (I can remount). Then I can run the strut behind the passenger foot rest to the back corner. This is a huge improvement. Finally, The front mount gets moved up and out. The strut would run towards the front of the sidecar (or possibly backward on a 45 degree angle to the sidecar).

Photobucket

Over all I think it is improved. Going to mull it over.
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:21 PM   #37
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Just a thought ... cut the 4 - 1 collector , rotate using mandrel bends so that the muffler exits out the left side .






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Old 01-24-2012, 02:20 PM   #38
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Ha! My brother said the same thing. Unfortunately the headers collect on the left side, cut in around the oil filter, then jut out the right side. All a single welded piece I think. Really tight to the engine with only 1/4" to 1/2" spacing.
I could consider a different system... but well prefer not to.

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I might be able to redirect it but would prefer to avoid another project and more cash.
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:34 PM   #39
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In the top pic' of the collector . Cut where the weld is , loosen and rotate the single pipe to the muffler and just use a single 90 degree off the shelf bend ... cost you about ten bucks at most . Re-weld the 90 bend and have it flared so that the existing pipe to the muffler slips inside . When ya make an omelet ya gonna have to break an egg at times





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Old 01-25-2012, 05:09 AM   #40
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I appreciate that this is about creating a sidecar rig, but it seems a shame to have to do too much to this good looking bike.

You mentioned previously a subframe. Why don't you consider this route and so avoid amendment to the bike that could have consequences further down the line.
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:22 AM   #41
val. h.
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Been following this thread with interest. I love conundrems.

If I may be so bold. There seems to be a lot of thought and discussion about where to place the mountings on the frame. In a earlier post you said that you probaly won't ever be taking the sidecar off the bike.

With this in mind, why not simply weld the mounitngs directly to the frame in a more suitable place than where the clamps could fit. This will allow you to place much srtonger mountings too. Also bolting the front upper mount directly to the frame gusset is not a good idea. It is designed to give strength along it's edges and if you appliy sidways forces it will be ripped from the frame quite easily. However welding a tube to the frame tube it's self will give a nice strong place to mount the hack. You caould also extend this mount accross the front on the frame and weld it to the frame on the other side too, making things even stronger. Similar can be done with the rear mount. You might even be able to place it so that you don't have to chop the sidecover up too.

For the bottom mounts you will need to make some sort of sup frame. You mentioned the main stand mounts. These might not be strong enough to take the full load. But they are plenty strong enough to take part of it. You could weld or bolt a new frame under the main frame tube that fits around the exaust and is mounted both sides of the bike. Have a good look at the V-Strom Hack pics that NorthwestRider posted of his build this might give you some ideas of where to go next.

You have allready decided to move the hack chassis mountings, so you have an open book here now and can do almost anything you like.

Good luck with it Val.
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:16 PM   #42
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Continued...

Each of you would convince me, then another would make and entirely different but valid point.


but, it all helped me have a bit of a break through.
Strip it!

I realized I really didn't have a good idea of what was actually there. I was making too many assumptions.

I removed the front air dam. Cool. I dropped the oil cooler and horns. Easy.
I found a seam on the exhaust and loosened it. It finally came loose and suddenly I realized all I have to do is modify the hanger and I can drop the canister down and have plenty of room for a sub frame that wraps around to the other side.

Photobucket

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So simple.
(Dang, these flash photos make the bike look like a pile of crap.)
Going to draw up a sub frame.
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:24 PM   #43
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My rig is completly home made and I struggled with the mounts also.I had never even sat on a rig before I built mine so it was all trial and error.Check out my build to see how I mounted my car,it may help you with yours.

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Old 01-26-2012, 07:32 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feedback Cycle View Post

So simple.

Going to draw up a sub frame.
Surprising what a week can do ...


Have fun .



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Old 01-26-2012, 08:12 PM   #45
cleatusj
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You mite find some ideas in my build. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=648570

One of the things that I did not explain well was that the same type brackets were bolted to the left side front motor mount and center stand bracket with bolts through them into nuts welded inside the square tube of the sub frame.
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