ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-03-2012, 08:13 PM   #1
Fred C. Dobbs OP
Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Winthrop, Wash.
Oddometer: 25
R80 Final Drive...

I've a 1983 R80RT and I have to pull the final drive for a thread repair. The four nuts holding the final drive to the driveshaft appear to be made to accept a twelve-point socket. A 12mm twelve-point socket seems to fit pretty well. Or is there a special type of socket made specifically for that type of nut? My Clymer manual doesn't address this.

Also, what's the best type of thread repair system to fix the driveshaft fill/drain plug holes?

Thanks for any help!
Fred C. Dobbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2012, 08:17 PM   #2
One Less Harley
OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT
 
One Less Harley's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Bowling Green, Ky
Oddometer: 4,597
12 point boxed end wrench as the socket won't reach all four. I don't remember exactly why, clearance issue on one....
__________________
2004 BMW R1150RS
1984 BMW R80G/S
(wrenching index)
2003 Suzuki DRZ 400S (TAT Prep)
One More DRZ does the TAT (Ride Report)

One Less Harley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2012, 08:39 PM   #3
subagon
Hopelessly lost
 
subagon's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Location: Antioch, FL
Oddometer: 569
If you can get a 12 point socket or a 12 point box end wrench on the nut(s), it's what to use. If there's a nut you can't get at with the socket, keep reading...

I have a R80ST, so the final drive is a little different. One of the nuts on my ST is blocked by the lower shock mount, so I can't get a socket OR a box end wrench on it. I used the WRONG tool, an open end wrench, and ^$@*&! up the nut. I then made a special tool from a box end wrench, kind of like a flange wrench but with more "points" (all the flange wrenches I've seen have 6 points). I used a dremel tool with a cutoff disk to cut the box end wrench. I'd also suggest not to cut the opening as large as I did. Make it as small as you can and still get on the nut. You can always cut more off, but not add it back




I was able to get this on the nut, but the open end wrench had done it's work and rounded off the corners making it so no wrench could get a good grip. Vise grips then trashed it some more, big fail. I ended up using a cold chisel to get ti off. Just make a notch with the cold chisel and then start tapping the nut at an angle to get it off. Super size picture here if you want to see the notch in the nut.

__________________
Mike
Antioch, FL - Hopelessly lost, but making good time
Bike picts

subagon screwed with this post 01-03-2012 at 08:52 PM
subagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2012, 11:22 PM   #4
Wirespokes
Beemerholics Anonymous
 
Wirespokes's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon
Oddometer: 7,822
Do a search for the thread repair - this was all hashed over a few months ago. Perhaps someone knows where it is and can post a link.

We need to have a thread with links to all of these repairs so we don't have to start a new one every time, or explain the same stuff over and over.
__________________
Wanted: Dead, smashed, crashed or trashed gauges
BMW GAUGE REPAIRS - TACH*SPEEDO*CLOCK*VOLT METER *PODs & LIGHT BOARD*
Wirespokes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2012, 12:40 AM   #5
boxerboy81
Stay Horizontal
 
boxerboy81's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Oddometer: 2,170
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred C. Dobbs View Post
I've a 1983 R80RT and I have to pull the final drive for a thread repair. The four nuts holding the final drive to the driveshaft appear to be made to accept a twelve-point socket. A 12mm twelve-point socket seems to fit pretty well. Or is there a special type of socket made specifically for that type of nut? My Clymer manual doesn't address this.

Also, what's the best type of thread repair system to fix the driveshaft fill/drain plug holes?

Thanks for any help!

The oem tool kit has the correct ring spanner to remove the four bolts. That's all that's needed.
boxerboy81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2012, 04:31 AM   #6
bikerfish
flyfishandride
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: western pa
Oddometer: 1,402
yep,, 12mm box wrench.
bikerfish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2012, 05:08 AM   #7
hardwaregrrl
You talkin' to me?
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 6,875
This is in your BMW tool kit.



You may have the grind the outside down a bit to get proper clearance.

And while you're at it, look at this.
hardwaregrrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2012, 06:53 AM   #8
subagon
Hopelessly lost
 
subagon's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Location: Antioch, FL
Oddometer: 569
Quote:
Originally Posted by boxerboy81 View Post

The oem tool kit has the correct ring spanner to remove the four bolts. That's all that's needed.
I can't speak to what will/won't work on the RT, but the R80ST and R80G/S has one nut that you can't remover with a socket or a box end wrench. The lower shock mount blocks the socket and the nut is too close to the drive shaft to allow fitting a box end wrench on. This is why i had to modify a box end wrench the way I did.

This isn't the best picture to show this, but it's what I have...

You can see the lower shock mount that blocks nut from a socket. This same nut doesn't allow a box end due to the clearance between the nut and the drive shaft housing. I cut out the back side of the box end to remedy the clearance problem.

__________________
Mike
Antioch, FL - Hopelessly lost, but making good time
Bike picts
subagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2012, 07:11 AM   #9
bikerfish
flyfishandride
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: western pa
Oddometer: 1,402
I've had no problem using the factory supplied wrench on my G/S rear drive. might be some manufacturing tolerance issues.
I've had the rear drive out of the damn thing more than I care to talk about.
bikerfish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2012, 07:16 AM   #10
Airhead Wrangler
Adios Mexico
 
Airhead Wrangler's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Back in Seattle, FINALLY
Oddometer: 6,325
Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerfish View Post
I've had no problem using the factory supplied wrench on my G/S rear drive. might be some manufacturing tolerance issues.
Tolerances indeed. The weld on my swingarm behind those nuts is thicker than it's supposed to be and doesn't allow the factory wrench or any other box end 12mm that I've tried to fit well on all but one of them. I can just BARELY grip the nut by cocking the wrench on at a weird angle. Not ideal. The open 12 pointer is the way to go for me. They must have used something like that at the factory or they wouldn't have been able to assemble my bike.
__________________
R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
Airhead Wrangler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2012, 05:36 PM   #11
subagon
Hopelessly lost
 
subagon's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Location: Antioch, FL
Oddometer: 569
Glad I'm not the only one with clearance issues. I never thought it might be a production issue, i.e. thick weld. I just couldn't figure out why it would be designed the way mine is
__________________
Mike
Antioch, FL - Hopelessly lost, but making good time
Bike picts
subagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2012, 07:55 PM   #12
Fred C. Dobbs OP
Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Winthrop, Wash.
Oddometer: 25
R80 Final Drive..

Thanks for all the replies. I assumed the twelve-point wrench/socket was what I needed, but wanted to be sure--I have enough buggered stuff on my plate at the moment. No clearance issues on my bike either, which is a plus. And I searched the 'thread repair' posts and am going to have Time Serts installed to fix the damage properly.
Fred C. Dobbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2012, 08:07 PM   #13
subagon
Hopelessly lost
 
subagon's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Location: Antioch, FL
Oddometer: 569
Post your comments about the Time Serts repair when finished. I have a striped out drain plug on my final drive and I'm not sure to try a thread repair or tap it out one size larger.
__________________
Mike
Antioch, FL - Hopelessly lost, but making good time
Bike picts
subagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 02:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014