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Old 04-09-2013, 09:33 AM   #541
Renner
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...so we're wondering why the key in the ignition switch is 'hot'
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:41 AM   #542
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...so we're wondering why the key in the ignition switch is 'hot'
I was thinking the blinker housing was hot...the switch looks to be well grounded.
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:13 AM   #543
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I was thinking the blinker housing was hot...the switch looks to be well grounded.
yes it does and you could be right.

but why the arcing & sparking when the key-ring /dangling key brushes the headlamp support with the switch in the on position (as I understand it)?
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:57 AM   #544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renner View Post
yes it does and you could be right.

but why the arcing & sparking when the key-ring /dangling key brushes the headlamp support with the switch in the on position (as I understand it)?
the sparking is when the dangling key touches the turnsignal stalk - you can just barely see the charred spot just to the right of the tip of the key in this foto:

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Old 04-09-2013, 12:08 PM   #545
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Ah... thanks for aiding my meager understanding and poor reading skilz..

'course if you'd have stuck to OEM parts...
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:16 PM   #546
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Hi all:)

The fuse had indeed blown. First I blamed Mike V. for hexing my bike out of spite;), ?;)
Spite? You mean because I'm a period correct guy and my turn signals work without fireworks? That hurt.

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Old 04-09-2013, 02:01 PM   #547
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I don't understand. The turnsignal stalk is hot and insulated from the headlight ear (chassis)?? And the helmet lock key contacts the stalk/housing, shorts and blows the fuse?

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Bill Harris screwed with this post 04-09-2013 at 07:05 PM
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:12 PM   #548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
the helmet lock key contacts the stalk/housing, shorts and blows the fuse?
correct.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
The turnsignal stalk is hot and insulated from the healight ear (chassis)??
that appears to be the question...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
I don't understand.
me niether!;)
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:17 PM   #549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benthic View Post
correct.



that appears to be the question...



me niether!;)

Voltmeter. One leed on ground, the other on the stalk. Turn the blinkers on.

I'd say one of the wires in your blinker has some torn up insulation or wasn't installed right at the factory.
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:45 PM   #550
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The older blinkers (such as my alu 74 R90/6 ones) (negative-)earth through the stalk to the frame. There is no negative wire.
On your aftermarket the stalks appear insulated from frame/earth, but inside the indicator the stalks may actually be connected to one side of the +/- wires (the intended negative) so they can be used on bikes that earth through the stalks, they may or may not also be able to be wired for positive or negative earth (different aftermarket vintage looking blinkers are different).
You may have hooked them up wrong. Being insulated stalks, depending on how they are wired and the switch/flasher they might work just fine wired the wrong way, but the stalks might be hot, and earthing against the dangling key...
A quick check around with a volt meter should solve it.

It seems hard to imagine for me that the key/ignition is hot without it already shorting out as it is bolted with metal to metal to metal to earth. I think the stalk is hot.... and btw, I am terrible at auto-electrical stuff

edit- in other words, the solution might be to just switch the wires inside the blinkers/indicators... and if it is not, then there might be some very telling smoke that will help diagnose the problem...
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:56 PM   #551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontic View Post
...inside the indicator the stalks may actually be connected to one side of the +/- wires (the intended negative) so they can be used on bikes that earth through the stalks,...
+1. This was my first thought.
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:09 PM   #552
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Fixed it! I picked up a test light on the way home and yes, the turn signal stalk gets "hot" everytime the light bulb comes on. Both turn signals do this. The fastening screw seems to provide the conduit for the electricity. I insulated the tab with electrical tape and was diligent about isolating the screw. I think I have stopped the hotness in the turn signal stalk. The test light indicates no power flowing into the stalk. victory!;)





Everything is working again now. i'm going to do something else with the helmet lock key anyway - i didn't like the dangling.

thanks for the help everyone!
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:25 PM   #553
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Yeah, what Ontic said...

This is a temporary fix that will cause you headaches.

The insulated, center contact of the bulb holder must be positive. The shell of the bulb holder must be negative and may or may not be grounded to the stalk (and/or the chassis ground).

Somehow I'll betcha that the polarities got reversed on installation: the center contact is negative (ground) and the shell (and turn signal body) are positive and hot. There appear to be fiber insulating washers on the turn signal stalk bolt, which is the only thing that kept to from blowing from the beginning. By isolating the bulb holder shell with electrical tape the problem is being masked and may appear again.

Connect the wires to the bulb socket so that the center contact is +positive and the shell is -negative, which is the standard procedure. You may have to run an additional ground wire from the shell and stalk body or eliminate the insulating fiber washers where it bolts to the headlight ear.

You'll be happier and the Universe will be more in synch...

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Old 04-09-2013, 08:19 PM   #554
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+1, especially
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris
Connect the wires to the bulb socket so that the center contact is +positive and the shell is -negative, which is the standard procedure.
--Bill
IOW reverse the connectors, and
Quote:
Originally Posted by benthic
...I have stopped the hotness ...
oh, that won't do at all ...
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:16 AM   #555
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hmmm...
I didn't know the signals could be installed wrong. when i got them, they didn't come with ANY installation instructions, just 2 wires hanging out, so i connected them to the 2 wires coming from the bike. I'll play around tonight, and hopefully get the hotness back;)

thanks everyone!
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