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Old 02-19-2012, 08:16 AM   #91
benthic OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renner View Post
When I looked at that bolt in a previous pic I thought, 'maybe I should mention not to remove that bolt.'

Did you ask Stoner how much for a good-used transmission?

(...just don't screw with the phillips-head screw...)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
My first thought was "Argghh! Doesn't that hold something internal, like something on the shift mechanism?" But maybe I'm thinking four-speed or /2 trannys.

Change those inline fule filters, they look like they've been there a while, and also, drain and pull the tank and check the "filter socks" at the petcocks. They'll probably need cleaning. And plug up the petcock fittings and slosh some gas around in the tank-- there is probably sediment and dirt collected. Drain, dispose of humanely.

Lots of things still to check out on this old girl...
So, have I messed up my transmission by removing that bolt? :(

I have new fuel line and in-line filters coming, as well as pet cock filters and parts. - Disposing of gas humanely, can i store it with my used oil and hypoid and deposit with napa at a later date, or must gas be treated differently?

Thanks guys!
Spencer
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:24 AM   #92
apt13
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pretty sure that bolt just holds down the flat bar that holds the air box down? I've had mine off a number of times, but i didn't squirt anything down in the hole either, haha. the bolt isn't that long, i can't imagine it holding something else in place. but i have obviously been wrong (a number of times) before. haha.

i'm jealous of your new dual fork setup. wish i had the coin to go for that.
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:44 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
My first thought was "Argghh! Doesn't that hold something internal, like something on the shift mechanism?" But maybe I'm thinking four-speed or /2 trannys.
Pretty much my thoughts exactly, but I wanted to refresh my memory before saying the sky is falling.

IIRC now, it's a socket head cap screw (SHCS aka allan bolt) that holds an internal component, (...shift fork adjustment bar?)... now I need to go look
(and I hope to know what I'm doing with transmissions one of these days :headslap )

all this goes to show that I don't clean under that bar

regarding extra gas: depending on how clean it is I have a friend that either 1) puts it back in the tank. 2) keeps it in a glass jar for occasional parts cleaning or 3) puts it in a car gas tank.
So far he's managed to dodge the EPA successfully.

I believe NAPA or other FLAPS won't take it.
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Renner screwed with this post 02-19-2012 at 09:13 AM
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:27 AM   #94
Mike V.
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Spencer,

If memory serves me...

The threaded hole in the top of the transmission is for the bolt that captures the metal clip that the clam shell halves slide under. But does not secure anything internally inside the transmission. Have a look at the photo you posted on page #6, post #78. That threaded hole is open to the transmission interior so if you plan on doing some cleaning be sure to plug it with a bolt to protect any foreign material from entering the transmission. I normally use a small smear of thread sealer on the bolt threads during final reassembly to secure a good seal. Your choice. As someone mentioned earlier - don't mess with the phillips head screw, long $tory if you remove that.
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Mike V. screwed with this post 02-19-2012 at 10:35 AM Reason: spelling, ugh.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:32 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
snipped...
That nut in the airbox? It is probably 12mm wrench size and propbably came from the lower attachment stud on the airbox covre (like just below the brether hose in your photo). Someone dropped it, it scurried under the spring metal clip on the tranny. My first guess.
+1 with Bill.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:56 AM   #96
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Thanks guys!
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:27 AM   #97
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It's that little phillips head screw next to what you are asking about that you do not want to remove. It holds the oil baffle plate that gets oil to the front output bearing and shaft.

supershaft screwed with this post 02-19-2012 at 12:00 PM
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Old 02-19-2012, 05:30 PM   #98
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As far as old gas goes, got a mower? I always throw it in my mower or in my 2 stroke mix for the chainsaw and such.
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:13 PM   #99
Bill Harris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renner
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
My first thought was "Argghh! Doesn't that hold something internal, like something on the shift mechanism?" But maybe I'm thinking four-speed or /2 trannys.


Pretty much my thoughts exactly, but I wanted to refresh my memory before saying the sky is falling.

IIRC now, it's a socket head cap screw (SHCS aka allan bolt) that holds an internal component, (...shift fork adjustment bar?)... now I need to go look
(and I hope to know what I'm doing with transmissions one of these days :headslap )
Yep, I jumped the gun on that. It's the two allen-head bolts on the 4-speed /5 and earlier trannys that have to not be touched-- they are on eccentrics and control the shift fork engagement.

However, it got me to thinking-- for a while I've had a wee bit of oil weepage on the back of my tranny. Not much, just enough to keep it oily. I replaced the rubber seal on the clutch release piston but it still seeps. I wonder if it could be that bolt that holds the springy-retainer down? May need snugging or a bit of thread sealant...
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:55 PM   #100
benthic OP
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Hi all:)

Well i got 3 tasty boxes of parts today - 2 from Ted Porter and 1 from Bing. Then I got to re-assembling the bike tonight. I put the new fuel line together with the new in-line filters, put the airbox retaining plate back on, and started putting the airbox back together only to find that if I wanted to put the top cover back on, I'd have to take the right clamshell back off.



I tell you what though - you guys warned me about the front cover shorting out the diode board, and I was going to disconnect the battery before i did that, but you didn't warn me that there is something on the top that will also throw a spark if you touch it wrong! While I was wiggling the top cover in, I must have touched something bad. I saw a spark, and immediately disconnected the battery. I hope everything is ok :/ anyway, i got it back on but the snorkel is a freaking pain in the ass to get back on the top cover. the 2 piece mesh screen? the 2 little clips on the inside? really? with my giant hands it was a challenge.

The airbox itself wasn't to bad - Mike had warned me that getting the screw all the way through the filter to the recieving thread was a pain, but that was easy if you look up through the air tube holes. tightening the bolt that holds the right clamshell on was a pain though. I guess i need some smaller wrenches.

hey, you know that mystery nut and washer I found in the airbox? well mystery solved. that holds the choke assembly onto the left clamshell. hooray for parts accounted for. boo for the choke not working as smoothly as it did before. Not sure what I did wrong...

I also put a new brake cable on. Is there a trick to this? I had to squeeze the arm on the master cylinder with some pliers to be able to get the little nubbin into the cradle.



annndd, that's it for tonight. I hope to get the rest back together by this weekend for some riding and tuning...

'Night!
Spencer
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:45 PM   #101
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it gets easier each time

before you know it: piece of cake.

now sparking the top cover...
that never occurred to me.
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Old 02-22-2012, 05:25 AM   #102
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looking good. man your experiences are so similar to mine last year it's scary, haha. luckily for me, the previous owner had a new diode board installed, and it was beaten into my head before i started working on it to always unhook the negative battery cable (better from the battery rather than always unhooking the vent screw, as people tend to say it strips easily).

not sure what would be spaking from the top, i always have a hard time getting the bottom cables and rubber dohicky in the bottom groove of the cover plate when putting it back on. i guess not getting it in the groove and pinching the cables isn't a good idea. but i can't remember anything on the top of the cover needing any special treatment, but i suppose my diode board is different and situated differently.

the new brake cable is a pain in the butt to get on the master cylinder. i feel like i broke all my fingers until i figured out the best way to squeeze that lever back. having the "official" master cylinder feeler gauge is well worth tracking down if you don't already have it. makes adjustment of the master cylinder much easier.

when i redid my choke assembly i also found it much harder to move the lever, i think it's because i just tightened the nut to far down, as the bolt goes all the way through the assembly from what i remember. might have been easy to actuate since the nut wasn't even on? haha.

i need to get back to my bike and figure out my brake problem! i'm missing some odd nice weather!

have fun!
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Old 02-22-2012, 05:35 AM   #103
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Quote:
but you didn't warn me that there is something on the top that will also throw a spark if you touch it wrong! While I was wiggling the top cover in, I must have touched something bad. I saw a spark,
The top cover can contact the "battery" terminal of the solenoid whilst it's being wiggled back on. Good practice is to disconnect the battery whenever you are working on something even remotely electrical. Live and learn.

Quote:
tightening the bolt that holds the right clamshell on was a pain though.
The 12mm box-end in the toolkit is perfect for that.

Quote:
I had to squeeze the arm on the master cylinder with some pliers to be able to get the little nubbin into the cradle.
Explain more. If the clevis-pin that the cable-end fits into is not absolutely free to pivot in the arm as the cable is pulled, the cable will flex at that point and break.
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Old 02-22-2012, 05:38 AM   #104
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Sparking from the top cover is the starter (+) wire, you'd be well served to remove the starter cover again to ensure that wire isn't sticking up to far (possibly rubbing the cover when installed).

I set a bike on fire neglecting this detail...
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:56 AM   #105
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I think he'll be OK-- look at the second photo in Post#81 and it looks that the starter wire is positioned correctly. BUT, that is always a good detail to remain aware of...
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