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Old 01-12-2012, 08:58 PM   #16
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It could be a combination of factors...tire pressure, tire tread, weight distribution, throttle/brake input, etc. If you're getting your weight as far forward as practical, by sitting way forward and extending your inside leg way forward, you can start experimenting with tire tread and tire pressure.
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:46 PM   #17
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If you have a patch of sand/pine needles/leaves/decomposed granite in the apex of a corner with otherwise great traction, when your front tire hits that patch it is going to want to slide/washout no matter what type of bike you are riding or what tires you have. Depending on many different factors as the front tire rolls off the patch you may be able to collect the bike back up and go on your merry way. Then again you may be beyond the point of no return and you are going to go down.

The solution is to spot such obstacles well before you reach them and adjust your line to avoid the problem.
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:44 PM   #18
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So what did the shop actually do? If was only lower the rear by using the alternate set of holes, I understand are on the stock shock, they only did half the job.

I believe to lower the front requires them to do something with the spacer inside the forks. Not owning one I am not sure how it is done. If they slid the forks up in the triple tees, that will work if it lowers the front similar to the change in the rear.

If they did nothing to the front, they have changed your rake and trail. In other words, created a geometry problem.

This is what should have been done from a guy who specializes in Dr's

Hi You have two positions on your rear shock for the lower mounting bolt to go through just go with the upper one.
for the front you have a steel spacer just under the fork cap. You must remove it and place it under the damper rod piston. This will require removal and disassembly of the front forks. This also will make your kick stand pretty much unusable but [COLOR=#0000ff !important][COLOR=#0000ff !important]Suzuki[/COLOR][/COLOR] makes the shorter kick stand for the 650 that has this modification I am not sure if it comes with the bike when bought new. Hope this helps feel free to contact me any time.
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:46 PM   #19
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weight distribution

You have not mentioned what is hung on the rear. Rack and trunk, and gear weight will affect front wheel traction.

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Old 01-13-2012, 02:15 AM   #20
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When you lower a bikes rear suspension, you have to lower the front as well. You should be able to loosen the fork clamps and slide the forks up.

If the forks are low in the clamps (pushed down), the bike tends to handle like a chopper, to high and it feels like your driving a shopping cart.

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Old 01-13-2012, 02:53 AM   #21
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Had similar problems when I first got mine. Got rid of the tyres, beefed up the suspension and all good.
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:07 AM   #22
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Junk the Bridgestones and put on a decent set of tires. I like the Pireillis, Scorpions for pavement biased riding or the MT 21's for off pavement riding.
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:38 AM   #23
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It was lowered correctly in the front; although, I think I'm going to move the spacer and put it in the taller position front and rear and see how I like it. Maybe in a few weeks.

No additional weight on the bike (i.e., racks).

I have bottomed the suspension a couple times, so that needs to be addressed either way at some point.
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:49 AM   #24
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Sliding the ft end is the one thing my DR 650 doesnt do,it always tracks good and steers well considering what an overweight off road bike it is. You mention sand in corners,any bike will slide the tires in sand,ft or rear.
The stock tires are street tires styled to look sorta like dirt tires. Try riding a 1972 DT1 Yamaha if you really want some ft end sliding going on.
Some bikes around at times
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:11 AM   #25
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I ride a XR650L and I had a bit of a struggle with this at first. Turns out I didn't have the rear sag set properly. The bike felt twitchy. I went to some kenda trakmasters but it didn't solve all my trouble. I then set my rear sag to about 4 inches. Wow, it is like a whole different bike now. I feel comfortable breaking the rear tire free a bit in the off road corners now. Another thing that helps is scooting up on the tank in a corner. Load up the front end as much as you can, plant the tire, unload the back a bit, it really helps. One thing I'm trying to get at here is if the rear is overly stiff in comparison to the front you will get some washout. So check to see if they lowered the back too. You never know, dealers can be kind of shady.
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Old 01-13-2012, 10:08 AM   #26
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That’s what I’d been reading on other forums, related to dirt riding, and why I was asking here (although trying to get at answers more related to DRs).

I think I’ve got a couple things going on. When I’m riding more aggressively, I’m changing riding position a lot and I think it’s happening less when that’s the case (you don’t notice what’s not happening); although I was riding way too fast on tight twistys and had it happen as well. So, I think it’s likely tires, tire pressure, suspension and riding position. I have a really hard time getting the back tire to slide related to cornering (it’s much more planted than the front) and I think that’s more suspension related. I’ll start with tires/tire pressure and also check my current suspension settings, as it seems a lot of dirt riders consider this issue one of suspension settings.

Anyway, thanks all. I’ll make some incremental changes and see if I can’t get it hammered out.
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Old 01-13-2012, 01:51 PM   #27
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I have a DR350SE and had/have similar issues even after riding it for four years now. The 350's are known for poor handling in corners but with a good set of tires and knowing the limitations I've managed to overcome the issue.

From a riding stand point going into a corner with hard packed dirt and sand or small pebbles can be tricky sometimes. You need to know your limit and the bike's handling limit. Just last weekend I was riding with a friend on some hard dirt pack forest roads with a sand covering and several time I started to slide in turns. I had to slow down and just play it kool. I'm running dirt tires so I can imagine that running a ds tire I'd been on the ground a few times.

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Old 01-13-2012, 02:23 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
It was lowered by the dealer, the factory way.
What does this mean? Dealers have been known to screw things up. Does it mean they modified the internals? Or did they install different links and just slide the forks in the triples? If it's the later, I'd suspect that may be the issue.

Check your sag (front and rear). My old KTM 625SXC was horrible in this regard, front end felt like it always wanted to wash out. I knew the stock rear spring was way undersprung. When I tried to set the rear sag I couldn't get the rear into the correct range. I went from a 6.3 to 8.0 spring which let me dial in the rear sag and it was night and day difference.

This said, the above was pretty much on decent traction surfaces (that the front end felt unstable). Washing out on lower traction surfaces, sand etc could be part technique, part above, part something else.

Still, I'd double check that the lowering was done correctly.

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Old 04-28-2013, 11:39 AM   #29
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A little get off while riding in Wayne NF yesterday. I think I had too much air in front tire. I've had a problem of the front end washing out for a while now so any advice from you guys would be appreciated. I do have the forks lowered/pulled up in triple tree about 3/4" and rear shock preload to the max. I'm thinking I have too steep steering angle now. I'm leaning toward suspension setup as problem. :(

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Old 04-28-2013, 11:51 AM   #30
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My front end wash's out when I screw up
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