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Old 01-23-2012, 07:44 AM   #31
High Country Herb
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Western Sierras
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I love that radiator gaurd! I have heard the Evotech made for my bike is so dense that is causes the fan to run more often: no good. The TT gaurd looks like it will block everything but air. Unfortunately, they don't make one for my Aprilia, so I'm thinking about getting the palmerproducts.co.uk gaurd.

I have also thought about removing my lower fender. Have you noticed additional mud build-up on the radiator without the lower fender?
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:22 AM   #32
toro618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WW Ronin View Post
Toro - Thanks for pointing out the line rubbing issue. Are you talking about the diagonal piece that slants up to the instrument cluster right above where the T is mounted?
Took a picture with my phone so hope it's clear enough. I circled the area that my brake line is rubbing against.

In this photo it appears like the black banjo on the T fiiting is the culprit....it's just an illusion. The cause is from the brake like that's attached to the right side of the T fitting.
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:40 PM   #33
Ronin ADV OP
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Toro
Thanks for the picture, I'll keep an eye on that spot.

High Country Herb
I haven't had it out yet in any real mud, but since it just rained like hell here this week I'll probably be testing that soon enough


Dan
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2010 BMW F800GS, 2011 Yamaha WR250R, 2011 Honda Ruckus, 2013 KTM 500 EXC
Up the WABDR, F800GS Stealth Bike Build, WR250R Scotts Damper Install
Red dirt, rocks and sand; Riding the southern UTBDR, WR250R vs EXC 500 - a comparison
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:09 PM   #34
angrywhiteguy
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Re the voltmeter

Is the voltmeter's backlight always on? I just got one and the light doesnt go out....battery issues?
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:33 PM   #35
Ronin ADV OP
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Yeah, I had that same concern but it does eventually go out. It would be a bit ironic if the device you get to watch over the battery causes it to prematurely die.

According to the Argus website the Battery Bug draws power equivalent to a car digital clock and would take > 5 months to deplete a battery that is not charging.
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2010 BMW F800GS, 2011 Yamaha WR250R, 2011 Honda Ruckus, 2013 KTM 500 EXC
Up the WABDR, F800GS Stealth Bike Build, WR250R Scotts Damper Install
Red dirt, rocks and sand; Riding the southern UTBDR, WR250R vs EXC 500 - a comparison

Ronin ADV screwed with this post 01-24-2012 at 09:19 AM Reason: additional info
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:13 AM   #36
Ronin ADV OP
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Someone asked earlier about the mirrors. Here are a pics with the HDB mirrors in and out.









They work well and are easy to pull in and out although I find you need to tighten the main bolt down quite a bit or they will move in the wind at highway speed. It also leaves a nice open view where the stock mirrors were. I may find some future use for the stock mirror attachment points but for now I just capped them.





As it turned out, the only place locally I could find these M10 x 16mm stainless allen head bolts was Fastenal, and they made me order a package of 10. So if anyone is pulling their mirrors and they want a couple to cap the attachment points, shoot me a PM and I'll send you two.
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2010 BMW F800GS, 2011 Yamaha WR250R, 2011 Honda Ruckus, 2013 KTM 500 EXC
Up the WABDR, F800GS Stealth Bike Build, WR250R Scotts Damper Install
Red dirt, rocks and sand; Riding the southern UTBDR, WR250R vs EXC 500 - a comparison
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Old 01-26-2012, 11:30 AM   #37
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So look what came in the mail today:


Looks like it will fit.


Old OEM plastic piece out of the way.


Three bolts and some loc-tite later:


It's too clean, time to go get some dirt on it.


This is one beefy, quality made piece of kit. Expensive but definitely looks like it will protect the case. Thanks to Stephan at Scefffelmeier Metall for building such a great piece and thanks to Lukas for bringing it to the ADV community attention and setting up the group buy.
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2010 BMW F800GS, 2011 Yamaha WR250R, 2011 Honda Ruckus, 2013 KTM 500 EXC
Up the WABDR, F800GS Stealth Bike Build, WR250R Scotts Damper Install
Red dirt, rocks and sand; Riding the southern UTBDR, WR250R vs EXC 500 - a comparison
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:06 PM   #38
Buster714
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sprock cover

Beefcore! Do you have the link to the GB?
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:58 AM   #39
runnin4melife
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WW Ronin,

Why did you relocate the T brake line hookup as opposed to running a dual banjo at the original ABS hook up near the stearing stem? I am looking at mine and that looks like the easiest option but if it is and wasn't utilized is there a reason, like it didn't work etc...?

Adam

I also PM'd you regarding some other mods if you could hit me back.
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:05 AM   #40
MCMXCIVRS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runnin4melife View Post
WW Ronin,

Why did you relocate the T brake line hookup as opposed to running a dual banjo at the original ABS hook up near the stearing stem? I am looking at mine and that looks like the easiest option but if it is and wasn't utilized is there a reason, like it didn't work etc...?
Some have done it that way.

The problem is that there are two axis of motion involved; suspension action and steering. By using the T fitting, the two actions are managed seperatly. The line from the ABS line at the steering head to the T flexes only for steering, the two lines from the T to the calipers flex only for suspension action. This makes for much less twisting and flexing of the lines and reduces the potential for binding and chafing.

I did my lines this way and have run the setup for over a year now with no issues. There is a lot of stuff in the way and not much space for the lines around it all in the area of the steering head. The reduced potential for catching on something is well worth the extra cost and effort in my opinion.
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Old 04-03-2012, 01:34 PM   #41
señormoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dendrophobe View Post
Have you sized that up at all? The 950SE fender looks the same as the 690, but is a bit bigger... Most people switching over on the 800 or the KTM 950/990 Adventure have found that it's a tad too large. If you have the opportunity, try putting the 690 and 950SE fenders side by side...
Turns out the 950SE fender fits like a charm:


I have a 690 SM fender and a 525XCW fender that I'll take side by side pics of for you. The difference is rather dramatic :)
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Old 04-03-2012, 01:42 PM   #42
runnin4melife
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCMXCIVRS View Post
Some have done it that way.

The problem is that there are two axis of motion involved; suspension action and steering. By using the T fitting, the two actions are managed seperatly. The line from the ABS line at the steering head to the T flexes only for steering, the two lines from the T to the calipers flex only for suspension action. This makes for much less twisting and flexing of the lines and reduces the potential for binding and chafing.

I did my lines this way and have run the setup for over a year now with no issues. There is a lot of stuff in the way and not much space for the lines around it all in the area of the steering head. The reduced potential for catching on something is well worth the extra cost and effort in my opinion.
That makes sense, I figured that was the primary reason for that. Do you happen to have the lengths of the brakelines you utilized? Also which fork guards did you use? I have been trying to determine if I will modify the lower fender to retain the OEM guards or install something else. I have the knowledge to do a custom job I am just in a poor location away from my tools (military moved me...)
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:26 AM   #43
dendrophobe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by señormoto View Post
Turns out the 950SE fender fits like a charm:


I have a 690 SM fender and a 525XCW fender that I'll take side by side pics of for you. The difference is rather dramatic :)
Looks good! I'll be interested to see the difference... I have Lukas building me a set of forks, and I'm probably getting a new fender for when I paint my Touratech tank... Might have to go with the 990 version!
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:46 PM   #44
MCMXCIVRS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runnin4melife View Post
That makes sense, I figured that was the primary reason for that. Do you happen to have the lengths of the brakelines you utilized? Also which fork guards did you use? I have been trying to determine if I will modify the lower fender to retain the OEM guards or install something else. I have the knowledge to do a custom job I am just in a poor location away from my tools (military moved me...)
Brake line info in this post

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=142

I just kept the original fork guards by cutting them off the low fender.
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:27 PM   #45
Ronin ADV OP
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Sorry about the slow response. I haven't really been paying attention to my own thread.
Yeah the brake line lengths are noted above and also cross referenced in the first part of this thread. Those lengths worked out perfectly for me. As far as the fork guards go, cutting down the OEM fender will definitely be easier. You won't have to worry about fabricating mounting brackets which will be required with aftermarket guards like the UFO ones I used. This is probably the largest time sink of the mod as you have to spend a fair bit of time getting everything to line up / etc and you can't really do it without the bare forks to measure and tweak the final fitting of whatever guard you go with. That said, I'm very happy with the guards I went with. They offer good coverage and with the mounts I made they are bombproof and hold the brake lines really well. Now by far the cleanest approach would be to go with the single brake line / rotor like Senormoto.. I probably need all the brakes I can get so I kept the dual lines but I really like the simplicity of the single line. Not to mention you wouldn't have to worry about all those complex clearances with the T fitting.
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2010 BMW F800GS, 2011 Yamaha WR250R, 2011 Honda Ruckus, 2013 KTM 500 EXC
Up the WABDR, F800GS Stealth Bike Build, WR250R Scotts Damper Install
Red dirt, rocks and sand; Riding the southern UTBDR, WR250R vs EXC 500 - a comparison
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