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Old 02-03-2012, 07:55 AM   #46
aiMhi OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modette View Post
I'll offer to take pictures of you riding with this fairing. Once we get some NICE weather and trails are clear.
Sounds good, thanks Mark

Ride we will
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Old 02-03-2012, 05:44 PM   #47
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Oh also thinking of you, you should post over on the true XR Forum, see what people say of this...maybe it had been done what not. If nothing else a bigger potential customer base.

http://www.xr650rforum.com/
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Old 02-04-2012, 11:37 PM   #48
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I would buy it but I would almost immediately cut a big hole in it to mount above my 8" racelight. I like the style of it but I can't give up my big round light.

My riding style fits perfectly with this light though. Around here I use my xr more like a streetbike that can jump things. When I lived in the desert my favorite rides were to take the bike on some long empty dirt road and just cruise at 75-80 up on the pegs. For the rides I've done in the last few years I would have left a fairing on 90% of the time with the exception being some of the harder groups rides I joined in on. I'm sure there is a market but I'm not sure how many people would be in that market. I've always been a bit weird.
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:12 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lstzephyr View Post
I would buy it but I would almost immediately cut a big hole in it to mount above my 8" racelight. I like the style of it but I can't give up my big round light.

My riding style fits perfectly with this light though. Around here I use my xr more like a streetbike that can jump things. When I lived in the desert my favorite rides were to take the bike on some long empty dirt road and just cruise at 75-80 up on the pegs. For the rides I've done in the last few years I would have left a fairing on 90% of the time with the exception being some of the harder groups rides I joined in on. I'm sure there is a market but I'm not sure how many people would be in that market. I've always been a bit weird.
Holy mackrel, you bike changes looks/ color like the seasons. Way to get things done yourself

The front area that I would cut for a light would accomodate an 8 inch diameter. As soon as I have a production fairing I will cut an 8" cardboard and mock it up so you can get an idea of how it would look.
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:18 PM   #50
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Universal Enduro Fairing - Stealth Model (XR650R or other enduro)

I have made the decision to produce some of these universal fairings



Hopefully over the next couple weeks I will be back with something to show. After that I will move the thread to the Vendor side of the house. Thanks for the input from several of the ADV inmates.

Here is the deal:

I am looking at a cost to you of around $175 (excluding shipping & tax).

Included:
- $5 donated to a Keep the Trails Open organization or national Adventure Rider Non-Profit organization (your name included)
- Universal fairing
- Fiberglass cloth construction (mat is cheaper but will crack easier on impact)
- Superb Gel-Coat finish, with thick primer, ready to paint
- Simple bracket instructions and template (if avail for your bike)
- No lights - template for holes (OEM will work or LED is the way to go - can provide instructions/template)
- Template & instructions to make $10 Lexan headlight protector (if you need it)
- Available in time - universal dash, carbon fiber fihish, colored fiberglass finish..

If anyone have a big dual-sport (350cc and up) that would like to be a tester - send me a PM.
I would give that person a 25% discount and the option to return if it does not fit (within 30 days of purchase)


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aiMhi screwed with this post 02-05-2012 at 05:22 PM
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:35 PM   #51
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Good luck!
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:08 AM   #52
numbbutt
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Dakar Faring thoughts ..

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarkBRP View Post
Universal Enduro Fairing - Stealth Model (XR650R or other enduro)

I have made the decision to produce some of these universal fairings



Hopefully over the next couple weeks I will be back with something to show. After that I will move the thread to the Vendor side of the house. Thanks for the input from several of the ADV inmates.

Here is the deal:

I am looking at a cost to you of around $175 (excluding shipping & tax).

Included:
- $5 donated to a Keep the Trails Open organization or national Adventure Rider Non-Profit organization (your name included)
- Universal fairing
- Fiberglass cloth construction (mat is cheaper but will crack easier on impact)
- Superb Gel-Coat finish, with thick primer, ready to paint
- Simple bracket instructions and template (if avail for your bike)
- No lights - template for holes (OEM will work or LED is the way to go - can provide instructions/template)
- Template & instructions to make $10 Lexan headlight protector (if you need it)
- Available in time - universal dash, carbon fiber fihish, colored fiberglass finish..

If anyone have a big dual-sport (350cc and up) that would like to be a tester - send me a PM.
I would give that person a 25% discount and the option to return if it does not fit (within 30 days of purchase)


First of all your faring looks great... I have had one on my pig for a couple years and I know all the work you have gone to to get it to this point!

A couple observations for you to think about...
The height vs. the location relative to the bars is pretty critical for comfort and safety.. if you look at the dakar rally bikes the faring is mounted way forward of the bars to allow for body movement out over the bars ( think climbing up the wall of a sand wash , standing on the pegs, bike near vertical ) I have impacted my faring on a few occasions and mine is a good 5" forward of the bars at its top, and lower relative to the bars. The tall height of yours may really hamper over the bar clearance and provide for moments of great discomfort!. On the other side of things... if it is used for mainly street touring it will work fantastic. The latest faring I am working on has a rubber top lip to add some height and have a little give on body contact.
Again, I am not trying to piss on your parade... just giving a little input from personal experience.
Good luck on your endevour!
Numbbutt
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Old 02-06-2012, 08:19 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by numbbutt View Post
First of all your faring looks great... I have had one on my pig for a couple years and I know all the work you have gone to to get it to this point!

A couple observations for you to think about...
The height vs. the location relative to the bars is pretty critical for comfort and safety.. if you look at the dakar rally bikes the faring is mounted way forward of the bars to allow for body movement out over the bars ( think climbing up the wall of a sand wash , standing on the pegs, bike near vertical ) I have impacted my faring on a few occasions and mine is a good 5" forward of the bars at its top, and lower relative to the bars. The tall height of yours may really hamper over the bar clearance and provide for moments of great discomfort!. On the other side of things... if it is used for mainly street touring it will work fantastic. The latest faring I am working on has a rubber top lip to add some height and have a little give on body contact.
Again, I am not trying to piss on your parade... just giving a little input from personal experience.
Good luck on your endevour!
Numbbutt
Numbbutt - Safety is a big concern . I think that most of the guys out there that have ridden long distance enduro attempted to make a windshield extension of sorts and attached to the OEM headlight fairing or fabbed one from scratch. I myself fashioned several out of Lexan etc. but always found it too close to me and not getting the wind deflection that I was looking for, not to mention it looked home-made. If you want to truly get rid of the wind you need something taller and as you say much more forward for safety reasons. I ride standing 70% of the time.

The picture below does not reflect the final product. You will notice that there is a gap at the bottom of the fairing, a good 2 inches. I have since removed that and made an adjustment for it to sit flush at the bottom of the fairing, effectively moving the top of the fairing even further away from the rider. Once the final product is out I will provide typical dimensions but an estimate would be that the top middle of the fairing will be 9-10 inches ahead of the handlebars.

On the other hand this product is universal so it is not bound by a specific connection point on the bike. If you want it shorter you just slice a bit off the bottom until you have it where you want and if you need more room between you and the windshield piece, just make your simple brackets longer. With that said it connects very simply to the fork bolts with simple brackets that you can pop off in 5 min if you are going to ride super tight trails. If I think long term development I would most likely come out with a Stealth - Tall and Stealth - Medium model.

Thanks,
LarkBRP
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aiMhi screwed with this post 02-07-2012 at 02:09 PM
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:00 PM   #54
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Yes - I have changed my name to aiMhi. Stay tuned for more on this.

Faring update: I am having an industrial mold made which takes, well let me just say, it took me several days to resurface and correct imperfections to meet the manufacturers specifications. This included completely resurfacing it. Additionally it had to be mounted in a very specifc way and supported with mini trusses. There is much more to this than I would have ever expected. I am not going to be using a Urethane mold, those wear out and shrink with time, rather the industrial fiberglass type.

I have found the perfect upper bracket mount that will standardize the connection position. It is basically a type of anchor bolt with a flat round perforated base that attaches with a special glue used in composite building construction. This will prevent vibration wear and make it easier so create a standardized bracket, nevermind cosmetic advantages.

Hopefully by next weekend I will be able to have the first fairing out of the new mold

Dash update: I was finally able to find some time to work on my prototype composite dash. It came out great, and I am always amazed at how light, yet rigid this material is. I made a mock-up just for fun with my first fairing mold. The dash will be connected to the same brace that the lights will attach to (next project).

Went from this

To this


To this, mocked up on my first fairing mold.



The fairing and the dash will be independently mounted, and have a gap of about 1/2 inch between them.
This way the dash can be easily removed, and there is no vibration interference between the parts.
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aiMhi screwed with this post 02-20-2012 at 06:42 AM
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:08 PM   #55
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Will you be sporting a prototype of this on the Koko ride?
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:43 PM   #56
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Will you be sporting a prototype of this on the Koko ride?
My plan is to have this wrapped up by mid next month for all the components so, heck yeah you'll be able to scope it out
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Old 02-24-2012, 06:28 PM   #57
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OK - finally!

Here is what the production Universal fairing would look like. Taggable with Orange, Red, Green, Blue and Yellow. Stay tuned for seeing it on my pig and further details.



My destroyed prototype in the background :(

Rear view

Special top bracket bolts that will be bonded to fairing using a special
fiberglass construction glue or fiberglass epoxy (2500psi).
The fairing will "push" against these bolts during operation.




Whatcha think?
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aiMhi screwed with this post 02-25-2012 at 07:56 AM
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:51 PM   #58
BuilderScott
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Damn, that looks like a lot of work! Looks professional. How do you make the cut-out for the light(s)?
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:06 PM   #59
NorCal Dog
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photos look great Bern

as i said in the pm that i sent, I'm Game

i think that it'll look great on my sumo-pig & it'll keep alot of the wind off my chest @ 75/80mph
thanks for keeping me posted as to your progress & let me know when it's boxed & ready to ship
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:36 PM   #60
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Damn, that looks like a lot of work! Looks professional. How do you make the cut-out for the light(s)?
Depends what light but either a dremel/ rotary tool like my $20 harbour freight tool or you can drill holes and saw between them with a basic blade saw. Lay down some masking tape first. I'll make some templates.
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