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Old 04-02-2014, 04:31 PM   #1
UT R1150R OP
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Aftermarket can-get-it-oily clutch

Has anyone tried one of these clutches which supposedly still function if oil gets on them?

http://store.bobsbmw.com/product/clu...r1150-oilheads

My R1150R is in pieces in the garage in preparation for its first clutch replacement and I was thinking about trying this option

Any experience out there?
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:00 PM   #2
The Other JC
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Siebenrock

I have the Siebenrock clutch in my 1200GS - same as Bobs

Love it. Not that I noticed any difference in operation. But I have the peace of mind that comes with the extra $$$s over standard with oil protection.

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Old 04-02-2014, 07:17 PM   #3
Anorak
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Quote:
This German-made clutch plate is not just a replacement, it's an upgrade! No longer will you worry about the loss of performance (or total malfunction) when some oil gets on your "dry" clutch, which can happen all too easily as seals become older and tired. This clutch plate is impervious to oil and will work just as well wet as dry!
So if the clutch gets wet, you can just keep running without needing to tear the bike down to replace it. But here's the best part: if this clutch stays dry it will last TWICE as long as the stock organic compound clutch!
Really? How many people worry about that? You're more likely to have an input shaft, driveshaft, ABS or final drive failure than an oiled clutch.
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:29 PM   #4
JoeInHNL
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Do not have any experience with them but Beemer Boneyard has them for less.

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/clutches.html

Plus they give a 10% ADV discount.
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Old 04-03-2014, 12:07 AM   #5
UT R1150R OP
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Thanks for the feedback, guys!

I'm also keeping an eye out for pistons that can be run *without* oil. I had an XR 500 that did that once... Operator error, or something like that

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Old 04-03-2014, 12:16 AM   #6
UT R1150R OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Other JC View Post
I have the Siebenrock clutch in my 1200GS - same as Bobs

Love it. Not that I noticed any difference in operation. But I have the peace of mind that comes with the extra $$$s over standard with oil protection.
I just noticed that you did a write-up on how to change the clutch. I owe you a good man!
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Old 04-03-2014, 02:44 AM   #7
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So do you just ignore any oil leaks ? if the leaks bad enough to contaminate a clutch and possibly stop your progress you'd better worry more about the leak rather than just fitting a friction plate that allows you to ignore it.

And how long do you ignore it for ?
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Old 04-03-2014, 04:29 PM   #8
UT R1150R OP
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Originally Posted by Steptoe View Post
So do you just ignore any oil leaks ? if the leaks bad enough to contaminate a clutch and possibly stop your progress you'd better worry more about the leak rather than just fitting a friction plate that allows you to ignore it.

And how long do you ignore it for ?
It's not my intent to let any leaks go unfixed. However, if I'm in the middle of Alaska when a seal leaks onto my clutch I'd prefer to ride to where I can fix it rather than get towed, or eaten by a bear or something. Also, the manufacturer claims that if it never gets oily, the clutch will last twice as long as the OEM. I don't necessarily believe that but if it's even 50% or better, I'd be pretty happy. That said, I plan on changing all the seals while the bike is apart anyway.

I think there's an ice cream joke in there somewhere
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Old 04-03-2014, 04:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UT R1150R View Post
It's not my intent to let any leaks go unfixed. However, if I'm in the middle of Alaska when a seal leaks onto my clutch I'd prefer to ride to where I can fix it rather than get towed, or eaten by a bear or something. Also, the manufacturer claims that if it never gets oily, the clutch will last twice as long as the OEM. I don't necessarily believe that but if it's even 50% or better, I'd be pretty happy. That said, I plan on changing all the seals while the bike is apart anyway.

I think there's an ice cream joke in there somewhere
You're more likely to have the final drive or driveshaft fail.
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:54 PM   #10
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Nice part. Didn't know they even existed
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:52 PM   #11
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"Grabby"

I have read in the past that they are "grabbier"

Comments from real users please.
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:21 PM   #12
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I bought one and put it on my '04 1150GSA at 64,000 miles along with the usual BMW clutch parts that go with it. I had chudder in 1st gear for the next 10,000 miles then I wrecked the bike (WUMPA). It seemed like the chudder was getting better and might be gone completely after another 10,000 miles. Clutch got heavy-duty use--WUMPA was a sidecar rig used extensively off-pavement.
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Old 04-04-2014, 03:11 AM   #13
Steptoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UT R1150R View Post
It's not my intent to let any leaks go unfixed. However, if I'm in the middle of Alaska when a seal leaks onto my clutch I'd prefer to ride to where I can fix it rather than get towed, or eaten by a bear or something.
Stop being a drama queen.

As i said, and the point you've missed, if the oil leak is a major oil leak that is going to make your bike unrideable without warning and in such a short time you'll have a major problem elsewhere and nothing to do with your clutch slipping.
A "normal" oil leak onto the clutch gives plenty of warning and you can carry on riding for hundreds if not thousands of miles before you become immobile.
And even then removing the starter motor and giving the clutch a quick squirt of brake cleaner will give you another lease of life.
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Old 04-04-2014, 05:27 PM   #14
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With Anorak & Steptoe here. I can count the number of riders that I have known to become completely immobilized by oiled clutches on... um... no hands. OEM clutches are pretty damned good and easily last 100,000 miles with reasonable use. That said, I have ridden a couple of bikes with 'ceramic' clutches and they felt pretty normal to me as long as the engagement was correct.
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Old 04-05-2014, 12:13 PM   #15
UT R1150R OP
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Originally Posted by Steptoe View Post
Stop being a drama queen.

As i said, and the point you've missed, if the oil leak is a major oil leak that is going to make your bike unrideable without warning and in such a short time you'll have a major problem elsewhere and nothing to do with your clutch slipping.
A "normal" oil leak onto the clutch gives plenty of warning and you can carry on riding for hundreds if not thousands of miles before you become immobile.
And even then removing the starter motor and giving the clutch a quick squirt of brake cleaner will give you another lease of life.


Yeah, you're probably right
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