New air box

[crankshaft]

[mousitsas]

Originally Posted by crankshaft

My experience was better throttle response... I have zero experience with the motohooligan set up, never even seen one, so not sure how to respond. I will say that my CPR filter is properly oiled, which might create some restriction for better response. I'll be on the Dyno next Tuesday, so I'll see what the numbers look like.

Point taken and dyno eagerly awaited.

[Head2Wind]

I need to spend time with it beyond what we have done so far before I can offer a jetting package. I am hoping for something in the next 30-45 days, race testing to happen at the MX1000. I want to verify that the needle profile is right for the application.

Originally Posted by ktm950se

Hi Ken,
How soon do you think it'll be before you've determined the final jetting for this air filter and can supply a jetting kit?

Thanks!

ktm950se

[K2m]

Originally Posted by Balsta

Then, how come the vacuum slides opens very fast even without any air filter? I just watched them with the air filter removed.

There is no load on the engine!!! You are just reving it. Things change when you put it into gear (I hope )

Originally Posted by Balsta

Anyway, thinking about FCR's but I dont like the 41 mm diameter when I already had to make 43/53 mm nozzles between the carbs and the huge intakes on the SDR. I just dont like the alternative choice,,,FI neither. Any suggestions apprieciated

Get the 39mm FCR's Remember those 43mm CV's have got a big axial through the center. So they are not 43mm. Powercell says don't get the 41's. He used both when he worked with Sutco to set up these kits. Things might be different if you were putting 41's on a SD converted for carbs.

If you fit FCR's you can "Trumpet" to the air box connection. Experiment with the runner length. HOW COOL WILL THAT LOOK AND HP TO BE FOUND CV's are shit carbs

I can not comment on your K&N's as it is your impression and goes against the general thinking.

[K2m]

Gentlemen Do not waist time insulating your air boxes. Who cares about the ambient temperature at a set of lights or in crawling traffic. (Apologies to air box insulators )

There "is" a great rush of cool/normal air traveling through the steering stem area that feeds your engine. To stop swallowing hot "less dense air into your motor put something behind the radiator to divert hot air away from your intake. I got a old rear inner tube, cut a square, and cable tied it on............... To simple

In 2005 I was doing this......... look at how new the bike is. You can see the impregnated foam between the air box and the frame tube. The best solution is to divert the radiator air with a simple inner tube. Movement does the rest.



This is all you need

[BillyD]

Originally Posted by K2m

Gentlemen Do not waist time insulating your air boxes. Who cares about the ambient temperature at a set of lights or in crawling traffic. (Apologies to air box insulators )
.....

Hey, who are you calling a "gentleman"? ;-)

I put this in the simple but effective category of air flow and heat management.

I do, however, tend to refrain from using my rubbers more than once...

[EdGear]

No air box to insulate with the Rottweiler.

[K2m]

Originally Posted by EdGear

No air box to insulate with the Rottweiler.

Drrrrr good point I must try to slow down

But we have found a plentiful supply of rubbers as Billy only uses his once and so he should be good for supplying a copious amount of slightly soiled new condition S/H rubbers........ Lucky guy

[crankshaft]

I have a thermocouple temp tester that I can use to see what the temps are in the intake area during the dyno test if you guys are interested?

[BillyD]

Originally Posted by K2m

Drrrrr good point I must try to slow down

But we have found a plentiful supply of rubbers as Billy only uses his once and so he should be good for supplying a copious amount of slightly soiled new condition S/H rubbers........ Lucky guy

I don't know about that...

I've been carrying the same one in my wallet for years. I keep hoping for that lucky night.

BTW, with so much time to kill, my air box is insulated.

[K2m]

Originally Posted by crankshaft

I have a thermocouple temp tester that I can use to see what the temps are in the intake area during the dyno test if you guys are interested?

How accurate will those temperature be without the bike moving. A fan will be no substitute. If you set your jetting on a dyno it will be way rich for the street. It will need a wideband follow up on the street. Dyno operator's do not worry about this as rich is safe and people do not come back with blown engines............ And I mean customer goes off and fits a new air intake and ends up blowing it then blames the dyno. Maximum power is one step away from destruction.

Originally Posted by BillyD

I don't know about that...
BTW, with so much time to kill, my air box is insulated.

I know what you mean............. Youth is wasted on the young

[crankshaft]

Originally Posted by K2m

How accurate will those temperature be without the bike moving. A fan will be no substitute. If you set your jetting on a dyno it will be way rich for the street. It will need a wideband follow up on the street. Dyno operator's do not worry about this as rich is safe and people do not come back with blown engines............ And I mean customer goes off and fits a new air intake and ends up blowing it then blames the dyno. Maximum power is one step away from destruction.

The assumption you're making is that I'm doing the dyno work with some fly by night outfit that does pulls for peak HP for bragging rights. Is that what I'm gathering? I do plan on riding the bike in an 1100 mile desert race at the end of this month, so fuel economy is important. I'm also interested in reliability, which means proper fueling is important. I guess I'm interested in something between full rich and full on lean right? I can leave the T-couple sensors on the bike and data log the temps during the race also. I was meaning to do that anyway.


I also own one of these.......

[Balsta]

Originally Posted by K2m

....CV's are shit carbs

I figured out that my CV's actually were shit carbs about 4,5 years and 75000 kms from new. Running the motor with airbox removed evidenced one slide opened much faster than the other. Replaced the slower one by a new and hoppla! the new opened much faster than the remaining best of the two old. Then replaced the second old slide and what do you think occured? Yes Yes Yes!! Both sharp equal and really fast. Conclusion: The rubber diagrams stiffens with time and the slides need to be replaced to avoid poor responding CV's. They are neither any reinvestment of significance.

[Gustavo.Ramos]

Originally Posted by Balsta

I figured out that my CV's actually were shit carbs about 4,5 years and 75000 kms from new. Running the motor with airbox removed evidenced one slide opened much faster than the other. Replaced the slower one by a new and hoppla! the new opened much faster than the remaining best of the two old. Then replaced the second old slide and what do you think occured? Yes Yes Yes!! Both sharp equal and really fast. Conclusion: The rubber diagrams stiffens with time and the slides need to be replaced to avoid poor responding CV's. They are neither any reinvestment of significance.

Interesting

[K2m]

Originally Posted by Gustavo.Ramos

Interesting

Very