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Old 03-19-2012, 03:04 PM   #46
crankshaft
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I'm with you, it can always get better I just did treie changing the preload on the rear spring and I took all the adjustment out of it and I'm still not there, so I guess I need to throw the stock spring in. The forks needed a bit more preload also. It's like shimming a hobby horse
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:13 PM   #47
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Crank, do you know what weight spring you have in it now?
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:13 PM   #48
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Crank, do you know what weight spring you have in it now?
It had a 150 in it. I put the stock spring back in and was able to get the sag to 96mm without gear, so I should be in the ballpark. The stock spring was 140.
What amazes me is that it was really stink bugging at 76mm I did a sand race in February and did pretty good with the thing set up poorly. Next time I should do even better I'm going to throw some sand whoops at it tomorrow afternoon and see whats up.

Did you end up riding the Sandy Lane enduro? I was there on my 390 running B senior and had a good time!
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:36 PM   #49
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Thanks Mous but I am not afraid of tuning, testing and making it work better. I guess I should just go back to stock valving on the forks too, even though they already work far better than before? I've ridden around the stock suspension at speed in races long enough. It wasn't terrible considering the weight but it can get alot better!
Not saying it can't get better. All I said is that the rear shock with stock valving is not going to work according to the 1/3 laden sag rule. Try something like 1/4 - 1/5 instead.

Front stock valving is just outrageous. Anything other than that and I'm not surprised it works better.
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:42 AM   #50
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Rear shock has been revalved too and IMO the rear was far too oversprung out of the box. I think even stock a lighter spring would have been a treat.

Missed the Sandy Lane due to the rear shock being out of service till a new lower assembly can be sourced, ordered now from KTM. It was supposed to have been rebuild and handed back to me. It was ridden for 30 minutes and leaking like crazy, take it back and now they tell me the lower adjuster is frozen. OK but it was frozen the first time you rebuilt it too, did you not fix that the first time two weeks ago???
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:28 AM   #51
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I'm 260 with gear on, so the rear spring seems perfect
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:42 AM   #52
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195lbs in street clothes, stock springs/valving with new Husaberg fork seals and different oil in the shock. I couldn't be happier with the results. Works well everywhere with the exception of ice which is more of a dtx set up anyway. Kinda hard to get consistant sag numbers on a bike with a 30# weight swing not to mention the 15# variable depending on exhaust.
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:56 AM   #53
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What sag numbers Locker?

Crank, I believe that stock spring is right on the $ for you at 260!
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:08 PM   #54
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2007 SE 950, I weight 265 lbs and have a 130 rear spring
40mm static sag
a total of 90mm sag with me on the bike.

So does that mean my rear spring is to soft with my numbers?
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:17 PM   #55
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Haven't honestly checked. AA buddy of mine (total suspension freak and same size) dialed her in and then followed me through a variety of conditions clicking as we went. The shock did end up with everything backed off which is "normal" with the oil used. As it breaks in its heading more toward the middle of the spectrum. My buddy is the one who should be talking as I'm simply a throttle/seat connector! I do know 2 turns from contact on spring but it really seems forgiving in that area?
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:23 PM   #56
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2007 SE 950, I weight 265 lbs and have a 130 rear spring
40mm static sag
a total of 90mm sag with me on the bike.

So does that mean my rear spring is to soft with my numbers?

I'm thinking by conventional standards you are right in the range you want. How does it steer and are you bottoming it often? Ever?
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:39 PM   #57
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[QUOTE=SFKLR;17997299]Navin,
Been following this thread. I too experienced the exact same sag and stiff ride with the stock setup. I'm 6'3", 195lbs. " quote

We are close in weight so I guess you can compare directly with my 12 kg measurments, (maybe???). If a 12kg directly equals a 120 I don't know, probably close enough but I hope Trailtricks or Superplush chimes in on that. Kennyd gave me some of his numbers too, sounds like you get alot of resistance till you just drop off down around the 11.2 iirc???

I can't give any real impressions of the Trailtrick 12kg spring as my shock is FUBAR again. I know my sag was getting closer but I doubt it was enough. Like others I was only using full travel under huge hits, like dropping 15' off a downhill double and clipping the landing. I think I could have gone lighter than the 12 but Javier though I'd be getting what I want from it. Till I get a real ride on it with the shock working I won't know for sure.
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:52 PM   #58
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Went for a quick beat after work in some quad trails near my house. Sorry about the camera position, it's not ideal

I need to put more compression into the shock and maybe sack it out a little bit more for 105mm. The front end is a bit harsh, so I'm going to pull a bit more compression out of it. The rebound seemed pretty good. For the record, I'm just learning about this stuff, so take anything I say with a grain of salt please.

Locker's bike worked really well, it was stiff enough for my weight and stiff enough for his more aggressive riding style. I'm shooting for his set up.

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Old 03-20-2012, 03:18 PM   #59
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Hey, incidentally, everyone talks about 8mm of pre-load. How does one measure that? Do you compress the rear spring 8mm from the collar, or do you raise the back of the bike 8mm from the axle? Vast difference between the two.
You unscrew the collar until it barely touches the spring, then you turn it down 8mm. You need a center stand to do that. If you have no such means, then measure about 40mm of thread showing from the top of the collar. This measurement is as accurate as i could get without removing the shock.
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:34 PM   #60
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Thanks Mousitsas.

Incidentally, to replace the rear spring, I place on center stand and undo the bottom bolt, leaving the top in place, yes? Does anyone know the torque value on re-install? Any tricks or tips to installation? Thanks again.
You're welcome.
I'm not sure if there is enough space to remove the spring if you don't remove the entire shock from the bike. But it is possible! Only slightly difficult bit in the whole procedure is to get the lower bushing aligned with the swingarm hole, as it is a pretty tight fit. WD40 and a mallet will help, as well as a magnetic tip when you remove and re-insert the bottom bolt into the side hole of the swingarm. The top bolt is piece of cake to remove so no reason not to.
If you want to be very accurate in preloading you can place a zip tie on top of the collar to have a reference as you tighten in (or measure the threaded bit above the colar)
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