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Old 02-12-2012, 10:24 AM   #1
wjrudo OP
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Aftermarket Bars for the R1200GSA

I don't really see a lot/any choices for bars for the big boxer out there. Quite a few choices for risers though. Would there be any interest in some high rise bars that would get rid of the need for the risers? I'm going to make a set soon from .100 wall CroMo. They will have a welded on threaded hole for the mirrors to reduce the chance of a digger causing the brake or clutch clamp breaking. What are the arguments for or against a crossbar on the GSA? Any other input is welcome .
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:28 AM   #2
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Interesting except for the welded on hole. I expect the will be quite ridgid as well. Will that transfer vibration offroad?
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:53 AM   #3
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Motomochila
As for the "welded hole", I was thinking about a small weld-on lug with a hole in it. The bars would have a small weld on about 1/6th of the dia. Still a weld, but the bar's material would not have a hole. As for the vibration, I was thinking about vibration dampening in the tube ends or a setup something like Fasst Flexx uses but smaller and less conspicuous.
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:07 AM   #4
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I think, in comparison to taller bars, risers are a little bit more flexible.

With something like Rox pivoting risers, you get to reuse the stock bars, but bring them up, back, somewhere in between ...

The bars on the GS seem pretty good. Aren't they aluminum? They're also nice and wide. And they're tapered. So they have some natural vibration dampening in them.

Still, some people might prefer taller bars.
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:04 AM   #5
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To me GS bars are comfortable for riding standing up, but for I would prefer them to be lower when riding on asphalt.
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:11 AM   #6
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What am I missing here? What keeps you from adapting other bars for use on the GS, GSA? I adapted bars to the KTM 990 pretty easily, they required a few well placed holes for the switches but all the dimensions worked. I prefer taller bars with more sweep for more natural angles on the wrists. While at it added vibranators for less vibration and a throttle lock.
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:26 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by genka View Post
To me GS bars are comfortable for riding standing up, but for I would prefer them to be lower when riding on asphalt.
Agreed....I think i will try moving the bars to the more forward position one of these days...have you tried this? (I have a '09 1200)
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:37 AM   #8
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If it were me, i would reduce the pullback angle of the bars as well as move them for forward and upright. The stock bars on my GS put too much pressure on the outside of my palms and moved my hands too far back when standing up, making it tiring to ride off road. I would also make them narrower, I don't see the need for wide bars. Also, make sure you can install the factory hand guards and bar ends.

So far, the Pro Taper Contour Pastrana FMX bend bars I put on have addressed these issues. I got some Rox risers just in case, but never even installed them.

These new bars completely transformed the ride of the bike, but I'm not sure one bend would be adequate for all GS riders.

I'm not sure the extra lugs are needed either...the mirrors seem to break loose fairly easily

justinallen03 screwed with this post 02-15-2012 at 03:08 PM Reason: wrong bar model
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:10 AM   #9
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Agreed....I think i will try moving the bars to the more forward position one of these days...have you tried this? (I have a '09 1200)
Yes, this is what I eventually did. It sets the bars higher, but because of the longer reach it works out OK. The switches are not adjustable, so their position is not optimal anymore. But I adjusted.
Regarding replacement handlebars- I believe that the heating elements for the grips are glued to the bars. Replacing the bars may not be very straightforward.
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:20 AM   #10
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nah, the grips are glued to the heating element, which screws into (clutch side) or clamps on (throttle side) the bars. That is pretty easy to do. Once you get the bars, grips and controls situated to your liking, drill the hole for the clutch grip retaining bolt, screw in, and clamp on the throttle grip. I did have to sand down the knurling on the clutch side of the bar to slide the grip on.

Attaching the handguards, now that is a different story. I spent all this time getting M12 inserts for the bars so I could fit the stock guards, but in the end I had to replace them with the cycra pro-bend CRMs. All is well and good now.
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Old 02-13-2012, 02:11 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by justinallen03 View Post
Attaching the handguards, now that is a different story. I spent all this time getting M12 inserts for the bars so I could fit the stock guards, but in the end I had to replace them with the cycra pro-bend CRMs. All is well and good now.
How did the Cycra's fit around all the stuff on the handlebars? Any clearance issues? Any pictures?
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:48 PM   #12
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It took a while, but they ended up fitting pretty well...I had to make a 1" spacer and longer bolts at the clamps to get the guards to clear the cylinders:



For a quick fix, I just bought some 1/2" (i believe) hollow rod from home depot and cut off 1" strips. Maybe I'll call Cycra one day and see how long the spacer kit they sell for their CRM guards is:

http://store.cycraracing.com/alloyspacerkit.html

Because I originally intended on using the stock bar ends and handguards, I installed M12 x 1.5 (ID) threaded inserts by EZ-LOK and bought 2 M12 flat head cap screws from McMaster (90mm long i believe) to hold everything together. To fill the tapered area of the bar end, I bought 2 - 12MM flat head cap screws and drilled a 1/2" hole in the middle and used the head as a washer. Then I drilled out the handguard end hole to 1/2" and tried to countersink the hole as much as possible. The flat head stuck out a bit, so i had to chamfer the edge until it was flush with the handguard hole.

If i was to do it over again (knowing the stock guards wouldn't fit), I would have just used the bar end expanding anchors that came with the handguard kit, and some longer screws. Much less work, but possibly not as secure.

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Old 02-13-2012, 07:01 PM   #13
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They look really good. Love the black.

So those have a different rise than the stock bars? If so, what's the effective differente between those bars and the stock bars with risers?
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:13 PM   #14
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thanks

I think they have a bit more rise to them, but the biggest difference is the pull-back. These bars are straighter, allowing me to position myself over the front of the bike, more like a dirt bike. Before, my hands would be further back, so when i leaned forward, i had to hunch over more and was more unstable. The comfort and controllability off road was night and day.

On the road, I like how the bars fit me. I cut them shorter (overall width at the bars is a touch over 35"), so my hands are a little more than shoulder width, and much straighter. I don't know if its good or bad, but i've been on 6-8 hr rides and I would like to think the position is better for me ergonomically. I know i feel about the same level of aches and whatnot (which is essentially nil) as before, except for my hands. holy crap...

The stock bars would put a lot of pressure on the outside of my palms, causing my hands to cramp pretty quickly. Now i reach and my natural arm/wrist position fits the grip like a glove. Worlds better.

Sorry to be long winded.
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:20 PM   #15
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another view

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