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Old 02-17-2012, 11:52 AM   #16
potski
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Hi guys....enjoying your RR, keep it coming. 2Up on a Transalp..LOVE IT

I guess you'r doing a TRANS Black sea .."LONG WAY ROUND"

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Old 02-17-2012, 01:06 PM   #17
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Old 02-17-2012, 02:19 PM   #18
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:15 AM   #19
doring
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Great ride. I'm in.
I was planing for a trip like yours, can you tell me a budget and how much time did you need for.
Thanks.
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Old 02-20-2012, 01:17 AM   #20
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Hi,

Time: we left on the Friday the 1st of July and arrived back in Bucharest on the 2 weeks later, Monday 18th of July. So that is 17 and a half days. Total distance was about 4200 km, considering that we skipped Georgia and took the ferry from Russia to Turkey. From the 17 days, 5 days we rest and visited.

Money: Gas in Ukraine and Russia is around one USD, in Turkey is 2.3 USD (that was the most expensive part).
Also very expensive is the Ferry from Sochi to Trabzon - 650 USD for 2 persons and bike. Generally Sochi is pretty expensive, accommodation was double then the rest of the places where we stay. The 2 days in Istanbul where over the average budget.

We did not camped, which increased our budget and we eat many meals in small restaurants or local food shop. We did not cooked.

If I remember correctly it was generally around 100 USD per day for the two of us. That includes accommodation, food, fuel and beers.

hope this answer you question, if you have any other please shoot :)

Safe rides,
Adrian

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Great ride. I'm in.
I was planing for a trip like yours, can you tell me a budget and how much time did you need for.
Thanks.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:06 AM   #21
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Epic stuff !!! more , more !!!



Thanks for sharing it all
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:11 AM   #22
asilindean OP
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Day 3 - Odessa Simferopol Backisaray - 480 km

Odessa – Simferopol is 450 km of bad roads. I took us 9 hours to make it there. Of course we had planned to be there after lunch, and for that purpose and also to avoid the morning traffic in Odessa, we left the hostel at 7 in the morning. But, as they say, if you want to make god laugh, tell him your plans.
We left Odessa early and soon after exiting the city it started to rain. To be sure that we are not going anywhere as planned, 70 km outside Odessa we had our first flat tyre. Hoping for a quik fix I tried and used the in/famous tyre repair spray.
It worked.....for another 80 km, then flat again. This time I had no choice but to use the spare tube. When taking out the old tube I saw that the valve was damaged.











I replaced the damaged tube and from now on I was always worried that if anything happened I had no other spare tube. Luckily nothing did.



Some bikers on the road


It was a long day.
We arrived in Simferopol around 4 in the afternoon and after a quick search we found the hostel where we had reserved a room.
The hostel was located near the train station, and the area was very busy. The rooms of the hostel were very small and bad smelling. The private room we had reserved was not in the hostel but in one flat 15 min walk from the hostel. I went there to see the place and Oana stayed with the bike. The owner showed up almost one hour later, time by which I have developed an intense feeling of paranoia. Something inside me was screaming to get the hell out of there. There was also no secure place to put the bike. When asked the lady from the hostel if it’s ok to put the bike near the Police station and she said that it’s not safe I reached a decision. Oana was pretty tired and was not very keen to get on the bike again but we agreed to make another 50 km to Bakcisaray and search for a room there. It was a very good decision. We left the city making our way in the extremely dense traffic and arrived in Bakcisaray less than one hour later.
We stopped in front of the Khan Palace where we were meet by a local guy, Timur who speak good English, and after the initial reluctance, we accept his invitation and let him take us to a hotel. The name of the hotel is Meraba and is situated right behind the Khan Palace at a distance of 5 minute walking. The hotel was run by 2 very nice young ladies, who speak English and they give us a very good room and breakfast for the price of 300 Grv. They also have a safe place to put the bike.
The thing that Oana liked the most there was the kiosk from the hotel courtyard.



The hotel






The
restaurant where Timur work








Timur, the young man who we meet was of Tatar origin, born in Uzbekistan and like many other Tatars his parents were deported from Crimea in various places of the former USSR during the communist regime. Although later the Soviet regime "exonerated" them, it has denied permission for the Crimean Tatars to return to Crimea. After the disappearance of the Soviet Union they choose to come back to their ancestors land, Crimea, and start a new life.
At the present time there are around 300.000 Tatars in Crimea, representing 12% of the population of Crimea Autonomous Republic.
The principal religion of the Crimean Tatars is Islam. As Muslims, they are Sunnis of the Hanafi school. The Crimean Tatars adopted Islam during the tenth through twelfth centuries and it became the state religion under the Crimean Khanate.
The status of the Autonomous Republic of Crimea is regulated by the Constitution of Ukraine and Constitution of the Autonomous Republic of Crimea. Crimea is an integral part of Ukraine but is the only region which has the autonomy status. The Mejlis of the Crimean Tatar People or Parliament is the supreme executive body underpinned by a network of district and local “mejlises”, which are formed in every settlement where the Crimean Tatars live. The Mejilis are elected for 5 years through nationwide voting based on a mixed electoral system.

Timur invited us to the restaurant where he worked, situated across the street from the Khan Palace, and there we had an extremely tasteful local diner. No beer thou. Dinner was around 300 Grv.


On the right Timur. If at any time you meet him send our best regards and let him take care of you


We spend the rest of the evening laying in one of the kiosk from the hotel, making some notes on the events of the day and drinking a very good tea served by the owner of the hotel and made from local plants.
Worth mentioning here is the fact that from Simferopol the road condition improve greatly. No potholes, good asphalt.

asilindean screwed with this post 02-23-2012 at 04:45 AM
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:51 AM   #23
doring
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Thanks for your information, you are very kind. I like your RR, the pictures are great and is good that you write about the people you met and their habits. From your pictures looks like you had good meal, I like that :).
Keep it coming.

Bafta!
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:11 PM   #24
Dickyb
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Um, Looks interesting Adrian. What is it?





Looking forward to more of the trip.


Cheers,

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Old 02-20-2012, 01:32 PM   #25
asilindean OP
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Hi David.

it was something of a lamb soup for me and a vegetable soup with macaroni for Oana. the deserts were some delicious local specialties of which I cant remember the name (local version of baklava?).

See you soon in sunny Turkey

Adrian

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Um, Looks interesting Adrian. What is it?





Looking forward to more of the trip.


Cheers,

Dickyb
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:28 AM   #26
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Day 4 Simferopol Sevastopol 50 km

Attention, long day coming, many pictures

The city of is Bakhchisaray located in a canyon between Simferopol and Sevastopol, and among the interesting sites to see are the Crimean Tatar Khan's palace, the cave city and the Armenian monastery that is built in a cave. This was once the capital of the Crimean Tatar Khanate.

Next morning we had a tasty breakfast at the Meraba Hotel after which we decided to see the Khan Palace. The Khan's palace was the seat of the Tatar rulers of Crimea dating back to 1443. With the Ottoman conquest of Crimea in 1475 the Khan's became a vassal state of the Ottoman Empire but the khans were left as rulers. After the Crimean War with the victory of Russia all of the Khan's were made Russian nobility but the capital of Crimea was moved to Simferopol.
It is said that when she was busy ordering the mass destruction of Bakhchysaray’s mosques in the 18th and early 19th centuries, Catherine the Great spared the Khan Palace. Her decision was reportedly based on the building being ‘romantic’. Today it remains a major landmark of Crimean culture and history. Points of interest include the inner palace, the Kahn's cemetery, the Falcon Tower, the Crimean Tatar museum and a small art gallery. The entrance fee is around 50 Grivnas / person.







After visiting the Palace we packed our bag and ride to see the Uspensky Monastery in the rock and Chufut-Kale. To get there we continued on the road from Bakhchysaray east. We arrived at a huge parking place packed with people, cars and buses.
Not being sure if we had to stop there or we can go closer by bike, we asked some of the guys standing around there, which happened to speak good English. He said the we can go closer to the monastery but there we must pay the parking or we can let the bike at a nearby restaurant where parking is free. We decided to leave the bike to the restaurant. To my surprise the guy made some gestures to a kid with a small scooter and he guide us to the inside parking of the restaurant. They were very well organized.

For the monastery one must take the small road to the left and after a few hundred meter (uphill) we arrived at the monastery.
The Uspensky Monastery in the rock is an old and beautiful Orthodox Monastery founded around the 8th century. A holy spring flows inside and the water is potable. Part of the small Uspensky Monastery is the Gold-Domed Church which has been built into the limestone rock of the surrounding hill, probably by Byzantine monks in the 8th or 9th century. Of course, the Soviets closed the place down, but it's been operating again since 1993.









Even if the joint entrance to the Uspensky Monastery and Chufut-Kale is bit touristy, the 2km walk to the cave city make it sure that it is not too crowded. We left our riding gear at the restaurant with the bike, a rider in full gear would sweat a lot all the way up.
Chufut-Kale is a cliff city last inhabited by Kararite Jews, rising 200m is a lang plateau on a hill, full with caves and structures carved in stone where people took refuge for centuries. There are 1000 year old Jewish and Muslim cemeteries in the area.
First appearing in historical records as Kyrk-Or (Forty Fortifications), the city was settled sometime between the 6th and 12th centuries by Christianized descendants of Sarmatian tribes. The last powerful ruler of the Golden Horde, Tokhtamysh, sheltered here after defeat in the 1390s, and the first Crimean Khanate was established at Chufut-Kale in the 15th century, before moving to nearby Bakhchysaray. After the Tatars left, Turkic-Jewish Karaites occupied the city until the mid-19th century, which won the mountain its current name of 'Jewish Fortress'.
Soon after the gate of the city, you enter a Swiss-cheese composition of carved-out rooms and steps. A stone path heads along the top of the plateau, past two locked kenassas (Karaite prayer houses) to the right. To the left of the first intersection stands the red-tile roofed Muslim mausoleum (1437) of Dzhanike-Khanym, daughter of Tokhtamys. We advise to go left behind the mausoleum towards the cliff edge and enjoy the view into the valley below. Mind you that there is a entrance fee at the gate (40 Grivnas/person).
The place is very beautiful and the view is great but no real efforts to restore the place have been made.




















Going downhill we stopped and eaten at the restaurant where the bike was. Good food and excellent coffee.

We exited Bakhchisaray and took the main road to Sevastopol. Along the way we made a short stop at Inkerman another cave monastery.

The Inkerman Monastery of St. Clement is a cave monastery in a cliff near the city of Inkerman. It was founded in 1850 on the site of a medieval Byzantine monastery where the relics of St. Clement were supposedly kept before their removal to San Clemente by Saints Cyril and Methodius. The early Christians are supposed to have kept the relics in a grotto which could be visited only on the anniversary of his death. The monastery was damaged by the Crimean Earthquake of 1927 and was closed between 1931 and 1991. During World War II the caves housed the officers of a Soviet army defending Sevastopol. Several of the churches build in time were taken down by the Soviets.





We enter the mighty port of Sevastopol taking the ring for as long as we could, then enter the city as close as possible to the center. The traffic in and around Sevastopol is quite ok, the main city itself being on a peninsula with many one way streets. Of course that I managed to get on the street were we should find our hostel, one corner after the number I was looking for, so I got the chance to make another round.



The hostel is TIU Bolshaya Hostel, situated in the center of the city. The owner/manager is Adam an Australian guy, who together with his polish girlfriend Sylvia had open for the summer a hostel in Odessa and one in Sevastopol. In both hostels the conditions were great and both the hosts were very helpful. Of course English was not a problem. Adam is full of stories regarding his travel to Russia and Ukraine on his monster 4x4, and how he was detained over 50 hours on the Ukrainian/Russian border in Kerch/Kavckaz.
His blog: http://adamcontra.wordpress.com/
The border story: http://adamcontra.wordpress.com/2009/04/20/53-hours-doesnt-sound-like-a-long-time/

Sevastopol is a Hero City of the Soviet Union. This is a Soviet honorary title awarded for outstanding heroism during the German-Soviet War (World War II) of 1941 to 1945. It was awarded to only twelve cities of the Soviet Union. The combined German/Romania assault of the city lasted from October 1941 until June 1942. During the siege and heavy bombardment, they used the gigantic Schwerer Gustav railroad cannon.
During the Soviet times, Sevastopol was a “closed city”. Today Sevastopol has a population of aprox 340,000, being the second largest port in Ukraine, after the Port of Odessa. The Russians are the majority of the population account for 70%, with Ukrainians being the second group with 22%.
The city was the home of the Russian then Soviet Black Sea Fleet. According to the 1997 treaty, a Russian naval base would continue to be located in Sevastopol and the adjoining region on the terms of a 20-year renewable lease, following a long diplomatic and political dispute between Russia and the newly independent Ukraine.
In 2010, Russia and Ukraine ratified the Russian Ukrainian Naval Base for Gas treaty, extending the Russian Navy's lease of the Sevastopol base for 25 years after 2017 (through 2042) with an option to prolong the lease for another 5 years (through 2047). The ratification process in the Ukrainian parliament encountered stiff opposition but it was eventually ratified by a 52% majority vote.
After putting the bike in the courtyard, we took a long walk around the peninsula to visit the city.





The history of the city is connected with the military history of the region and with the fate of the Black Sea Fleet. The city has endless monuments dedicated to the sailor defending the city (apparently more than 1,400) from the Crimean War to the Great Patriotic War.

The Obelisk in honor of the Hero-City of Sevastopol on Cape Khrustalny


Eagle Column - The Eagle Column commemorates Russian ships deliberately scuppered at the mouth of the harbor in 1854 to make it impossible for enemy ships to pass.

The Monument to the Scuttled Ships





The Monument to Admiral P. S. Nakhimov


Painted Panorama - The most famous Sevastopol wartime memorial is the painted panorama, on a hill near the centre of town. A painting around the inner wall of a circular building is designed to bring the 349-day siege of Sevastopol to life. Unfortuynatly it closes at 6 PM, so we were not able to see it.
The building of the "Defense of Sevastopol" Panorama



After the long day we bought some beers and swap stories with Adam at the hostel. The price of a private room for the 2 of us at the hostel was 375 Grivnas.

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Old 02-23-2012, 08:38 AM   #27
doring
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Oau, the places and pictures are getting better and better. Nice trip you had, I like it. I wait for more
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Old 02-23-2012, 05:47 PM   #28
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Amazing

Your trip sounds great! I spent some time in Ukraine several years ago and hope to go back again soon. Your pictures brought back incredible memories. I wish I could have done it on a bike, but maybe next time. Thank you for sharing!
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Old 02-24-2012, 06:31 AM   #29
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This is great.
Thank you.
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:08 PM   #30
Dickyb
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And.........................................then what happened?


Cheers,


Dickyb
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