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Old 02-27-2012, 10:07 AM   #16
Wirespokes
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Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon
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You're obviously flowing way too much fuel, unless you're pushing the bike harder than Supershaft (one of our 'hard riding' inmates here).

Simple first steps would be checking the fuel level in the float bowls (should be about 1/2" down from the lip) - it's probably a LOT higher than that. Adjust the floats or figure out why it's high. Next would be to inspect the choke bodies to make sure they're secure with no loose mounting screws or sucked-in gaskets. Make sure the chokes turn off all the way.

Running premium gas won't hurt the bike in the slightest.

Where-abouts in Oregon are you located? The rainy side is actually quite large - probably a third of the state - everything west of the Cascades.
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:50 PM   #17
alvincullumyork OP
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I'm in Corvallis going to OSU. If any inmates are around and would like to swing by and see what I got, I would probably pee myself with joy.

I have the owners manual and one other simple how to book but I think it might be in my brothers storage unit in California.

The hard part is finding time and a covered space to do anything.

eta: Okay, I might not pee myself.

alvincullumyork screwed with this post 02-27-2012 at 02:00 PM
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:31 PM   #18
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Head down to Eugene and find an inmate named Alaine..just finished building an early '80s R80G/SPD Paris Dakar replica for him. Great guy and you two could learn about G/Ss.

Start with the simple cheap things...check the gas, see what's leaking, learn how to adjust the valves, adjust the carbs. Timing never changes unless it breaks. Check the cables. Like all the other advice on this list...start with easy things first.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:47 PM   #19
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What everybody has said. It could be almost anything but nobody has mentioned the battery. It could be a bad battery. Check cranking volts and charging volts. My next guess would also be the gray crack-o-matic coil.
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:51 PM   #20
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I received the Bing book this week & read it thru. It is an excellent read & explains the carb circuits & what each component does & why.
I'd really recommend you read the book before you start rebuilding your carbs (or while you are doing it) as it really puts an explanation to what you're replacing & cleaning. I wish i had read it a year ago.
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:57 AM   #21
R100LT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
I received the Bing book this week & read it thru. It is an excellent read & explains the carb circuits & what each component does & why.
I'd really recommend you read the book before you start rebuilding your carbs (or while you are doing it) as it really puts an explanation to what you're replacing & cleaning. I wish i had read it a year ago.
What is this Holy book that thou has mentioned ???
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:37 AM   #22
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Quote:
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What is this Holy book that thou has mentioned ???
Bing
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:15 AM   #23
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Thank you oh blessed angels for spreading the word of The Bing
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:57 PM   #24
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Thank you oh blessed angels for spreading the word of The Bing
You may or maynot know how everything works in your carbs but for a noob it gives a really good rundown of the interactions between different parts in the combustion cycle from carb to exhaust pipe.
If you've pulled apart a few carbs etc you may not learn much from it.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:28 PM   #25
alvincullumyork OP
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So I replaced all the fuel lines, cleaned out the carbs and the gas tank. Some of the fuel lines were cracked, I don't think they were leaking yet, so I just bought some new ones. The carbs were a little dirty but not to bad I took them apart and and scrubbed them down with carb cleaner. The gas tank was horrible. The filters that go above the petcocks were completely filled with gunk. When I poured the gas out of the tank there were a couple of large parts of the inside lining, quite a bit of water and a little bit of rust(this could have been smaller chunks of tank lining though). One of the breather line(I'm not sure if this is the correct name) nipples was was corroding under the paint right at the tip. This made is swell up and I had to cut the hose off of it. I cleaned it up as best I could and replaced those lines as well.

After all this I put it back together and put a gallon of gas in it and rode around for awhile to make sure things still worked. It seemed okay. So I filled the tank and now have 14 trouble free miles. I figure around 40 or 50 miles I will go fill up again to see if my gas mileage problem Has been fixed. If not then I think I will be doing a full rebuild and start from new tuning of the carbs.

Think I need a new tank or can the one I have be saved?

The only one I have found so far but this is way out of my league.

http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/P...S-R80GS-R100GS

Once again thanks for the help.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:57 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alvincullumyork View Post
The gas tank was horrible.....filters..completely filled with gunk......poured the gas out of the tank there were a couple of large parts of the inside lining......water......little bit of rust.....one of the breather line ...nipples was was corroding under the paint right at the tip
Unless water has been sitting in the tank for a very long time it is unlikely that the tank will have rusted enough to be a concern.

It is common for the original "red" lining/coating to start flaking away.

Budget solution is what you have done. Do a periodic check on the in-tank filters and keep your in-line filters as well. Treat the rust on the outside around the breather tube with a "rust converter" type material/primer.

Next step would be to do a complete tank relining. Lots of threads on suitable materials and how-to article. A $50 POR-15 kit is is a common solution, but there are plenty of alternatives.
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:27 PM   #27
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Very good that POR15. It encapsulates and can even fix small holes. Yes all my red lining fell off over a winter, well not all because as I cleaned the loose stuff more kept plugging the filters so I did the POR15.Still took a while doing that and I did not have rust to deal with.

Unless you can stick a borescope in there you'll never really know what's still lurking in there and it may just keep on happening the plugged filters.

My advice....find a shop that does the tank relinings, not really worth the trouble doing it yourself because you'll never really know if you got all the rust/red crap out first.

Mind you a quick cheap DIY to clean the tank is filling with stripping vinegar, not the wimpy household stuff, and then a handful of Drywall screws....then Shake Shake Shake! The stripping vinegar is much cheaper than Evaporust and worked just as good on something very rusty I cleaned last week.

Or as I did, drive around with your tank in the trunk for a few days with the cleaning solutions, screws and weighted "Curly Kate" inside.

Make sure them vent/drain pipes aren't plugged, on some GSs like mine they run through the tank,sounds like yours also... that could be quite a pain if they did break inside from the corrosion.One of mine was sure plugged and that was all corrosion, may have been just a matter of time until the pipe broke.
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:08 PM   #28
alvincullumyork OP
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And after the most miserable 40 miles I am back to pour running. Time to do some thorough tank cleaning.
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:20 AM   #29
alvincullumyork OP
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Is there any valving above the breather line nipples? Or should that be a straight shot into the tank?
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:33 AM   #30
Wirespokes
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I don't follow your terminology. Breather line - is that one of the two lines exiting the bottom of the gas tank? One is the cap drain, the other is the tank vent. But the hose just presses onto the tubing - there are no nipples.

The breather system doesn't have any nipples either... The Breather is the system that allows the crankcase to breathe without dumping oil mist into the environment.

I believe you're talking about the gas tank vent. You can run a wire through the tubing to open it up if it's clogged. It should be free - it exits near the top of the tank close to the filler.
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