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Old 09-07-2014, 07:52 PM   #1
c1skout OP
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"click" from footpegs

1980 R100rt

I've run this bike almost 40,000 miles, so it's not new to me, but in the last month or so I've noticed an occasional "click" through the footpegs. It feels almost like someone tapped the frame one time with a small hammer. I only feel it when I'm pulling out, and I can't MAKE it happen at all. I would guess it may be from the swingarm pivot bearings, only because that is the area where I feel it coming from and they would be slightly stressed when starting to move. with the rear raised I can detect no side ways movement in the swingarm, and I tried the adjuster pins to be sure they weren't loose, all seems normal.

Has anyone had a similar issue?
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Old 09-07-2014, 07:58 PM   #2
bmwrench
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I would suspect a worn cush drive in the driveshaft.
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Old 09-07-2014, 08:57 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwrench View Post
I would suspect a worn cush drive in the driveshaft.
There is a 42mm diameter hardened washer on the top of the fork assembly of a R100GS.

It is just the right size to preload the cush drive a little more and take the click out if the cush drive is the cause.
Also check the retaining circlip at the end of the cush drive it can get hammered flat and be part of the problem.
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:57 AM   #4
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Stupid question,...... are the engine mounting nuts/ studs tight?
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Old 09-09-2014, 03:00 PM   #5
c1skout OP
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I did check the mount bolts as I recently had the exhaust apart at an oil change. Would I be able to feel play in the Cush drive by hand with the final drive removed? Is it serviceable with regular shop tools?
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c1skout View Post
I
1. Would I be able to feel play in the Cush drive by hand with the final drive removed?
2. Is it serviceable with regular shop tools?
1. Unlikely there is a fair amount of preload on the cush drive assembly.
Look for wear in the ramp and cam assembly where the splined drive and retaining collar meet.
Increasing the preload will move the action away from any notching.

Uncoupling from the gearbox end allows enough movement for visual inspection with the Final drive removed.

2. It's much easier to fabricate a tool out of threaded rod, a base plate and a couple of large washers welded together than it is to use available shop tools like a press or clamps.
Preventing articulation of the U-Joint during compression is the key.
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:26 PM   #7
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UPDATE

I tore it all apart tonight. I held the swingarm upright in my vise and used some flat plate and 4 bolts through the final drive mount flange to compress the cush-spring. There is no notchiness in the wear pattern of the ramps or cross, but they are using virtually all of the available travel. The snap ring and its bore seem fine. I think the washer fix to increase preload would cure any slight issues with those parts.

I think the "click" is coming from my U-joint. It doesn't have enough play that I can see it move, but I can feel it in my hands. If I move the joint to different positions through its travel I can make the play that I feel go away.

Is this a joint that my friendly local driveshaft shop could source and install? Can I buy just a joint? Has anyone had luck replacing these joints?
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:19 PM   #8
Rucksta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c1skout View Post

I think the "click" is coming from my U-joint. It doesn't have enough play that I can see it move, but I can feel it in my hands. If I move the joint to different positions through its travel I can make the play that I feel go away.

Is this a joint that my friendly local driveshaft shop could source and install? Can I buy just a joint? Has anyone had luck replacing these joints?


Now that you have a tool to service the shaft would it be worthwhile trying the washer method before you invest in a U-Joint replacement?

I did two driveshaft OEM replacements under warranty for the conditions you are describing in the U-Joint.
After market replacement U-Joints displayed the same behavior. (so yes it's easy enough for a shop to do the conversion)

I chased the click into the final drive and back to the gearbox before discovering the washer method.
I did end up with a well set up final drive & gearbox out of the exercise and eventually no more click.

Hope it all works out well for you.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:20 PM   #9
bmwrench
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If the u-joint is not excessively notchy-a lot of them are slightly notchy and go on for years-you can press the bearings back in. You can do this with a vice and a socket.
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Old 09-13-2014, 12:55 AM   #10
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You guys talked me into trying just the washer trick, so I put it all back together tonight. If the weather holds I'll try it out tomorrow and see if that helped.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 09-15-2014, 07:45 PM   #11
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I've got about 50 miles on it so far since putting it back together and (fingers crossed) no clicks yet!
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