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Old 03-06-2012, 04:21 PM   #46
Barnstormer
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I wouldn't trust those compression numbers at this point. I'd have to think the rings are probably gummed up and not sealing well if it hasn't run in a long time.
I'd say to put a couple ounces of something like Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and let it soak until you get things ready to run. I'll bet the compression comes up and evens out once it's run a bit.
It should certainly start and run with that kind of compression. Probably smoke like a mother for the first while, but get better.
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Old 03-07-2012, 03:49 AM   #47
mmitchell57 OP
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ok, sounds reasonable enough. I'll work in the distributor and not sweat the internals yet.

Friday before I started on the distributor I got the car to fire up. I blew black smoke for a while and then cleared up, but it still ran like crap. After doing the look around I figured it was plug gapping and timing. The plugs were gapped from .029 to .068 so I got new plugs and gapped them to .035 like the manual says. This is when I got into the distributor mess. The damn thing wouldn't spin at all to adjust the timing.

Eitherway, I'm soaking it.
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Old 03-07-2012, 04:23 AM   #48
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Could be the base of the distributor is frozen / stuck / rusted / gummed / painted to the top of the engine block. Go nuts spraying panther piss / penetrating oil in that area, let it sit overnight. You may need to lightly tap with a smaller hammer around the dist. base, to help loosen things up.

Looking at the car, I'm going to be it will need an extreme hard run / blow out before you make any grand decisions about engine health. Unless you hear metal grinding or knocking noises- then the money pit decision is finalized.

I think the distributor is the last thing you should replace on this car. You'll need that money else where. If you can't change the points & cond. on a distributor, you shouldn't be pulling one, unless the timing plate is bungled. Timing one isn't too bad, but it can be aggravating. This car will teach you everything you need to know about basic auto mechanical work and then some.

Also, don't be surprised if it doesn't stop at all on its first drive, and if it doesn't stop worth a darn even after you've replaced every component related to the brake system, from master cylinder to the rear brake drums.

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Old 03-07-2012, 07:31 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by Barnstormer View Post
I wouldn't trust those compression numbers at this point. I'd have to think the rings are probably gummed up and not sealing well if it hasn't run in a long time.
I'd say to put a couple ounces of something like Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and let it soak until you get things ready to run. I'll bet the compression comes up and evens out once it's run a bit.
It should certainly start and run with that kind of compression. Probably smoke like a mother for the first while, but get better.

x1...old Marvel Mystery Oil can work magic on stuff like this. I also like the tube theory above...suck it up a tube and blow it into the cylinder...simple, effective!

Kenny
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:19 AM   #50
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If you do find that squirting oil into the cylinders brings up compression, put a quart of Rislone in with a fresh batch of 10W40 oil.

The solvents in Rislone will get the carbon crud out of your piston rings. I had a '68 302 Ford that sucked a quart of oil every 300 miles. After a couple of weeks running the Rislone, oil consumption had dropped to a quart every 1200 miles.

You can just leave it in because Rislone has high quality base oil in it. That will probably get you going and down the road long enough to make your resto-mod plans for the car.

Nowadays it's a no-brainer to find a good small block stroker and tranny combo for that car. Back in the day, I replaced my tired 302 / C-4 with a nearly new 5.0L HO roller cam motor from a wrecked Mustang and an AOD trans (non electronic) from a police car. Man that worked out nice!

Best of luck on that very cool project. Frozen distributors are a PITA. Just keep soaking it...
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:43 AM   #51
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Ditch the condensor, points, etc...
Get this:
http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

First mod I did to my '67 Camaro's inline 6.
It's easy to install.
It helped it start and run better.
+1 on the Pertronix, I've used them on a slant six and a 440. It is simply to install and everything is under the dist. cap. No moving parts, no wear set it and forget it.


.
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:49 AM   #52
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On another note, if you give the whole car a scrub with a "soft" scotchbrite pad and CLR, and then give the whole car a good coat of wax, it will have a great satin patina. Some folks use linseed oil instead of wax, and you can just wipe it on with a rag any time you want.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:48 PM   #53
mmitchell57 OP
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Ok, I just got the distributor out tonight. Just like you guys suggested, it was soaking for a while. Between soaking in PBblaster, a couple shots of "Freeze Out" and an application of "Creep" it popped loose tonight after a bit of jerk.

Now I need to TDC the engine and get it all back in line. I found the TDC mark on the balancer and moved it to the 0 point on the timing marks. However, it appears that the oil pump runs of the distributor that runs off the cam. So, now I have to get the oil rod to spin to match the distributor. Also, how can I confirm i am TDC? Can I pull the plug on piston one and cop a feel?

Either way, the info so far has been ridiculously helpful. Drinks on the house!
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:07 PM   #54
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Good job. Watching closely. I really like old Fords. Good luck.
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:13 PM   #55
mmitchell57 OP
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Originally Posted by Barnstormer View Post
On another note, if you give the whole car a scrub with a "soft" scotchbrite pad and CLR, and then give the whole car a good coat of wax, it will have a great satin patina. Some folks use linseed oil instead of wax, and you can just wipe it on with a rag any time you want.
damn good idea!
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:15 PM   #56
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Fun fact.

221 engine was made in argentina till 1989.
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:25 PM   #57
NJjeff
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Fun fact.

221 engine was made in argentina till 1989.

Phhhhhew!
I thought you were going to tell us a 22r would bolt right up.
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:09 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by mmitchell57 View Post
Also, how can I confirm i am TDC? Can I pull the plug on piston one and cop a feel?

Either way, the info so far has been ridiculously helpful. Drinks on the house!
The best (simple) way to verify TDC is with a piston stop. You can buy one of these:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane-Cams/271/99412-1/10002/-1

or you can make your own by beating out the porcelain in an old spark plug and tapping it for a long bolt or threaded rod. (Be sure to round the end so it doesn't gouge the piston.)

You run the piston up to about 10 degrees off TDC on your balancer, then adjust the stop until it makes solid contact. You then spin it around backwards carefully until it bumps the stop again. You should see -10 degrees on your balancer. If not, try it again to be sure. If you still get a skewed result, mark zero with a paint line at the halfway point between your two readings.

There you have it! These engines respond well to Stone Age techniques and tools. Make sure the advance plate is moving smoothly and the advance diaphragm is not leaking. Set your carburetor idle adjustment screws for maximum idle vacuum (or close them until idle starts getting rough or slows down, then open them half-a-turn). Set timing anywhere from 6 to 10 degrees before TDC (with distributor advance vacuum line disconnected), then reconnect and drive the car. If it's not pinging on hard acceleration, you can probably dial in a bit more advance. The idle speed should go up as you increase advance. If you get to the point where idle speed is not increasing any more, or idle starts getting rough, back the advance down a couple of degrees. You want to end up just shy of pinging on the gasoline you typically use.
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:44 PM   #59
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A slightly more "stone age" way to confirm TDC is to remove the spark plug and stick a straw (plastic McDonalds type) in the hole. Turn the crank and watch the straw move up out of the hole. You'll be able to see when it stops moving up, pauses for a second, and starts descending. That pause is TDC. Watch that happen while turning slowly and watching the marks on the damper, you'll be able to get it plenty close enough to right that it'll start and run fine to then use a timing light to set it correctly.

You can cut a notch in the end of a dowel or something to stick down the distributor hole and turn the oil pump if need be.

I wish I was closer, I love projects like this.


edit- I can't remember if Fords have a notch or if it's hex. Look at the end of the dist. to confirm.

Barnstormer screwed with this post 03-12-2012 at 07:56 PM
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Old 03-13-2012, 04:52 AM   #60
mark883
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And don't forget, even after finding TDC, you can still set the timing 180* off.

You will know if you did this, because the engine will not start, but it will probably shoot fire out of the carburetor, or at least make strange popping noises.

Do not crank engine with your face directly over the carb.
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