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03-13-2012, 05:07 AM
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#61 |
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Yea, I'll go
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Andover, Ks.
Oddometer: 97
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It's been a while since I worked on a ford, but to find top dead center, pull the valve cover and watch the exhaust valve open and close on cylinder one while rotating the engine. That's the exhaust cycle. Then the intake valve will open and close. You'll have TDC before the exhaust valve opens.
My brother does it with the thumb in the spark plug hole until it blows out. That never worked for me. On a Chevy you can stick a screwdriver and turn the oil pump shaft without any problems so the distributor will line up. Not sure about a ford. Haven't rebuilt a ford engine since '89 or '90. I do a few SBCs every year. KSJeff screwed with this post 03-13-2012 at 08:40 AM Reason: Cleared it up. |
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03-13-2012, 07:00 AM
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#62 | |
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Vulcan Halfbreed
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Quote:
Also, I appreciate the input from both on how to find TDC. I will be giving them both a shot tonight. Once I get the distributor in I should be able to get things running again. Only thing that might hold me up is the Carb rebuild. I purchased a kit from Autozone. I've rebuild a lot of motorcycle carbs so I figure a Car carb can't be any worse, just a bit bigger.
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Projects - www.Goomra.com 1969 CB350 - Restoration Project 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 - Restoration / DD project |
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03-13-2012, 07:02 AM
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#63 | |
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Vulcan Halfbreed
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Quote:
![]() The good news w/ this distributor, You can only install it in one direction due to the vacuum advance. Also, the cap has a "1" marking and can only be installed one way it so you can't get that wrong either. As long as the distributor shaft so the button is at bottom of the first contact and you have TDC when you do it, you should be ok. I'm hoping anyways....
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Projects - www.Goomra.com 1969 CB350 - Restoration Project 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 - Restoration / DD project |
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03-13-2012, 08:29 AM
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#64 | |
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Minister Funny Walks
Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Chillin' in da LB
Oddometer: 1,015
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Quote:
Good luck
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"Son, I thought by now you would have run out of stupid." |
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03-13-2012, 08:56 AM
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#65 | |
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Vulcan Halfbreed
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Quote:
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Projects - www.Goomra.com 1969 CB350 - Restoration Project 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 - Restoration / DD project |
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03-13-2012, 09:11 AM
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#66 |
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Jellyfish Proctologist
Joined: Jun 2005
Location: Adventure Land, Central Africa
Oddometer: 1,946
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Purely for my own interest, give the pine sol carb cleaning idea a try. I've been wanting to try it for a while and just haven't had a carb that needed it yet. And take pics!
(thanks!) |
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03-13-2012, 12:41 PM
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#67 | |
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De Oppresso Liber
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Central New Mexico, 7420ft above sea level
Oddometer: 30,360
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Quote:
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"I claim to be frightened of horses but do so only to get out of attending parades. It's peculiar but ...it works. The Horses get it. RESISTANCE IS NOT FUTILE. IT'S VOLTAGE DIVIDED BY CURRENT |
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03-13-2012, 04:26 PM
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#68 |
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Vulcan Halfbreed
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Ok, I have the new distributor in. Put the cap on the only way it goes on. I hooked up the plug wires as specified in the book. plugs are tightened, i'm not quite sure what I'm missing here. I guess I should check spark next to insure I have that. I know I have gas based on the smell.
Only thing I don't feel 100% comfortable on is the timing. I don't know why, but I don't. At TDC on cylinder one on the compression stroke the distributor button should be connecting to spark plug wire 1 in the distributor from what I understand. I pretty sure I have that setup properly. However, the engine is just turning over and pretends it wants to start but won't. If the generator is shot, would it cause this issue? If I check and I do have spark, it might be timing? In the mean time, the plug wires don't feel very tight where they contact the spark plug. I'm going to make sure they are somewhat snug. i know the carb is somewhat good to go because it ran before I started on the distributor.
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Projects - www.Goomra.com 1969 CB350 - Restoration Project 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 - Restoration / DD project |
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03-13-2012, 04:29 PM
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#69 |
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Puching adventurer
Joined: Mar 2006
Location: State of Maximum Density
Oddometer: 753
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Sometimes condensors are bad right out of the box. When you check the spark if it's yellow or orange, replace it.
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Loud intakes save lives! |
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03-13-2012, 04:55 PM
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#70 | |
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Vulcan Halfbreed
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Quote:
The only thing I've changed since it ran last was the distributor so I am thinking I don't have the timing just right. I'll go back through the whole hoopla of making sure I have the timing down before I mess with anything else.
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Projects - www.Goomra.com 1969 CB350 - Restoration Project 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 - Restoration / DD project mmitchell57 screwed with this post 03-13-2012 at 05:05 PM |
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03-13-2012, 06:25 PM
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#71 |
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Yea, I'll go
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Andover, Ks.
Oddometer: 97
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When your distributor in you need to check that the place where you plug in cylinder #1 matches where your rotor is when 1 is TDC.
So, at top dead center, your rotor should be hitting your cap on #1 and firing that plug. Or in the very near area. The cap doesn't really care where it is, but rotor follows the firing order after it hits #1. I hope that makes sense. |
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03-13-2012, 07:12 PM
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#72 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: S. W. Mssouri
Oddometer: 4,547
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your generator will not keep the car from starting. It will let the battery run down, but you have been charging that, right?
Once you are running then you can worry about the gen Rod |
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03-13-2012, 07:26 PM
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#73 |
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Cashin?
Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Hide Away Hills, Ohio
Oddometer: 16,328
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Point of clarification - when the distributor is timed properly, the leading edge of the rotor will line up with the leading edge of the distributor cap terminal for #1 slightly BEFORE TDC. How much before depends on the timing spec, i.e. if the spec is 10 degrees BTDC that is where the leading edge of the rotor lines up with the leading edge of the #1 terminal of the distributor cap.
The reason I point this out is because dropping the distributor in with the rotor visually lined up with #1 at TDC can actually mean the distributor is a tooth off in some cars.
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"Bueller, you're an island of sense in a sea of bullshit" - swimmer |
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03-13-2012, 08:49 PM
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#74 |
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Jellyfish Proctologist
Joined: Jun 2005
Location: Adventure Land, Central Africa
Oddometer: 1,946
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Did you get the point gap set correctly? (I don't remember if you replaced the points).
If it's the timing, try this- first, mark the position of the distributor where you are pretty sure it's correct. Then, while someone else turns the key, turn the distributor slowly, and see if it gets closer to starting. You may be off a tooth or something. Try both directions. If it's not that, set it back to where it was. |
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03-13-2012, 09:08 PM
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#75 |
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A proud pragmatist.
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C.
Oddometer: 2,860
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Is that distributor somewhat in the middle of its adjustment? That's a good start, then adjust 1/4-1/2" either way if that doesn't work. Leave the bolt just slightly tight so you can turn the distributor by hand and try.
On the road timing...how can I forget that! ![]() Trying to remember...too advanced on the ignition engine struggles to start, may seem like a weak battery or starter on some of the strokes.Too retarded the engine spins allright but doesn't catch....if I remember.
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