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Old 03-14-2012, 07:22 PM   #76
vtwin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper x View Post
it works....
+1
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:24 PM   #77
vtwin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H96669 View Post
On the road timing...how can I forget that!

Yep, we used to call it "Kentucky timing".
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:03 PM   #78
H96669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtwin View Post
Yep, we used to call it "Kentucky timing".
Don't laugh...

Bought an old Chevy once, did that, drove it all the way across Canada in the winter, got there, checked with the lamp...1 degree Off. Inconsequential...!

Roadside tune-ups....who needed a feeler gauge when there was rolling papers. .012" right on the spot for all GMs, worked well on a lot of bikes also.
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Old 03-15-2012, 06:42 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H96669 View Post
Don't laugh...

Bought an old Chevy once, did that, drove it all the way across Canada in the winter, got there, checked with the lamp...1 degree Off. Inconsequential...!

Roadside tune-ups....who needed a feeler gauge when there was rolling papers. .012" right on the spot for all GMs, worked well on a lot of bikes also.

A guy I knew wanted me to help him start his 1968 Chevelle with tunnel and dual quads. Did a quick timing job on it (no light), got it fired up, adjusted timing to ear, adjusted the holleys by ear and it ran pretty sweet. My friend came later with a timing light and said it was pretty much dead on and he couldn't get it to idle any better. A match book makes a perfect points tool. Use the striker to clean the points, and the flap to adjust them to.
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Old 03-16-2012, 05:59 AM   #80
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Wow, the memories, great thread

My wife had a Fairlane that looked to be same year, maybe a year newer, two door.

It had a 6 cylinder in it with a 2 speed. Little wheels and tires and a exhaust leak, she loved it.

No power, but it just putt putt putted everywhere.

I found and bought a 1970 Torino than was wrecked. Pulled the 302 engine and tranny, it pretty much bolted in. And the larger wheels/tires also bolted on, everything went too smooth.

Ran headers back to thrush mufflers and that was it, the car sounded wicked.

With the gearing for the 6 cylinder it kicked butt for what it was, but it did pretty much ruin the car for the wife. Too loud, I gutted the interior and added buckets and a B&M floor shifter (the bench seat was nice....), made it impractical.

I never replaced the cam or valve spings so I quickly over-rev'ed the engine and bent a few pushrods.

Traded it for a transmission for the station wagon, wish I had it back in the worst way.

You should find parts cheap for that car, and they are actually simple to work on.

If you can find a donor car with a good motor, you can upgrade the driveline for a lot less money that you might think.

Electronic ignition is a must, IMO.

Keep the old stuff or eBay it.
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:25 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I_FLY_LOW View Post
Ditch the condensor, points, etc...
Get this:
http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

First mod I did to my '67 Camaro's inline 6.
It's easy to install.
It helped it start and run better.
Absofuckinglutely. I'm in absolute amazement of all the folks talking about twiddling with the idiot points and 10E24 posts down the thread is this advice (finally).

Pertronix has an electronic ignition retrofit for points distributors. It's stone simple to install and goes in place of the existing points. You'll never screw with the stupid things again. It's also not expensive.
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:59 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Felmey View Post
Absofuckinglutely. I'm in absolute amazement of all the folks talking about twiddling with the idiot points and 10E24 posts down the thread is this advice (finally).

Pertronix has an electronic ignition retrofit for points distributors. It's stone simple to install and goes in place of the existing points. You'll never screw with the stupid things again. It's also not expensive.
Points aren't that bad. I installed thousands of sets in customer's cars. Just hooked the dwell meter up, spun the engine over with the starter with the plugs out, and adjusted the gap. My old Triumph still runs on two point sets.
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:10 AM   #83
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Well, I gave things another shot last night. I didn't have much luck to get it to fire up. I think I'm missing something.

I did hope on youtube and fired up a couple video's about setting timing. First things first, I didn't realize ford's firing order was counter clockwise and chevy was clock wise. That was neat. After watching the video's i'm a tiny bit confused....

The block has the sawtooth timing markers in increments of 4 if I remember right. There 0 4 8 12.. going from right to left when looking from the front of the car. So, when setting timing on the distributor, do I want the crank to be at the 12 mark on the saw tooth to make it 12 degree's advance? I've been setting it to 0 and doing my timing from there.

I'm going to get this figured out!
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:07 PM   #84
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Turn the crank until the timing mark is at the specified number of degrees of initial advance. Then turn on the ignition and watch the points while turning the distributor body opposite to the direction of rotation until the points break. You'll see a small spark when they do. Lock the distributor down, and you'll be close enough to start the engine if everything else is OK.
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Old 03-16-2012, 01:29 PM   #85
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Find TDC and set the line on the dampener on the timing mark. Like this:



Drop in the distributor and line up the rotor to the cap where you plug in cylinder #1 (front left on Ford, I think. It's been a while).

Then it should at least stumble. Initial on a Sbc is 8 degrees. Full timing is 36 degrees at 3K rpm. I run HEI ignitions and they are just 12V to the distributor and that's it. I'd recommend an optical trigger or HEI for you.
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Old 03-16-2012, 03:26 PM   #86
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Those timing chains tended to get loose, I remember replacing lots of them.

Easy to check, pop your distributor cap off and turn the crank one direction while watching the rotor - it will move. Keep watching the rotor and turn the engine over the opposite direction, and note how far you have to turn it before the rotor moves.

I forgot how much I loved working on those older cars, that was one of my first jobs. Points, dwell, not bad, but I still prefer electronic now.

And have become a fan of, dare I say it, fuel injection......
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:14 AM   #87
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Will do on this. I was hoping this was the case, but wasn't entirely sure. I'll get on that either this morning or tomorrow morning.

All we need to turn over the engine is spark, fuel, compression, and proper timing. I know I have spark. I'm good enough on compression that it shouldn't inhibit ignition. I should have proper timing if I follow the suggestions throughout the post. Looks like the only 2 thing I need to verify. One would be wires to the right cylinders, which i'm pretty confident they are. The second would be that fuel is getting to the cylinders.

This leads me to insuring that I am getting fuel to the cylinders. If I turn over the engine quite a bit, the choke is wide open and the engine never fires, should the plugs be wet with gas? How about if I didn't check for a day? Last I remember, when I pulled the cylinder 1 plug, it was dry as a bone. It was a day after I tried to original start it after putting in the distributor.

If fuel is an issue, I already have gas making it to the carb. I know this because the accelerator pump burps out gas if it gets pumped and released. On the release gas come from the side of the pump shaft onto the manifold.

Regardless, I know the carb needs to be rebuilt. I was waiting until I got the engine running again to insure I didn't mess with more then one thing at a time. Either way, I'm going to go take pictures and post them up today since I've got a bit of time. Should have em up soon.


Quote:
Originally Posted by KSJeff View Post
Find TDC and set the line on the dampener on the timing mark. Like this:



Drop in the distributor and line up the rotor to the cap where you plug in cylinder #1 (front left on Ford, I think. It's been a while).

Then it should at least stumble. Initial on a Sbc is 8 degrees. Full timing is 36 degrees at 3K rpm. I run HEI ignitions and they are just 12V to the distributor and that's it. I'd recommend an optical trigger or HEI for you.
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:27 AM   #88
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You can rule out the carb quite easily. Shoot a little starting fluid into the carb while cranking. If everything else is good she'll start. You can keep the engine running by shooting a little bit of fluid in as needed. WD-40 used to work good too but I think they've changed the formula to make it less flammable.

If you think the timing might be off, just turn the distributor while cranking. You could be off a tooth. When installing the dist, if you have everything lined up then drop it in the engagement of the dist drive gear into the camshaft gear will actually throw your static timing off. Hope that makes sense. Anyway - don't be afraid to swing the distributor quite a bit in either direction. Just be sure to mark where you started (where you think is correct) so you can get back there.

Good luck! I drove a 1961 Ford Galaxy for 13 years. Put 180,000 miles on it. Sold it with over 350,000 on the clock. MANY, many road side tune ups with nothing but a pocket knife and a few wrenches.
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:38 AM   #89
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Pictures

Here's a picture of it sitting in the garage. I'm still suprised at how this car sits. The roof might come up to my shoulder. I forgot how nice it was. Also, you can see the old distributor. I dislike it... Very much....


Here's a shot of the other side.


The interior looks good considering how old the car is. It appears to be the original colors of the car based on the VIN.


I'm waiting on more pictures to upload.
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:40 AM   #90
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Everytime I see an old project Ford, I think about this video.

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