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Old 03-05-2012, 12:45 PM   #16
johnjen
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The GS-911 has a 'routine' that parks them then when you're done it re-engages the steppers to function properly again.
I would assume the BMW factory diagnostic computer does the same. I'm not familiar with any other systems but would assume they function in a similar fashion as well.

So no the EFI computer doesn't automatically re-engage the steppers all on its own, at least during these diagnostic functions.

JJ
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnjen View Post
The GS-911 has a 'routine' that parks them then when you're done it re-engages the steppers to function properly again.
I would assume the BMW factory diagnostic computer does the same. I'm not familiar with any other systems but would assume they function in a similar fashion as well.

So no the EFI computer doesn't automatically re-engage the steppers all on its own, at least during these diagnostic functions.

JJ

Thanks JJ. Kinda what I figured. Haven't really used the 911 too much yet. Just cleared a fault code and re-set my service interval for another year (glad to not have to rely on the stealer for that anymore!)
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Old 03-30-2013, 03:57 PM   #18
cwieland
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tb balance

I have a '11 r1200gs and recently purchased a gs911 and a harmonizer. My question is that it seems you pick an rpm range to zero ie my understanding is 3500 is recommended. My issue that unlike the utube video I saw my balance is not linear, another words I would think that once you had it "balanced" that it would remain the same or at least be linear as the rpm incresed. This does not seem to be the case.

can someone explain this. The bike is low mileage and runs well, at least untill I started this.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:10 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by cwieland View Post
I have a '11 r1200gs and recently purchased a gs911 and a harmonizer. My question is that it seems you pick an rpm range to zero ie my understanding is 3500 is recommended.
BMW does not recommend 3500. They recommend 1400-1800 RPM, i.e. just as the butterfly begins to move, for adjusting the throttle cables. Adjusting at 3500 can hide big differences since a minor throttle offset there is a very small percentage of the total opening.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:13 PM   #20
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BMW does not recommend 3500. They recommend 1400-1800 RPM, i.e. just as the butterfly begins to move, for adjusting the throttle cables. Adjusting at 3500 can hide big differences since a minor throttle offset there is a very small percentage of the total opening.

So right you are, when I did it based on the service manual I got it spot on in that range. My problem now is I am out of spec at idle.

How do you tell if there is slack in the cables?
The throttle has slack, I suspect this is not the same. And the $64,000 what's the best way to set the slack?
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:02 PM   #21
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With the bike at idle pulling the cable at the throttle body about 1/2 mm should not change the RPM. If the RPM changes within that 1/2 mm the cable is to tight. If the cable pulls more that 1 mm without changing the RPM then the cable is too loose. Repeat on both sides. That is your starting point which gives you about 1/2 mm of adjustment to make the RPM close (I believe the spec is within 15 mbar) at 1400-1800 RPM without messing up the idle.
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:46 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by johnjen View Post
In order to 'properly' adjust the throttle bodies, both stepper motors should be 'parked' so that they are in a fixed equal air delivery position and THEN using the Harmonizer (or manometer of your choice) adjust the throttle cables while the throttle is in an open position to balance the reading shown by the manometer.

And the synch job can't be done properly UNLESS both steppers are properly parked.
Ok, this is where I disagree/get confused. Please correct me here if I'm wrong...

The "steppers" are actually the idle stops, a mechanical stop, ie.they set up the idle RPM by keeping the butterfly valves in the TB's open a crack to idle. They move up and down to make fast idle RPM as req'd by a cold engine temp. Yes?

If so then when balancing the TB's at 3500RPM, the idle stops are not touching the butterfly valves any more and do not need to be "parked". I balance my 2010 GS without using my GS911 to park the steppers and have a beautiful , smooth balance.

No chance of fouling up here if you do not park 'em!
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:50 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by marchyman View Post
BMW does not recommend 3500. They recommend 1400-1800 RPM, i.e. just as the butterfly begins to move, for adjusting the throttle cables. Adjusting at 3500 can hide big differences since a minor throttle offset there is a very small percentage of the total opening.

I balance mine at 3500rpm because that is the RPM of hiway cruising. The tiring handlebar buzz on long trips disappears if you balance at this speed.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:09 AM   #24
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I don't have an opinion on what rpm to balance at off idle but there are several ways injectors can be imbalanced leading to the same problems as air imbalance.

—Different flow rates due to manufacturing tolerance or age

—Different turn on delay

—Different turn off delay

Every several years injectors should be cleaned and checked for matching. My goal is less than 2% difference.

Then to minimize the effect of injector imbalance you can richen the mixture through O2 sensor shifting.

roger 04 rt screwed with this post 03-31-2013 at 08:29 AM
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:24 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by billdonna View Post
I balance mine at 3500rpm because that is the RPM of hiway cruising. The tiring handlebar buzz on long trips disappears if you balance at this speed.
I used to recommend 3500, but have since lowered it to 2500. I agree that 3500 is cruising speed, but at 2500 you get a more accurate balance, and I find that it is still accurate (enough) at 3500 that you won't notice any differences if there are any,

As for parking the stepper motors, I have done it parked, connected and disconnected and found no difference.

Jim
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:57 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by billdonna View Post
Ok, this is where I disagree/get confused. Please correct me here if I'm wrong...

The "steppers" are actually the idle stops, a mechanical stop, ie.they set up the idle RPM by keeping the butterfly valves in the TB's open a crack to idle. They move up and down to make fast idle RPM as req'd by a cold engine temp. Yes?

If so then when balancing the TB's at 3500RPM, the idle stops are not touching the butterfly valves any more and do not need to be "parked". I balance my 2010 GS without using my GS911 to park the steppers and have a beautiful , smooth balance.

No chance of fouling up here if you do not park 'em!
Uh, no, the steppers are an electronic 'stepped' motor that opens (and closes) the idle air bypass circuit. In effect it replaces the Big Brass Air Screw found on the 1100 and 1150 throttle bodies. They electronically (from the fuel injection computer) control the idle for each cylinder instead of it being a fixed amount like the older 1100 and 1150 systems.

Many have reported that 'parking' the steppers is not necessary in order to balance the throttle cables. And while that may be so (I don't have a 1200 to play with this to verify it one way or another) BMW did go to the trouble of providing this function for that reason.

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Old 03-31-2013, 02:23 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by marchyman View Post
With the bike at idle pulling the cable at the throttle body about 1/2 mm should not change the RPM. If the RPM changes within that 1/2 mm the cable is to tight. If the cable pulls more that 1 mm without changing the RPM then the cable is too loose. Repeat on both sides. That is your starting point which gives you about 1/2 mm of adjustment to make the RPM close (I believe the spec is within 15 mbar) at 1400-1800 RPM without messing up the idle.
Who on this Earth can measure .5 mm at a throttle cable and with what?
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:39 PM   #28
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Totally agree with JVB's comments on this one.
I have done the sync several times now with the use of my Gs911 to park the steppers and without, and cannot see any difference at all.
Always balance at around 3000-3500 rpm which seems to work well.
Only have to make minor adjustments each time to balance the throttle bodies back into sync with each other.

When at idle they are not matched but does not effect any noticeable difference in performance.
As JVB says, it's best to do the sync after a valve adjustment.
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:02 PM   #29
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PS:
I have also started to run an injector cleaner in the fuel every now and then to help clean out any junk in the injectors and fuel lines.
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:40 PM   #30
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Who on this Earth can measure .5 mm at a throttle cable and with what?
Eyeball it. I bet you can guestimate 1 mm. .5mm is half of that.

The point is that there should be some small amount of movement that doesn't cause an RPM change. If you get an RPM change right away you don't have any slack.
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