ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Orange Crush
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-07-2012, 07:04 PM   #46
gouralnik
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Oddometer: 134
Thank you

Hello everyone! I have owned a 2004 950 since last Nov here in Australia and I have to say that I learned heaps through this forum. May I say that I literally spent hours reading the HOW and this forum trying to add new info to already existing "manuals" - it's always in the little details and hints when I find myself stuck when actually working on the bike.
I'm due to do my first oil change, install 2nd fan kit, somehow mount the deflector shroud on the second fan etc. More importantly I need to learn how to dismount front and rear tire and how to change the rubber. What are the best tools to get the tires off the rims? Do you get the tires rebalanced each time you change them?
gouralnik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2012, 08:39 AM   #47
Alejo
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Alejo's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Costa Rica Centro America
Oddometer: 181
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
You do have the drain plug in the bottom of the motor right?


of course, mine has one
__________________
Once you ride Off road you will never want to go on road again

Alejo From Costa Rica Centro America
Alejo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2012, 09:22 AM   #48
folknride
Old Adventurer
 
folknride's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Alberta, Canada
Oddometer: 659
Rebound Damping Screw - Rear Shock

Another thread that can rust! Every so often, shoot some WD 40 or the like and give the adjuster a few turns back and forth. It's a weird design, and if it rusts it will break when you try to fix it - then it's nasty and expensive to fix. (ask me how I know this)
folknride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2012, 09:30 AM   #49
Qwik
Adrenaline Addict
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Sunnyvale, California
Oddometer: 6,304
Good stuff Edward.
__________________
Speed bumps never seem to make me go any faster
Qwik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2012, 08:02 AM   #50
Bonova
n00b
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: South Africa
Oddometer: 9
Great thread-thanks guys! Always some new stuff to learn (for me alot of stuff to learn!)
Removed thet screw inside the filler cap on my right tank......just in case
Done a lot of reading on the HOW site and here already, but a lot to still learn...will be watching with interest.
Bonova is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2012, 10:17 AM   #51
mcmann
Motorcycle Maniac
 
mcmann's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Jefferson, GA
Oddometer: 1,620
Add a volt meter

The stock OEM battery is factory activated and may not last very long if it sits idle in a warehouse or dealership. It is a good idea to add a volt meter to monitor the battery and the regulator. Lower priced after market batteries may not last longer than 2 or 3 years . . . depending on how long they sit between rides. You may want to relocate the voltage regulator in a cooler location (it will last longer).

There are many digital meters in the market . . . . or, if you are cheap like me . . . you can use a 2" volt meter for an outboard (make a panel out of plastic to mount.

__________________
Young at heart
Motorcycles . . . my Happy medicine. We Live to Ride & Ride to Live . . .
'14 FZ-09 Street Fighter, for the "Wow World"
'14 Wee2, Adventure Style, for the "Real World"
mcmann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 10:48 PM   #52
Nytro
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Nytro's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Pilot Hill, Nor Cal
Oddometer: 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post

MUD GUARD CUTTING SWINGARM: Take a look at your plastic mudguard that protects your rear shock from debris from the rear tire.
See how it lightly brushes (some bike yes, some bikes no) against the swingarm on the sides? Over the next 25,000 miles that will actually grind a hole in your swingarm. Pull the mudguard off and trim 1/4" off of each side so that there is NO contact with the swingarm (remember to account for suspension compression.. so trim it further up than you think)
I have an aversion to cutting things for some reason. Maybe something about the permanence of it. So unless I absolutely have to I try to avoid it. I used a couple of washers behind the bolt to space the mud guard away from the swingarm. So far so good...
Nytro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2012, 03:21 PM   #53
gefr
Life is a trip
 
gefr's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: East Med, Greece
Oddometer: 3,788
+1 I hate cuting parts when there are other ways.

This plastic mud guard tends to brake because of the heat it lives in, close to the exhaust. So every 3-4 years it will be renewed.
gefr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2012, 03:57 PM   #54
Geek OP
oot & aboot
 
Geek's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Location: 8000ft.
Oddometer: 30,621
Since we're on the topic.. here's a photo of my mudflap with the spacer behind it for reference

Geek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2012, 04:00 PM   #55
mike.l
Adventurer
 
mike.l's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Mid West Ireland
Oddometer: 62
Rebound Damping Screw

Quote:
Originally Posted by folknride View Post
Another thread that can rust! Every so often, shoot some WD 40 or the like and give the adjuster a few turns back and forth. It's a weird design, and if it rusts it will break when you try to fix it - then it's nasty and expensive to fix. (ask me how I know this)
Try as I might, i'll cannot turn the screw even having left it overnight with WD 40 soaking in. Me thinks next I should give it a whack with an impact driver. Is this a good idea?
mike.l is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2012, 04:55 PM   #56
ultrachrome
Poser
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Madrona, Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
To follow up on what Brent said (despite him using Honda red instead of KTM orange )...

This is normally what your oil filter will look like during an oil change:



If your oil filter has waves in it, it is a sign that your water pump needs rebuilding (meaning the seal around the shaft that drives the water pump impeller is leaking and allowing coolant into your oil). The earlier bikes had a different seal and shaft that wore more quickly.. the new bikes have better materials. The new materials do fit in every 950/990 so if you have to replace them, make sure you get the new stuff!
Old seal: brown. New seal: grey
Old shafts: silver New shafts: dark grey/black

There are people with 50,000 miles on their original water pump seal. Some guys were unlucky with earlier bikes and have had them fail in under 10,000 miles.

This is the way your oil filter will look if it has been contaminated with coolant:



...and here is why you need to fix the problem ASAP: Water will cause the oil filter to collapse and starve the engine for oil!


IF you find your filter Wavy but have no choice but to keep riding, REMOVE THE FILTER all together. You are better off not filtering the oil while you get back to civilization than risking a filter collapse and starving the engine for oil

I don't have the energy.. someone want to step up and explain the various tips to make changing the oil easier? ... and to explain why the fuel tanks won't go back on the bike afterward?
My SMT has a sight glass for oil level. Will a coolant leak be evident by oil color?
ultrachrome is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2012, 07:33 PM   #57
adiablolex
Lost again
 
adiablolex's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Third rock from the Sun
Oddometer: 3,693
Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrachrome View Post
My SMT has a sight glass for oil level. Will a coolant leak be evident by oil color?
it would be milky looking
__________________
DRCOOL rides with me
adiablolex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2012, 08:12 PM   #58
slidewayes
slidewayes
 
slidewayes's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: HESPERIA CA
Oddometer: 494
On the rear mudguard .I have found that a little heat (map gas or even the kitchen stove) and you can mold it away from the swing arm and back from that new tire. They are cheep to about $10- $15
slidewayes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2012, 09:55 PM   #59
Braindead
FMR
 
Braindead's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Auburn, CA
Oddometer: 76
Running out of gas

If you run out of gas it means that the left fuel tank is empty (where the fuel pump is located), but there is probably fuel still in the right tank. You can lean the bike over to the left side and transfer fuel from the right tank to the left. This can be done while straddling the bike, I have gone several additional miles using this technique. i always made it to a gas station within a few miles, so I'm not sure just how much fuel can still be "trapped" in the right tank, or how far some people have traveled using this method. Perhaps others can chime in and we will all learn more.

This is a great thread Geek, I have learned a lot.

I'm going to start a related one that deals with trail/roadside troubleshooting, so more experience can be shared.
__________________
2009 990 Adventure

I may have Alzheimer's, but at least I don't have Alzheimer's

more is more
Braindead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2012, 10:39 PM   #60
Hobbes950
Darth Kitten
 
Hobbes950's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Nevada City
Oddometer: 3,598
Just for 990s, correct?
__________________
When in doubt, take it as a compliment.

My Ride Reports
Hobbes950 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:06 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014