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Old 03-28-2012, 10:06 AM   #46
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Go, Leaf, go! You're crazier than I am, dude!
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:37 PM   #47
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The rubberized undercoating on the luggage rack was a major fail.

I'm going to have to wire brush it all off and just repaint with a few layers of enamel. D:=
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:22 AM   #48
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The float bowls are here, and I have internet access at home again.

But it is looking like it is going to start raining in the next few minutes. D:=

Not sure if I will get much done on the rig this weekend. I'm rebuilding one of the forks on the 500 tomorrow, which will interesting, as I don't have a bike lift, and that bike doesn't have a centerstand. So I am taking it down to the farm so I can try to suspend it from an engine lift. I have a feeling that it will turn into a multiple-day project.....

In the meantime, while the internet has been out....

Fender painting. The hack fender was pretty ok on the outside, except for some rust on the sharp edges of the dent. The inside was rusty in a couple of places. So I brushed and sprayed the whole thing. One coat of rust treatment, one coat of primer, one coat of flat black enamel. It will probably scratch up and reveal interesting textures.

I decided not to paint the top of the front fender, because the spiderweb of rust on the hideous chrome is wonderfully ghastly, and I don't want to spoil it. :P

The undersides of the fenders got a thick layer of rubberized undercoating. I haven't gotten around to doing the underside of the hack fender yet.

(yep it started raining, lol)





Let's talk about subframes! Here's what I have to mount to:





Here's something like what I've been thinking:



The subframe would bolt on both sides of the front motor mount, to all three bolts. In the rear, it would bolt to both footpeg bolts and the exhaust hanger bolt. The cable keeper would have to go, for the front top mount, but I 'spect some zip ties would keep all that stuff from dangling.

The piece of round pipe sketched in is so I can adjust the lead. The lower front mount on the Velorex only has up and down adjustment, no forward-back. Once I get the clamps where I want them, I'll probably tack-weld them in place.

I'd probably be better off making the whole subframe out of round tubing, but.... I have a more difficult time welding that stuff. <_<

Does this look strong enough, or do I need to run a piece from that floating corner up to somewhere on the downtube for more triangulation? How about in the back?

Edit: Or maybe I'd be better off replacing the round pipe with a large piece of square stock. Then I could drill it and bolt the lower tab thingies straight through it, with some big fender washers to spread some of the force. Then to change the lead I'd patch the holes and re-drill. >_>

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Old 03-31-2012, 07:14 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaf View Post

Edit: Or maybe I'd be better off replacing the round pipe with a large piece of square stock. Then I could drill it and bolt the lower tab thingies straight through it, with some big fender washers to spread some of the force. Then to change the lead I'd patch the holes and re-drill. >_>
Instead of the fender washers what about drilling a hole a bit bigger than the bolt, say a 3/4 inch hole if using a 1/2 inch bolt through the tubing and welding a 3/4 inch o.d. 1/2 inch i.d. tube in the hole? That way when you tighten the bolt you don't have to worry about crushing the tube and it loosing up. This should work for round or square tubing.
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:24 AM   #50
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Good idea! Hopefully I can find something like that in the junk pile, or make something. :P
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Old 03-31-2012, 12:41 PM   #51
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:33 PM   #52
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I hope you have plenty of popcorn. I'm probably not going to get around to working on a subframe until next weekend, if then. ;P

Dratted week-long work trips! D:=

Haven't had a chance to go Round 4 with the carbs yet. I spent all afternoon rebuilding the forks on the 500. :3

Hopefully tomorrer....
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:36 PM   #53
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On the subject of subframes, do I /need/ to tie the subframe back to the peg mounts for strength, or would it be sufficient to just bolt some large metal coming down from that front motor mount and use that for the lower front SC mount? I think there are places to put all the other mounts...

Is my fingerpaint-looking design too complicated for a hack such as this?
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:47 PM   #54
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Rubberized undercoating inside the hack fender. I want to re-rig the hack fender so it is mounted to the frame rather than the car. Then I can swap in a utility box when needed and still have a fender to keep the mud off my stuff.



I couldn't get the swingarm off without an air wrench, so I degreased it with a toothbrush, wire brushed what I could reach, and painted it on the bike. My chain got some paint on it too, but I don't think it can get any worse, lol. It'll be replaced...



One of these things is not like the other, not like the other, not like the other, lalalala...



The bowls were off a '78 CB750 (too bad they didn't accidentally send the rest of the bike along with them lol). Not /quite/ the same, but they seemed to fit fine.

The manual calls for a float height of 0.61 inches. I don't have a float level meter, so I rounded it off to 5/8" and measured with a tape measure. They were both way too low, and the floats are /supposedly/ nonadjustable, but bending the tab seemed to work fine. >_>

The old gaskets in the new float bowls had been glued in with form-a-gasket, and a good bit stayed behind when I pulled the old gaskets out. I ran out of carb cleaner, so I cleaned them up as well as I could with brake fluid, degreaser, and gasoline. The carbs went back together and didn't leak a bit!!! \o/

All back together!





... Mostly >_>



I still haven't gotten 'round to rebuilding the wiring harness. The ignition seems to work fine, just some lighting issues. I think I'll wait until the frame is mounted before I go a'hacking on it, so I'll know what wires need to go where.

The $300 Wonder Truck graciously volunteered to jump the bike, and I accepted the offer. It fired up and ran pretty good, aside from requiring some choke still once it warmed up. I have a feeling that a combination of the rusted out baffles, rusted out insides of the collector, and the fact that I am using coffee filters for air filters at the moment are contributing to a lean condition. I also shot the headers with high temperature paint in a couple places I'd missed, and shot the collector where it was starting to rust already. It stunk to high heaven as the paint baked into the headers. Yummy.

Then the throttle cable broke the second time I tried to rev it. -_-'



No plug chops for me today. Prolly ought to wait until I have some proper air filtration and exhaust on it, anyway.

Better for it to happen in the driveway than out on the road somewhere, I guess. Haven't decided if I want to get another one or just replace the wire with some weed eater line.

My tachometer makes a terrible noise (you can hear it in the previous videos). I first assumed that the cable needed lubed, but it doesn't do it with the tach removed. :< Any advice on lubing those things without breaking them?

Leaf screwed with this post 04-01-2012 at 05:00 PM
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:30 PM   #55
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Reminder to self: I forgot to reinstall the cotter pin in the front bolt that holds the drum brake strut in place.

Edit: Fixed it! Yay for tie wire. >_>

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Old 04-02-2012, 04:55 AM   #56
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Goodbye, oh money! Alas, poor wallet.

On order:

Consumables (so I'm not counting them in the total):

3x Shinko 244 tires and cheap tubes (2x 4.10-18, 1x3.00-16) - $138.25
Chain - $24.91
15t front sprocket to gear things down a little for tugging - $13.01
Air filter element - $12.50
3x oil filter elements - $28.17

Nonconsumables:

Cheapo throttle cable (I couldn't turn the push cable into a pull cable because... it's missing! :P ) - $14.41
New valve cover rubber bushings (the old ones are thrashed/overtightened and look like they'll crumble as soon as I crack it open to adjust the valves) - $13.46
Drain bolt washer (currently missing) - $0.32
Fuel hose and clips (it has a piece of aquarium hose on it at the moment) - $3.28
Flange nut (to replace one I lost in the gravel) - $0.30
2x (decent) cargo nets (I don't want to lose my junk at 55 mph...) - $17.92


Tug total: $744.28
Hack total: $1025

Overbudget!!! :P
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:54 AM   #57
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Quick update: I haven't given up on this or anything. Just waiting on that latest batch of parts to ship, and I'm out of paint and haven't been through town while the hardware store is open yet.

Of all the things to be discontinued, I got a notice with my order that the OEM 7/32 fuel hose is no longer available. Due to a global shortage I am sure... The hardware store in town must have the last roll on the planet! :P
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:26 AM   #58
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Yanno, I am about as dumb as they come.... Sometimes I think if I was any dumber I'd just keel over and die from brain nonfunction lol.

I should have gone /up/ on the front sprocket size, not down. Derp derp. D:=

Oh well. I guess I can return it. Or sell it on ebay.

Maybe it'll fit on the ol' Rebel and I can just use it the next time she needs sprockets...

Edit: No wait... I did go the right way..... 32/16 stock = 2.00 f/d ratio. 32/15 modified = 2.14 f/d ratio. Not quite as much as I expected. Might need to add a tooth on the back too...

Incidentally, why did they go with an even 2.00 f/d ratio and an even 100L chain with the stock setup? Wouldn't this cause the chain/sprockets to wear unevenly? Don't you want to try to use cogs with a prime (or at least relatively prime) number of teeth whenever possible??? By that rationale, a 15-37 setup would give a 2.46 f/d ratio and good wear patterns. Maybe too high a ratio. 13-31 would give 2.38, but 13t may be too small for the chain.....

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Old 04-07-2012, 05:24 PM   #59
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I figured I could do some sanding on the tub today to get it ready for paint.



Hey, Team Red Bull. If you give me a lifetime supply of that stuff, I'll paint your logos all over the bike. Maybe even all over my body. Addiction is a terrible thing. X_x

The intention was to just rough it up so my primer would stick, but there turned out to be a lot of bubbles and chips that were flaking off. There are many such spots, but this is the worst one. I haven't decided if I want to fill these areas with bondo and sand again, or if I just want to paint it and be done.



I started spraying the primer, and immediately ran out.



It looks fairly keen next to the bike, though. At least to my eye...



Upon discovering that I had even less primer than I thought, I mounted the headlight bucket back up. The right-hand signal is only in there to hold it together until I get the right sized bolt to delete it and remount it on the hack fender (the signals hold the bucket on).



The Trail 90 luggage rack, just laying on there for eyeballing purposes. It'll be a shade higher in the end. I need to weld some mounts onto the rack that will fit the bike. The old antique plate will become a mud flap on the back when I get a legal plate.



The rubberized undercoat globbed on the back and made a godawful looking ugly, but I think I'll leave it like that just for the love of ugliness.



Ultra-kludge to mount the tail light. I think that strap was originally part of the seat or something. It isn't exactly rock solid, but the zip ties (which go through the license plate bracket and stabilize it a lot) will keep it from falling away and breaking if the strap breaks.



This is the OE rear quarter fender. As you can see, the way the brake light mounts to it would get in the way of the Awesome Luggage Rack.



Amazingly crappy and tiny Shop Vac that I won at a white elephant party two christmases ago. It cost $20 when new and clogs up if you try to suck up anything other than dust.... But the hose is the exact right inner diameter to make some fork boots with it.... >_>

Also shown is my once-nice Carhartt cat-scratching post. Kind of like a thumb over the lens, but not...



I'm not going to pull the forks off and make the fork boots until I have my tires and tubes. I'll just do that and install the 18" front rim all at once and not have to take everything apart twice...

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Old 04-08-2012, 10:21 AM   #60
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Looks like the mounting sub frame fabrication is coming up soon.
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