A Few Days Solo in Baja

[linksIT]

great stuff

[Pantah]

Not bad for a Downeaster.

I enjoyed your day trips poking around Tucson. This trip is awesome, though. I noticed the roads can be quite sandy down there, like where you approached the hot springs camp. How did your Suzy handle that?

I had a hard time with sand in AZ on my 250, until I put some better tires on it. I did a 13 mile wash after that and once I got my speed up a little, the bike tracked well enough. What was your experience so far?

PS: That camp spot was fantastic. I gotta' try that place sometime. Regarding the trash, it's even like that in Cabo. Too bad. Disposable plastic is the worst thing to happen to Baja.

[urbanXJ]

thanks for posting, great photos

[going south]

Baja is so Beautiful!!! Great Pic's!!!!

Thanks for taking the time and sharing......

Keep 'em coming.....

[K_N_Fodder]

Nicely done, thanks for taking us along. Some day...

[kobukan]

Originally Posted by Pantah

. . . I noticed the roads can be quite sandy down there, like where you approached the hot springs camp. How did your Suzy handle that? . . .

The more I rode through that stuff the faster I went. I started out thinking my tires weren't really very good for it, and there's probably some truth in that, but it had more to do with my skills than the tires imo. When you start riding roads like that for tens of miles at a time you just get used to it. After a while I found a speed that worked and learned to shift my weight front to rear as needed to float over the sand. The DR650 did surprisingly well on the sandy roads. Deep sand was another story, but I think that's a problem on just about anything. We don't see much sand in Maine so we don't get to work on sand skills so much. Southeastern AZ is very rocky, not really that much sand unless you're in a wash.

[kobukan]

Gonzaga Bay consists of a row of houses on one end of a beautiful beach, some palapas for camping on the other end of the beach, and a dirt airstrip. At the entrance to the road that leads up to the beach is a PEMEX gas station, and across the street is a store (Rancho Grande Mini Mart) that, considering its location is very well stocked with most things one might need while visiting Gonzaga Bay.



I wasn’t sure if I’d camp or try to get a room at Alfonsina’s so I wanted get a look at Alfonsina’s. I rode along the row of houses all the way to the end and, despite the big sign at the intersection with the main road, I couldn’t find any place that said Alfonsina’s. All that way, it had to be right there, and I couldn’t find it! So, I rode back across the street to the store to inquire about the gas station, grab a snack and something drink, and hopefully find out where the heck Alfonsina’s was.







The store was surprisingly well kept and almost looked out of place way out there. I tried asking a couple questions of the nice folks running the store, but they didn’t speak much English, though they did seem very polite. Fortunately, there were several people shopping in the store who were all speaking English and seemed like they were pretty familiar with the area. I sat down on a bench just outside the entrance with my snack and it wasn’t long before a nice lady struck up a conversation with me. I guess I looked like a traveler who could use some info. It turned out that she and her husband, who were from Utah, were renting a house on the beach for the winter. I told her I was looking for Alfonsina’s, but rode down the beach and didn’t see it. She informed me that it was the last place at the end of the beach and they were renting the place a couple doors down and said I could follow them over and they’d show me where it was. Very helpful!

So I followed them over and they told me all about Alfonsina’s and how nice the people there were, and how good the food was, and that I should really consider staying there because it was a really great place. She even went in to talk to the folks there with me since she knew them, and I didn’t speak Spanish. I decided to take a room for the night, but it was a little pricey for Baja - $55 a night, and no negotiating! Oh well, it was worth it. The view was great and I had a chance to meet several other travelers and gather some good Baja info while I was there. I met an older couple from Canada who had traveled throughout Baja several times over the years, and a very nice older gentleman and his son from Wisconsin who were traveling on bikes (KTM950 & 800GS) further south into Baja to do some fishing. The dad kept asking me to go fishing with them, but that would have added at least several days to a trip that was only intended to be a few days total so as much as I appreciated the invitation I had to decline. I also met an older guy from SoCal who was staying at Alfonsina’s, but had rented houses in a number of places in Baja over the past thirty years. We talked for a while and I learned a little more about Baja.

Alfonsina's




Now, a little about Alfonsina’s . . . the people were very friendly, and the view was great, but it wasn't exactly a five star hotel, nor did I expect it to be. I mean no disrespect when I say that, it’s just that compared to what we typically see in the US it was . . . well, let’s just say that on a five star scale it would have gotten about a half star in the US. I’m not complaining, and I would stay there again, but it takes a little getting used to the conditions in Baja. There’s good and bad in this . . . after all, part of the draw is the remoteness and the lack of many things most of us take for granted in our everyday life. There is no electricity available other than what is produced by solar panels; therefore there are no power outlets in the rooms - only lights. There was hot water, which I was grateful for, but I think the bathroom and shower would have given my wife what she would refer to as the “heebie-jeebies.” It didn’t bother me so much. I only mention these things so that you’ll know what to expect - in case you’re thinking about bringing your wife.
Life is different there - simple, in a good way, but things are not as clean and well-kept as we are typically accustomed to in the US. I cannot stress enough how friendly everyone there was, from the staff at Alfonsina’s to every one of the other travelers I met. Bikes were parked out front with little worry about anything happening to them. I felt safe and comfortable the whole time I was there.

The view from my room






I’m not really much of a beer drinker, but a fellow traveler offered to buy me one . . .


Gonzaga Bay was absolutely gorgeous






A few fishing boats in the bay


I had fueled up the bike when the PEMEX opened up again after 4:00 pm, did whatever had to be done to prepare for day three, which would turn out to be the longest and most interesting day of my little adventure, then got a good night’s sleep.

[RedRockRider]

Great ride report and pics. Thanks.

[Ol Man]

Enjoying your trip and pictures.

I have a question for some of the old timers. A group of us used to go to San Felipe/Gonzaga most every year from the mid '80s to mid '90s. One of our favorite beer stops was at Speedy's, just north outside Puertocitos. He was old when we stopped and I was just wondering how long he was around. It seemed like he always had a new girl friend every year.

We sure enjoyed those trips and reading these Baja reports brings back good memories.

[kobukan]

Originally Posted by Ol Man

Enjoying your trip and pictures.

I have a question for some of the old timers. A group of us used to go to San Felipe/Gonzaga most every year from the mid '80s to mid '90s. One of our favorite beer stops was at Speedy's, just north outside Puertocitos. He was old when we stopped and I was just wondering how long he was around. It seemed like he always had a new girl friend every year.

We sure enjoyed those trips and reading these Baja reports brings back good memories.

I don't recall seeing it, but next time I'm headed down I'll let you know . . . you can meet me in Calexico and we'll go see if we can find Speedy.

[Hogslayer]

Love the pictures and great writing, looks like your having an awesome ride so far,good luck with the rest of your trip.

[WilderRider]

Great report. I just was down there in October and loved Gonzaga bay. I stayed under a palapa and enjoyed myself thoroughly. It is nice how great everyone is down that way and how NOT scary the checkpoints really are.

You don't happen to have coordinates for the campsite from the first night? I see you got the 60csx on there.

[kobukan]

Originally Posted by WilderRider

Great report. I just was down there in October and loved Gonzaga bay. I stayed under a palapa and enjoyed myself thoroughly. It is nice how great everyone is down that way and how NOT scary the checkpoints really are.

You don't happen to have coordinates for the campsite from the first night? I see you got the 60csx on there.

Yeah, the checkpoints reminded me of the border patrol checkpoints in AZ - if anything the border patrol guys were more serious. I passed through three military checkpoints and one Policia Federal checkpoint without any issues at all. The Policia checkpoint was a random spot two officers had setup and they were out in the road with automatic rifles, but they just politely waved me through.

Coordinates for Canyon de Guadalupe: N32 09.233 W115 47.299 Check it out if you get a chance. I'd go back.

[schaffer40]

Great report.

I am interested in what you packed for the trip. Your kit is very compact from the looks of it.

Maybe a follow up to the ride report after you get home and are unpacking.

Have fun and be safe.

[WilderRider]

Originally Posted by kobukan

Yeah, the checkpoints reminded me of the border patrol checkpoints in AZ - if anything the border patrol guys were more serious. I passed through three military checkpoints and one Policia Federal checkpoint without any issues at all. The Policia checkpoint was a random spot two officers had setup and they were out in the road with automatic rifles, but they just politely waved me through.

Coordinates for Canyon de Guadalupe: N32 09.233 W115 47.299 Check it out if you get a chance. I'd go back.

Thanks for those. Yep, I like the idea of the quite campsite you had there. Better than where I stayed on my first night down there.

And I would agree with you about the border patrol being more serious. Even when they knew I was American they seemed more interested in hassling me than any Mexican soldier or federale