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Old 03-09-2012, 06:43 AM   #31
Tbone
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On 2 strokes I don't think heat will be an issue. I'd skip the wrap.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:59 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by ggamster View Post
This could be a bit to much info for most, but I thought it was crazy how detailed it was.

http://3cyl.com/mraxl/manuals/chambe...003exhaust.pdf

The reason I was reading is I was debating about using exhaust wrap on the upper part of the pipe where it gets close to the tank and carb. I'm still not sure if I'm going to do it, but I was wanting to reduce some noise and keep the fuel as cool as possible. I understand that the scavenging effect of the pipe works off of sound waves and that wrapping the pipe could effect that. This is the reason for the partial wrap, but if there is a down side other than potential rust I won't do it. I have read very mixed opinions on this and don't have my mind made up. Done anyone have results relating to this?
Here is the answer to the above question. I guess I won't be doing the wrap.

"Another approach to altering the tuned RPM of an expansion chamber is to alter the speed of the pressure waves inside the exhaust pipe. The speed at which pressure waves travel is greatly affected by temperature: higher temperature means faster wave speed. As a result, expansion chambers can be retuned for higher-than-design RPM resonance, by increasing the average temperature of the exhaust gases inside the pipe. Techniques to achieve this increase in gas temperature can include: insulating the pipe (thermal wrap), restricting flow from the pipe (smaller stinger diameter), or by retarding the ignition timing at the correct RPM (a later burn allows more heat to escape into the pipe).
Conversely, a pipe can be retuned to work at a lower-than-design RPM range by reducing the temperature of the exhaust gases. Injecting water or a water-alcohol mix into the headpipe of an expansion chamber can reduce temperatures significantly, enough to lower the tuned RPM of an exhaust system by as much as 1500-2000 RPM. The heat absorbed as the liquid changes into a gas is responsible for the drop in temperature. As a result, the two stroke exhaust can be tuned to stay "on the pipe" over a remarkably wide RPM range, if the designer takes advantage of all the tools available."



this is straight from Wikipedia if you can believe that.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:17 AM   #33
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I like what you're doing. We need more pix......

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Old 03-09-2012, 07:43 AM   #34
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Cool project, keep us up on it!

Moar pictures!!
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:51 PM   #35
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Some Stuff is in

Ok, so I got the bars, grips, risers/adapters, and the 10oz fly wheel weight in today. I will be posting photos this weekend of the install and the differences.
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:58 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by ggamster View Post
Ok, so I got the bars, grips, risers/adapters, and the 10oz fly wheel weight in today. I will be posting photos this weekend of the install and the differences.

Good.

I found helmet cam footage of mine. Its pretty mundane but it does point out some of the things you might encounter. There is a loose rocky hillclimb that I fail on due to deflection and then poor throttle control/lack of traction. Its a moderate hill that is pretty doable (75%) on full size bikes. I would have done better in a gear or two higher, more corner momentum ,clutch feathering etc.

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Old 03-10-2012, 06:55 AM   #37
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Laugh Bar Install

So like I said. I got the bars, riser/adapters, and grips yesterday afternoon. Last night I put them on and documented the changes as much as possible. Some of my info maybe a little simple for most to figure out, but I like detail. So here you go.

The parts are:

The Bars are Pro Taper Henley Bend (one of the tallest with least bend bike I could find. I wanted to open up the cockpit as much as possible.)
The adapters are Pro Taper
The Grips are Scotts


The tools needed are:

Razor Knife
Drimmel Tool
10 mm socket
8 mm socket
6 mm allen
Ratchet
philips
Blue Threadlock
Type 2 Gasket Sealer

This should be what it look like when you start.



First cut the grip off of the throttle tube. Be sure to remove all of the old grip material.


Now that you have the grip off loose the two philips screws under the rubber guard.


Now using your philips and 8mm socket to remove everything from the stock bars.
Next use you 10mm and remove the four 10mm hex head bolts holding the bar clamps on.
Remove the bars.
You can see the difference in the bends.


Ok, so now you have the bars off and it is time to install the adapter/risers. Put a little blue thread locker on the four black 6mm allen head bolts.
Bolt the adapter/risers on with the overhang facing outward.
Tighten them down into the factory bolt holes
It should look like this when done


Next be sure to spread a little of the red grease that is stuck down in the throttle when the factory put to much in.
At this point you may want to use your dremmel tool to remove the end of the throttle tube if you are doing BarkBusters latter.(Which I am)
Then slide the tube assembly over the loose bar.
Next set the bar in the new mounts
Apply thread locker to the four 10mm bolts supplied and install the top caps lightly
I make these tight. I don't worry much about factory torque specs on bars. Make them so they can't move.
Undo the 8mm bolt on the front number plate and drop all cables and wires under this mount.
This give you plenty of slack for the extra height.
You will notice that you have a plastic mount on the number plate that now has nowhere to go. Cut it off.

When done it should look like this

Next loosely mount the bar accessories
Now apply a bit of gasket sealer or grip glue to the bars. Use enough that you get full coverage but don't glop it on.
It should look like this.

Apply your grips and wipe off the excess.
I used carb cleaner for this.
Now adjust everything to you liking.
Ziptie your kill switch wire to your clutch cable below your adjuster
Install your pad and you are done and it should look like this.

The difference is as follows:

2" in bar height gain.
The factory bars with grips were 29.25" wide now they are 31.75" wide. I like wide bars for control.
I couldn't fined a accurate way to measure the front to back change but it is so much more open. I would say my hand set 4" further forward.
Great change and it cost $110 for all the parts from the local dealer.
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Old 03-10-2012, 10:47 PM   #38
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that tab off the number plate acts as a guide for the front brake line.at full compression the line is going to hook on the back side of the plate and it will not be good!.......
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:03 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by ROUNDSTOCK View Post
that tab off the number plate acts as a guide for the front brake line.at full compression the line is going to hook on the back side of the plate and it will not be good!.......
I would agree on most bikes, but on the kx100 this isn't a possibility. The shape of the plate in conjunction with the bar pad won't allow that to happen.
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:12 PM   #40
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The new Fly Wheel Weight got installed and the bike is Crazy fun!

So here is a video in my woods. It is a great fun place to ride. It was muddy but the bike had unbelievable traction. I am so much faster on this bike than I was on my KTM 125SX or on my G650X Challenge. Keep in mind I was still breaking in the engine so I couldn't get on it hard. It is so much fun. I have the 10oz fly wheel weight on now and I will post the easy how to on Wed. This bike rips!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYj1H...rmlES2dji2NhQ=
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Old 03-11-2012, 04:11 PM   #41
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Congrats on the bike

Congrats on the bike- you'll love it. I have an 07 KX 100 too. I am 5'9 and 180. I use it for riding with the kids. Check my sig- I also have a TTR125 that's been warmed up a bit for me too. Mini's are fun. Check out planet minis website.


Not to knock your thread- I don't get it. In the some assembly required- are we dropping all "builds" here? I mean you just need to raise the bars, set up the suspension with springs and revalve, add a flywheel weight and off you go. You could do some other things too, but most fall into the bling category. Where's the build? I could see it if you were dropping a 125 into the smaller chassis or visa versa, (heck- I put a XR 200 into a KDX200 frame) but this is bolting on parts that most riders do anyway.

Sorry to be a jerk- not trying to be- just wonder what this category is coming to.
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:09 PM   #42
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:35 PM   #43
dentvet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggamster View Post
So here is a video in my woods. It is a great fun place to ride. It was muddy but the bike had unbelievable traction. I am so much faster on this bike than I was on my KTM 125SX or on my G650X Challenge. Keep in mind I was still breaking in the engine so I couldn't get on it hard. It is so much fun. I have the 10oz fly wheel weight on now and I will post the easy how to on Wed. This bike rips!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYj1H...rmlES2dji2NhQ=


That is the weirdest point of view ever. It like you're seated in the chair of an arcade game. very fun to watch, well done. i need to learn to ride sitting like that. glad it worked out so well
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:06 AM   #44
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I've seen it happen

Quote:
Originally Posted by ROUNDSTOCK View Post
that tab off the number plate acts as a guide for the front brake line.at full compression the line is going to hook on the back side of the plate and it will not be good!.......
Put that tab on the numberplate back on. You think it can't happen on your particular setup, it can. With all kinds of static testing, it CAN'T happen. It can, and does, under riding conditions. I have seen a coupla serious endos caused by the front brake hose/cable snagging. I saw a guy go to the hospital when his topout springs sacked and his front brake cable locked over a jump. Please don't question this, just put it back.

willis 2000 screwed with this post 03-12-2012 at 12:10 AM Reason: that part is there for a reason
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:26 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by dentvet View Post


That is the weirdest point of view ever. It like you're seated in the chair of an arcade game. very fun to watch, well done. i need to learn to ride sitting like that. glad it worked out so well
Thanks, I had it tilted a little low. It is my "chesty mount" for my GoPro.
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