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Old 04-29-2014, 11:16 AM   #1
Full Power OP
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Homer, Alaska
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WR250... Alaska thread

The thumper section has 3000 page WR250 thread going, Aint nobody got time Fo' DAT.
.
So, you local WR riders: JustinConsistent, Skierd.. Tell me about your WR.
What's your handlebar choice, How long will a D606 last on the Dalton hwy, what are you using for Moose lights, .
Handguards, heated grips, etc.
.
.
Particular questions for Justin, or anyone took a 250 to Prudhoe:

Only 87 octane is available Coldfoot and Deadhorse,, how'd your High Compression mini bike do on the regular gas ? any audible ping ?
How much spare gas did you carry for the Mini Assault on Deadhorse ?
.
Thanks for any info you have...
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:34 AM   #2
crashmaster
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Alaska
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I just bought one as well at the end of last summer.

So far: 3.1 IMS tank, wolfman racks and bags, 2 gallon rotopax on the rack, 12 O'Clock labs/DRC tail light integrated turn signals, speedo healer. Eastern Beaver fuse/relay block for adding additional electronics like LED aux lights, heated grips, plug for heated jacket liner. Fastway pegs. Left the fueling and the exhaust/airbox stock for simplicity's sake. Looking at lowering the gearing a bit but have not decided on the sprockets yet.

Still need a good skid plate, fat bars (maybe a Henry Reed bend), and some other odds and ends. Also looking at a Lynx fairing possibly, but may just cut a piece of lexan and screw it to the headlight fairing for a little budget chest wind protection.

I read about a lot of folks getting 70 mpg on the WRR, but I have not really seen much over 55 mpg, 60 tops and that was taking it easy. With the rotopax I have roughly a 275 mile range @ 55mpg average. I did run some 87 in the bike just to see how it would do. I thought I could hear a very slight pinging when the engine was under load, but with the wind noise it was hard to tell. Unfortunately we don't seem to have enough high elevation riding around here to negate high compression/low octane thing.

So far all I was able to do before the snow fell last year was to ride around the peninsula and hit some old dirt roads and oil well roads. Looking forward to some nice long trips on it this summer and really getting to know the bike as well. Interested as to what the experienced guys say to your questions.

Vin
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Old 04-29-2014, 05:06 PM   #3
skierd
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87 octane is fine. With the IMS 3.1gal tank I needed an extra 2gallons to make sure I had range for the stretch from Coldfoot to Deadhorse. I average 50mpg on road, 60mpg off, giving me 150-180 miles on the stock tank. I can't hear pinging over the exhaust or skid plate. but I've literally run on 87octane for thousands of miles with no issues.

I get upwards of 5000 miles out of a D606 rear, at least in the lower 48. Haven't run one up here yet. Cords start showing at 7000 miles. Haven't had a dirt front last more than 3500 miles yet, DOT or not.

I like ProTaper Evo bars, Windham/RM bend, using the factory yamaha GYTR fatbar clamps. Stock bars are better with heated grips, steel doesn't conduct as much heat as aluminum so your hands stay warmer.

Never run aux lights, get in the way on the trails and the sun's up whenever it's warm enough to ride. ;)
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:56 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd View Post
87 octane is fine. With the IMS 3.1gal tank I needed an extra 2gallons to make sure I had range for the stretch from Coldfoot to Deadhorse. I average 50mpg on road, 60mpg off, giving me 150-180 miles on the stock tank. I can't hear pinging over the exhaust or skid plate. but I've literally run on 87octane for thousands of miles with no issues.

I get upwards of 5000 miles out of a D606 rear, at least in the lower 48. Haven't run one up here yet. Cords start showing at 7000 miles. Haven't had a dirt front last more than 3500 miles yet, DOT or not.

I like ProTaper Evo bars, Windham/RM bend, using the factory yamaha GYTR fatbar clamps. Stock bars are better with heated grips, steel doesn't conduct as much heat as aluminum so your hands stay warmer.

Never run aux lights, get in the way on the trails and the sun's up whenever it's warm enough to ride. ;)
Same skierd as on the WR forum?
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:54 PM   #5
RDJEff
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There's two of these beauties at our house! My wife has an '08, and mine is a '10. Hers has Happy Trails metal cases and a SlipStream Spitfire windscreen. Mine has a homemade HDPE skid plate and rear rack, Kolpin 1.5 gallon can, and Zeta hand guards, and will soon have the SlipStream screen.

We're just about set up for D2D!
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Old 04-29-2014, 10:38 PM   #6
Tom S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashmaster View Post
... looking at a Lynx fairing possibly ...
I strongly recommend that you forget that.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:31 PM   #7
skierd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashmaster View Post
Same skierd as on the WR forum?
The one and only!
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Old 04-30-2014, 01:20 AM   #8
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Any of the aftermarket seat that are NOT worth trying?
I see seat concepts, and sargent have modelz for the WR.
Recommendations are welcome.
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:46 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom S View Post
I strongly recommend that you forget that.

Can you elaborate?
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Old 04-30-2014, 09:50 AM   #10
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Full Power View Post
Any of the aftermarket seat that are NOT worth trying?
I see seat concepts, and sargent have modelz for the WR.
Recommendations are welcome.
I bought a Seat Concepts but might not use it as the stock seat seems fine to me so far, as long as I'm on the pegs half the day. I might sell it so if you decide on one let me know.
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:47 AM   #11
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Same Same - Awesome Bike

Skierd pretty much covered it all. One thing I think I did different was upsizing to a 47 tooth sprocket in the rear. The end result is a small increase in top speed a huge increase in how fast you get there. It makes it easy to accidentally lift the front wheel at times, so be aware that you can't just pound the throttle anymore. One side effect is that the stock chain isn't long enough to accommodate. I decided to go with a master-link setup to try that out and have been happy so far.

The IMS 3 gallon tank is almost a must in Alaska. I ran the stock tank for a few seasons and it's a challenge. Like Skierd said, the 3 gallon plus another 2 gallons makes it to Deadhorse from Coldfoot.

As far as 87, I carry a bottle of octane boost with me. I have run 87 with no octane boost a number of times with no problems, but there were two times it pinged so bad it sounded like rocks in a blender. I don't enjoy using additives but when I'm out where the quality of gas is dubious it's nice to have. Two hours of listening to rocks in a blender is not fun.

Tires - I fell in love with the 606's on this thing and that's all I run now. I got about the same mileage as Skierd, 5k rear 3.5k front. It's a little strange for me to switch out two fronts to a rear, but that's how this one works.

A good way to save on 606's is to bring them up from the states yourself when flying down for a quick trip. I order my tires from one of the discount places in the states and have them delivered to the hotel a day or two before I arrive. Once I get there I duct tape 6 tires into two bundles of 3. Each bundle of 3 tires can be checked as a bag, and is free if you're a Alaska Air 49 club member and have no other luggage than a carry-on. Even if you have to pay $50 per bundle of 3 it comes out cheaper than buying tires in Alaska.

I don't worry about the lights very much. We have very long days here, and if a person does the majority of their riding in daylight I don't think anything more than stock is needed. There have been a few times I would have liked a little more illumination, but nothing that would justify more stuff to break and less cash for gas.

I still have the stock bars on mine. I'm waiting for a good reason to change them. I put barkbusters on, which really helps protect the hands from wind and branches. I prefer heated gloves to heated grips, but I haven't even bothered wiring the bike for them. A person can buy a whole lot of hot-hands for the cost of a heated jacket. . . . and then you get heated boots, heated gloves, heated jacket, heated pants, heated underwear, heated helmet. . . . you get the idea. Maybe someday I'll hook up my heated gear again but for now I enjoy the simplicity of ignoring it.

Now that this post is almost as long as the WR250 mega-thread, I think that sums it up.

Did you pick one up already? Shooting for Deadhorse? It's a fun and easy ride on the WR. I wasn't planning on going this year, but it doesn't take much more than an idea to change my mind if you want some company.
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Old 04-30-2014, 11:03 AM   #12
crashmaster
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Does the 606 front work any better on the WR than the MT-21? Been using the MT-21 on my 990 for years now and I have been very happy with it. About 5K miles out of it if I flip it around half way through its life. Of course it does lose some bite toward the end.

I also will wait until I bend the stock bars to get new ones, rise and pull-back is OK for now.

You running a 13 or 14 front sprocket? If 13, any issues with the chain slider? How long a chain do you need for running a 13-47 on the WRR, 112 I assume will work?

Down in america right now so I'll order up both tires from Rocky Mountain and bring them back up.

Haven't been to Deadhorse or Inuvik. Been to Ushuaia so I should probably go north for balance. I'm up for a run anytime you guys want to go. My buddies that own big bikes never ask me to go riding anymore.
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Old 04-30-2014, 12:04 PM   #13
skierd
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My next front tire is going to be an MT21, so I'll let you know. A 120/90-17 though, fat tires 4 lyfe. Sportbiketrackgear.com now carries dirt and dual sport tires, and has a flat $50 shipping rate for tires to AK, singles or pairs.

I had a stock seat for the first 30,000 miles and it was fine for about an hour, maybe 2-3 with an Alaskan leather sheepskin. The Seat concepts is good for about double that. No experience with the Sargent.

A 13T is stock, and just fine. The vast majority of slider issues come from running a dirty, kinked up, old chain and not from sprocket size. A 12T fits fine but wears quickly, a 14T requires trimming the case saver or replacing it with a steel saver from VW Sandman (i think he has a shop thread in the vendor forum). I'll never run a 14t again after seeing the gouges in my steel case saver from the chain though. A bigger rear sprocket with a 13T will prevent most slider issues.

FWIW, for any WRR inmates in AK I have a spare fuel pump sitting in my garage if anyone ever needs it immediately. All I ask is you replace it if you take it.
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"We wish your trail a long one" - Darlene "Sid" Dowd ~ Never run out of traction, ideas, and real estate at the same time.
2008 Yamaha WR250X
Eastern TAT 8/2009 ~MD-Key West-Oklahoma 4/2011~Maryland to Alaska 3/2012
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Old 04-30-2014, 04:04 PM   #14
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I haven't tried the MT-21 on the WR yet, but I used to switch between them and 606's on my KLR. For that situation I found them to be interchangeable. The difference is small enough that 606 over the MT-21 is just a matter of preference in my mind. I'm curious what you guys are going to come up with on the WR.

I'm using the stock 13 tooth sprocket up front. There is wear on the slider, but that's mostly due to the neglect of long trips with minimal maintenance and an occasionally improperly tensioned chain. I don't know if it's really even possible to avoid all slider wear.

As for the chain length, 112 sounds right but it may have been 114. I don't remember because of the method I used installing it. After I installed the sprocket I strung the chain through to see how long the tail was when I had the rear wheel sitting where I wanted. From there I broke the tail off and clipped it into one piece on the bike.

+1 on the sheepskin from AK Leather. Even without the sheepskin I put a ton of miles on the stock seat without trouble, but there's no mistaking the difference the sheepskin makes. That's as far as I can see myself going with the stock seat until it gets completely packed out. I've found that ass pain is very subjective though. A pain in the ass might be worth $100 for someone to get rid of, but another person may be willing to drop $300 to get rid of that same ass pain. IMHO, let your ass be the decider. Some cheeks need to be kissed and others don't mind a frisky slap here and there when it's in good fun.
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:49 PM   #15
RDJEff
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I saw a simple solution to the seat problem, it's called "Sweet Cheeks". It's a piece of fabric that sits over the seat, making the seat much wider by holding a 2 liter water bottle or even an MSR bottle on each side. You can adjust the volume of water/air to get just the right amount of cushion effect. I just ordered up a couple, and I'll let you know how they work.
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