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Old 04-05-2012, 04:37 PM   #91
HellSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump_co View Post
My factory manual also mentions a "gelb" spring. I have no fuggin idea what gelb means, but the way the chart is laid out it appears to be the same as the yellow.

http://translate.google.com/#de|en|gelb

You are spot on.

Earlier this week my German boss accidently copied her entire group on a personal message to a friend in German. I deleted, but the language translator sure makes it easy to read.
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:10 PM   #92
RideFreak
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Last ride was using the green spring with the Dolly in 2 threads. Running that setup with the knarly pipe on technical terrain I rarely hit the powerband, the green makes the hit come on pretty late which works pretty good for an old guy like me.

I don't think I got it on the pipe this entire video
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:18 PM   #93
DirtDad
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I have been running the green spring for over a year now. Works fine for me. It is hard to see some of the colors
on the springs. The red spring is the softest, and you can feel that it is softer then the Yellow spring when you compress them. The green spring is the stiffer of the three. But I am sure you guys already knew that.
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:24 PM   #94
HellSickle
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Originally Posted by DirtDad View Post
I have been running the green spring for over a year now. Works fine for me. It is hard to see some of the colors
on the springs. The red spring is the softest, and you can feel that it is softer then the Yellow spring when you compress them. The green spring is the stiffer of the three. But I am sure you guys already knew that.
I pulled the spring again & found the color. It was painted onto one of the ends. It was yellow, set about 3 turns in from flush. I backed it out to one turn from flush to get a bit of an earlier hit.

I rebuilt suspension last weekend. Tore down & checked the auto clutch last night. New piston just came in the mail today. Original life-time GPR damper was completely FUBAR, so they are upgrading me to a new style. The bike should be up and running next week so that I can check the new PV settings.
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Old 04-06-2012, 02:36 PM   #95
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
I pulled the spring again & found the color. It was painted onto one of the ends. It was yellow, set about 3 turns in from flush. I backed it out to one turn from flush to get a bit of an earlier hit.

I rebuilt suspension last weekend. Tore down & checked the auto clutch last night. New piston just came in the mail today. Original life-time GPR damper was completely FUBAR, so they are upgrading me to a new style. The bike should be up and running next week so that I can check the new PV settings.
It should be nice with the suspension, topend and new dampner! To give you an idea of that adjustment's effect, turning the dolly in three turns as opposed to the factorys 2 turns will push the system more towards the green spring. Backing it out should give you a little earlier of a hit. Let us know how it does.
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:34 PM   #96
HellSickle
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Another tuning tid-bit.

My rear fender has been getting really sloppy. Bouncing up and down. I finally pulled everything apart. The top sub-frame rails that fit into the pockets on the fender were really erroded. Dirt gets in the pocket. Vibration and bouncing grinds the aluminum away. I'll be covering those rails with shrink wrap and/or tape, after filling in the eroded sections with bondo.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:43 PM   #97
DirtDad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
Another tuning tid-bit.

My rear fender has been getting really sloppy. Bouncing up and down. I finally pulled everything apart. The top sub-frame rails that fit into the pockets on the fender were really erroded. Dirt gets in the pocket. Vibration and bouncing grinds the aluminum away. I'll be covering those rails with shrink wrap and/or tape, after filling in the eroded sections with bondo.
That is good to know. I will take a look at mine.

I installed my Gnarly pipe, and I figured it would not be a very huge improvement. Took the bike out today, and
wow! It was a rather significant improvement on the bottom, and mid-range. My front end was reaching for the
sky coming out of some tight sandy turns. It feels alot different too me. I am still running the green spring, but
it does not feel as mellow now. I think I will have to get a 48 tooth for the rear. Should help take away some of
the hit. Pretty much time to replace my chain and sprockets anyway.
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:45 PM   #98
250senuf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
Another tuning tid-bit.

I'll be covering those rails with shrink wrap and/or tape, after filling in the eroded sections with bondo.
Might JB Weld be better, more durable?
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:07 AM   #99
HellSickle
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Might JB Weld be better, more durable?
Maybe, but how would you get it to stay on the vertical surfaces while curing? In any event, I will be wrapping with tape .
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:13 PM   #100
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Maybe, but how would you get it to stay on the vertical surfaces while curing? In any event, I will be wrapping with tape .
JB Quick stays pretty stiff if you work it in cool weather. You can use some aluminum foil as a form.
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Old 04-12-2012, 01:34 PM   #101
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Thought I'd include the '09 manual page for folks future reference. Looots of combo options between the PV, exhaust and map switch.




Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Last ride was using the green spring with the Dolly in 2 threads. Running that setup with the knarly pipe on technical terrain I rarely hit the powerband, the green makes the hit come on pretty late which works pretty good for an old guy like me.

I don't think I got it on the pipe this entire video
Nice vid.. looks like fun trail. I'm still digging the yellow spring.. and had the chance to hit the pipe several times last week: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdIke_0iyVc&hd=1
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:19 PM   #102
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FWIW, I bought a switch from Sicass for my ignition map...it'd flip itself at random times from Off "hot" to On "mild" during rides. I got tired of dealing with it and just took it off and run the 'hot' curve at all times now.

Running the yellow spring & Gnarly headpipe with no complaints. Now I just need to find time to ride
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:38 PM   #103
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FWIW, I bought a switch from Sicass for my ignition map...it'd flip itself at random times from Off "hot" to On "mild" during rides.
Hmmm.. a "KTM/Bauer" brand map switch just arrived at my door from Slavens an hour ago.. hopefully I'll have better luck.. The switch action feels pretty stout at least.

I also think I have a clutch issue to address. I've had quite a few issues with tea-kettling the radiators when climbing steep/loose stuff and felt the clutch action was inconsistent. At first I thought it was traditional KTM hotness combined with rider error, but when doing battle with a climb last weekend I started noticing the clutch slipping as the bike gets hot. It also develops enough clutch drag that the bike can't idle and will die with the clutch pulled in unless I keep on the gas a bit. I'm going to try the oil+ATF mix suggestion that I see on ktmtalk first to see if maybe it's just a glazed plate. If that doesn't fix then I'm guessing I have some warped plates. Anyone else ever experience this?
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:54 PM   #104
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump_co View Post
Thought I'd include the '09 manual page for folks future reference. Looots of combo options between the PV, exhaust and map switch.






Nice vid.. looks like fun trail. I'm still digging the yellow spring.. and had the chance to hit the pipe several times last week: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdIke_0iyVc&hd=1
So how'd you like the 2T for that race? It looks like a great place to ride (I need to add it to the list ) Nice job on the vid too, not too jumpy and it gives ya a good feel for the riding out there, I felt like I was along for the ride.

Is that a GoPro cam? I have the same problem down here with riding into the sun, part of the scene is in a dark area (like that wash) and the bright sun is up above, it tends to overwelm the cam.

They sell these little polarizing filters that help diffuse the glare in those situations and don't hurt the picture when it's normal light. They don't fix it completly but help allot, $20 for 3 of them.
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:51 PM   #105
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So how'd you like the 2T for that race? It looks like a great place to ride (I need to add it to the list ) Nice job on the vid too, not too jumpy and it gives ya a good feel for the riding out there, I felt like I was along for the ride.
Thanks. The 2t was great for the tight washes.. Those parts were giddy fun (I sound like a dork going "wheeeee" through some of the highside and roost turns in Test 2).. but I was wishing for the longer wheelbase of the 450 through the many miles of whoops sections in between. We did quite a bit of playing on climbing the skinnies and bowls the day before. It gave me a chance to get the feel for long full on-the-pipe climbs. There where a number of the bigger ones that I had to abort when I stalled out 3/4 of the way up (a little sketchy) until I started to get the hang of it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Is that a GoPro cam? I have the same problem down here with riding into the sun, part of the scene is in a dark area (like that wash) and the bright sun is up above, it tends to overwelm the cam.

They sell these little polarizing filters that help diffuse the glare in those situations and don't hurt the picture when it's normal light. They don't fix it completly but help allot, $20 for 3 of them.
Yep.. it's a GoPro HD (not the newest GoPro2). I might have to give one of those filters a shot. I think part of the problem was the case being coated in think dust. Didn't matter how many times you wiped it, it was covered again a second later.

Air filter after race:

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