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Old 03-09-2012, 08:27 AM   #1
skrub OP
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Suzuki TS90 runs again .....almost

Been working on this old TS90 and it finally starts. The carb was all gunked up so I got it all cleaned out, replaced the float and needle. Last night the little girl fired up for me. It starts but dies. Heres my question 1: what ajusts the idle ? theres a screw where the cables enter case cover. 2: theres a jet at the bell mouth I think would be a mixture adjustment. 3: How can I check to make sure the carb is getting injection oil ? and adjusting the float, the needle has a spring tip on the end. Is the float level with that compressed or not ? Thanks for any help. http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/g...dwelder003.jpg http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/g...dwelder003.jpg
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:18 PM   #2
Shocktower
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My first 2 stroke Ok you need to make sure the pilot jet is clean that bugger causes lots of problems, looks like the carb is clean ( I looked at the picture ) Yes the screw is the idle screw IIRC, the way to check your oil is see if the lines are clean (oil runs out of them ) I will look up the TS carb to see which screw is the mixture
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:27 PM   #3
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Yes the screw in the Bell intake is the air adjuster screw, the one on the right hand side
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:39 AM   #4
skrub OP
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The oil isn't a gravity feed ? Is there some kind of pump ? The idle screw. Clockwise or counter clockwise increases idle speed ? Thanks for the help Shocktower
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:43 AM   #5
slideways
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skrub View Post
The oil isn't a gravity feed ? Is there some kind of pump ? The idle screw. Clockwise or counter clockwise increases idle speed ? Thanks for the help Shocktower
There is an oil injection pump. It has a bleed screw on it to purge any air in the oil line out. Also if it has the stock exhaust on it pull the baffle out and clean it, they were very bad to gunk up especially around the spark arrestor. I used to take a hacksaw and cut the arrestor part off the baffle and the bike ran much better. Also put a new air filter in it.
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:46 AM   #6
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Thanks Slideways I'll check that baffle and try to find the bleeder. I found the biggest problem is the gas still is not getting in the bowl. Gas is in the line but not filling the carb. Inlet is clear, vents are clear the float and needle are free.
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:27 AM   #7
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If it isn't getting fuel in the carb, does it possibly have a vacuum operated petcock? If it does, there's probably a "prime" position that lets fuel through without the engine running. The vacuum operated petcocks will have two lines going to the carb...one for fuel, the other for the vacuum connection.

On the oil pump operation..... a manual I have for older Kawasaki 2-strokes, has a procedure to disconnect the oil line at the carb and run the bike on pre-mix for a set period of time, measuring the output of the pump. I'd say if you get it running just look for a bit of smoke in the exhaust, but that is certainly less than scientific, especially with "low smoke" oils.

The air adjustment screw at the carb's inlet would make the mixture richer if you screw it "in", cutting the airflow(clockwise), and leaner if backed "out" increasing the airflow (counter clockwise).

Idle speed....there should be a screw that limits how far down the slide will go when the throttle is released. It's usually a rather blunt tapered screw that touches a tapered area of the slide. There may be carbs with other idle adjustment methods, but that's what has been on my small bikes.

I hope this helps and apologize if I'm being too "basic"

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Old 03-13-2012, 11:05 AM   #8
slideways
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lake_harley View Post

On the oil pump operation..... a manual I have for older Kawasaki 2-strokes, has a procedure to disconnect the oil line at the carb and run the bike on pre-mix for a set period of time, measuring the output of the pump. I'd say if you get it running just look for a bit of smoke in the exhaust, but that is certainly less than scientific, especially with "low smoke" oils.


Lynn
This will not work on a Suzuki which has CCI(crankcase cylinder injection). You can seize the motor.

The bleed screw is the larger philips screw between the where the 2 oil lines screw in with a gasket under it . When you back this screw out you should get some oil coming out and if the oil line is clear and there is an air bubble in the line you will see it move down the line .

There is also an index mark on the arm that the injection pump cable hooks to and an index mark on the pump body these marks should line up when the throttle is held wide open. If you can get a service manual it can help . I am just going from memory.

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Old 03-13-2012, 05:08 PM   #9
skrub OP
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I had the petcock torn down and replaced the seal, its just a off, main, reserve valve. I checked all the line and vents in the carb there all clear but not a drop gets in the bowl. I orderd a new needle and seat will see what happens with that. Ebay has a reprint of a factory shop manual Im going to buy. The oil line is brown, old and brittle. I'm bettin the hole injector is all guncked up. So it looks like every time ya twist the throttle it gets a dose of oil . Thanks for all the info guys.
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slideways View Post
This will not work on a Suzuki which has CCI(crankcase cylinder injection). You can seize the motor.
I'm glad you posted this. I didn't realize that difference from Kawasaki to Suzuki, and wouldn't have wanted to be the one responsible for trashing someone's engine! On the Kawasaki (my F7 175 anyway) the oil is injected into the air/fuel stream right after the carb. Is the oil, or part of it, injected into the mains on the Suzuki?

Thanks, slideways, for correcting and educating me (us).

Lynn
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Old 03-15-2012, 07:48 AM   #11
slideways
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lake_harley View Post
I'm glad you posted this. I didn't realize that difference from Kawasaki to Suzuki, and wouldn't have wanted to be the one responsible for trashing someone's engine! On the Kawasaki (my F7 175 anyway) the oil is injected into the air/fuel stream right after the carb. Is the oil, or part of it, injected into the mains on the Suzuki?

Thanks, slideways, for correcting and educating me (us).

Lynn
Everybody took a different approach to oil injection back then.

This is how Suzuki did it on the TS/TC 90's. If you disconnected the oil pump and just mixed the fuel the bottom end would starve for oil.

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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160841

South Africa, Swaziland, Botswana ride report
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=454490

Great CanAm Tour
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=476605
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:05 PM   #12
skrub OP
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AH HAAA a picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks Slideways now I see whats gonig on. I had the idea the other line to the carb was for oil, its not. For all I can tell the injection system may be fine. Thanks that a huge help.
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Old 04-24-2012, 06:34 PM   #13
skrub OP
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So I got a manual on ebay. That helped get everything set up. It started but only fired about three times and stoped. Did this over and over till I put may hand over the carb and then it ran pretty good. Hmmmm Why would it run better with with carb almost completely blocked. Must be getting a lot of air from some place else. Seems like more than bad crank seals could pass. Maybe a really bad base gasket. Any ideas out there ?
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:29 PM   #14
willis 2000
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Are you getting fuel in the float bowl yet? It's gravity dependent, pretty simple.
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Old 04-25-2012, 05:58 AM   #15
skrub OP
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Yep. Pulled the gas line, fuel runs fine. Got the float set per the manual. I was thinking in that direction, maybe it wasnt get fuel and cutting off the air would balance the mixture for it to run. When its running and the carbs blocked off you can twist the throttle and it revs like its supposed to. So that should say its getting fuel. Gotta love a challenge.
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