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Old 05-01-2015, 06:10 AM   #1
poondangle OP
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'74 H1E...The saga

Well, here it begins. I'll post up my experiences as they happen with my new to me 1974 H1E. My granddad bought this bike brand new in April of 1974 down in Salisbury, NC. My cousing had it for a brief period of time, then it went to my dad in 1992, after granddad passed. The bike went from GA all the way with him to Calgary, where he now resides. I got it from him about 6 weeks ago, and its been in transit ever since.

Challenge #1 was to get the bike out of Canada and back to me in VA. The cheapest shipping quote I had was $1500 ....Well, that was steeper than I expected.

Anyway, we were able to get the bike to LA. From there, I had http://www.haulbikes.com/ ship the bike from LA to VA. Cost me right at $500 if you're curious. They were pretty easy to deal with, minimal hassel. They provide door to door shipment. My dad dropped the bike with Long Beach BMW about a month ago. Those guys were super accommodating, and I can not say enough good things about them. If you're in LA, go buy something from them!!

Anyway, the bike got picked up 3 weeks ago, and arrived at my office this morning. The truck was nice, and driver as real professional. My bike was an upper decker



Here she is, just a tick over 10K on the ODO. Needs some cosmetic work, I'll try to start it next week, after I've had a chance to change the fluids, plugs, etc.



Here's my grandad's original warranty card, along with the original owners manual and warranty book. I also have his original sales receipt.




Hopefully, as my experience with the bike goes, I'll keep this thread up to date. I'm open to any and all info and tribal knowledge about the bike, as I don't know too much about it. (Its 7 months older than me) I'll take it home, put new synthetic 2 stroke oil in the tank, and a synthetic oil in the transmission. First question for the group, should I use a heavy (80W) gear oil, or should I put 10w-40 car oil in it? Like I said, I'm a bit ignorant on this machine.

I'll hopefully get it running this summer, enjoy it a bit around town, then tear it down over the winter. It needs cosmetic work for sure.
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Old 05-01-2015, 02:47 PM   #2
Foot dragger
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A service manual from Haines would save a whole bunch of guessing and question asking. It looks pretty clean as is though!
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Old 05-01-2015, 03:10 PM   #3
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Before you do anything ,pull the plugs and squirt a little oil in each cylinder and let it sit a couple hours just in case theres a little corrosion sticking the rings to the cyl walls. Then turn it over slowly and listen for any odd noise or sticking of the pistons in the bores.It looks clean and well kept but how long has it been since it ran. Add a little premix in the tank when you first start it incase the oil pump doesn't work at first then watch the oil line to see if oil is moving.Use 2 stroke oil intended for injection systems and motor cycle specific oil in the trans because it lubes the wet clutch also.The clutch may be stuck so try putting it in 4th or 5th ,pull in the clutch and try to push it to break it loose. If you try revving it and putting it in gear before breaking it loose you'll either stall it or land on your ass.
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Old 05-01-2015, 03:32 PM   #4
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It's been a few years since its run. My plan is to pull the plugs put some oil on top. Then pull the carbs and clean them. It needs new fuel lines, they're rotted. The clutch is good-ish, at least it feels that way. The front brake is stuck, open. So I'll pull the caliper, free it up, new fluid and bleed. Then I'll put gear oil in and semi-synthetic 2 stroke. It's in pretty good shape at first glance. I hope that means the internals are good.

Been reading a bunch over on the Kawasaki 2 stroke forum. So I know I have a bunch of work ahead of me. I don't want a museum piece, but since it's so original, I want to get it back to a good facsimile of a stock bike, that I can ride around town
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Old 05-01-2015, 03:34 PM   #5
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I'm going to document the whole experience here. The good, the bad, and the ugly. Please subscribe. I want the forums input, but most of all, stop by for a good laugh at my expense.
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Old 05-01-2015, 04:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
A service manual from Haines would save a whole bunch of guessing and question asking. It looks pretty clean as is though!
I've got the shop manual off of the 2 stroke message board. It's about as comprehensive as I could ask for.
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Old 05-01-2015, 05:30 PM   #7
vtwin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poondangle View Post
Then I'll put gear oil in and semi-synthetic 2 stroke. It's in pretty good shape at first glance. I hope that means the internals
I hope you mean motorcycle engine oil. Good on you for just cleaning it up and riding it. It's only original once.
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Old 05-01-2015, 05:37 PM   #8
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t looks in nice fettle as it is just sat there, if it were me i would be thinking long and hard before i did much cosmetic restoration.
think i would clean everything up i possibly could be prepared to put up with any minor blemishes.
Its a beautiful bike as it is.
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Old 05-01-2015, 07:08 PM   #9
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I hope you mean motorcycle engine oil. Good on you for just cleaning it up and riding it. It's only original once.
No, I mean gear oil. 85w gear oil is about the same viscosity as 30w or 40w engine oil. The bike originally spec'd 30w oil. So a Dino based GL-5 rated gear oil at 85w is the closest thing in a modern equivalent. And it's still infinitely better than anything that was ever put in it back in 1974
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Old 05-01-2015, 07:16 PM   #10
baloneyskin daddy
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I drag raced H2s for years and always ran F-type automatic trans fluid,made the clutch bite a lot better.
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Old 05-02-2015, 06:54 PM   #11
vtwin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poondangle View Post
No, I mean gear oil. 85w gear oil is about the same viscosity as 30w or 40w engine oil. The bike originally spec'd 30w oil. So a Dino based GL-5 rated gear oil at 85w is the closest thing in a modern equivalent. And it's still infinitely better than anything that was ever put in it back in 1974

Yes, you are right, the viscosity is similar. My Willys truck calls for 85-90w gear oil, but 40wt is an equivalent, but it doesn't contact the clutch. How will the gear oil react with the friction material? Also, shouldn't you be getting GL4 instead of the GL5?
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Old 05-02-2015, 08:46 PM   #12
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There's some great triple resources like:
http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/

http://www.kawi2strokes.com/forum/

http://triplescanada.proboards.com/

You can prime the oil pump and make sure it's working (bleed air bubbles out) easily. I'd do a leak down test minimum as bad crank seal will make for some expensive repairs.

My H1 makes me smile every time I ride it, something about the cadence of a triple.
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Old 05-02-2015, 09:44 PM   #13
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That looks pretty good for a 40 year old bike. If the paint etc. is in half way decent condition I would just clean it up. Original condition bikes bikes are typically work more than one restored, only "original" once......

Even if the engine runs that doesn't necessarily mean it's safe to do so. Crank seals go bad, air leaks develop. Have someone who knows what their doing pressure test the engine.

Also remember these bikes were designed to run on 100 octane leaded gas. Extended freeway runs on current fuels can cause serious detonation issues.

eBay is good source for replacement OEM parts at usually reasonable prices.

Really cool bike! Good luck!
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Old 05-03-2015, 03:33 AM   #14
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Value isn't really a consideration for me. It's more a preservation thing. The bike isn't going anywhere. It's got a bunch of surface rust and pitting, especially on the chrome. So that needs to be addressed before it gets out of hand.
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Old 05-04-2015, 06:06 AM   #15
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