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Old 03-13-2012, 08:18 AM   #16
Alleycatdad
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This makes sense to me as well. If you're doubling the flow across the sensor you may well be fooling the ecu into supplying more gas.

S
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:57 AM   #17
bikyto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
Diek, I think, as others have noted, that part of your problem is the hose connecting the two throttle bodies. Remove it and the fittings and block the holes with short M6 bolts and blue loctite.
I have the hose connected as pictured and do not experience what is being described by a few of you guys.
But, Diek, it's worth a try.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:22 AM   #18
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I've heard of many inmates doing this "S" hose, in fact I was following what I THOUGHT was the popular/official procedure. If that's all it is, GREAT! I'll put some bolts in and reassemble. Ya, I can see the thinking: Air/vapor is allowed to share/mix AFTER the TBs with the "S" hose, which is detrimental. BUT when I origionally read about it I could see the other side: The fuel mix is already established once it reaches the intakes (and should be the same for each intake), and can now "equalize." (I'm just making this up, trying to understand!)

Yes, initially in the write up in the HOW has bolts installed (by Katoom119), but then at the very bottom he edited it and went with the "S" hose, which I saw this discussed at length in another thread too. Maybe we need to correct that?

Here's the quote:

EDIT: After riding with mine as I'd done it above for about 500 miles I was having issues with the bike surging between exactly 3000-4000 RPMs. After much discussion and debate I pulled the bike back apart and instead of putting the bolts into the intakes I simply took some hose and the little pipe clamps leftover from the canisterectomy and connected the two sides using the stock brass pieces. Dusty and I both had this problem and it fixed it both times. Apparently you cannot use the same techniques as the 950 in this regard.

All the thoughts and tips for TuneECU are great, keep 'em coming.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:57 AM   #19
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Yeah I think it's 6 one way, 1/2 dozen the other. I still have the S-hose in mine and after Wheeler got done with it I got 42 mpg at a constant 60 mph. The S-hose helped mine 90% but it still comes down to the mapping.

I'm wondering if you have a MAP sensor that's going bad. Do these throw fault codes? Even if you turn the O2 sensors off the ECU still has to have some kind of way to monitor the A/F ratio. I would assume that this would be done by the MAP sensor. If one is bad and registering too much air, dumping in too much fuel, then there's your problem.

The Akra map does have way too much fuel. I tried all three maps; the Akra, Euro, and US. I couldn't tell a difference in any of them.

If TuneECU can convert a Tuneboy file, I can call Wheeler and see if he'll email me my map. I can shoot it to you, load it into your bike, and see what happens. Your bike, best I can tell, is set up just like mine.




EDIT: What did you do with the vacuum pump under the glove box when you did the SAS removal? Did you pull this out completely?
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:17 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katoom119 View Post
Yeah I think it's 6 one way, 1/2 dozen the other. I still have the S-hose in mine and after Wheeler got done with it I got 42 mpg at a constant 60 mph. The S-hose helped mine 90% but it still comes down to the mapping.

I'm wondering if you have a MAP sensor that's going bad. Do these throw fault codes? Even if you turn the O2 sensors off the ECU still has to have some kind of way to monitor the A/F ratio. I would assume that this would be done by the MAP sensor. If one is bad and registering too much air, dumping in too much fuel, then there's your problem.

The Akra map does have way too much fuel. I tried all three maps; the Akra, Euro, and US. I couldn't tell a difference in any of them.

If TuneECU can convert a Tuneboy file, I can call Wheeler and see if he'll email me my map. I can shoot it to you, load it into your bike, and see what happens. Your bike, best I can tell, is set up just like mine.




EDIT: What did you do with the vacuum pump under the glove box when you did the SAS removal? Did you pull this out completely?

The pump module under glove box removed, 22k ohm resistor plug constructed in it's place as per instructions. I get no FI error lights/codes.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:51 AM   #21
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V, i was looking at your pics and saw a lot of something wet on your tank, i run my front vents up high into the fairing then down to the skidplate or the end of the fairings. Just thinking out loud.. fill tanks and pulls a bit of gas out the front vents, poor MPGs.
edit; found a pic


As to the s hose i have been running mine this way for 4 years now, it was the common to plug them on the 950s.

Post a screenshot of the sensor page on tuneECU after a warm up, it might help diagnose any issues.

As to the hunting... So easy to do in TuneECU
1. try dissableing the 02s..... test ride
2. open the secondary flies 100%... test ride
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:24 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
Diek, I think, as others have noted, that part of your problem is the hose connecting the two throttle bodies. Remove it and the fittings and block the holes with short M6 bolts and blue loctite.
Now I'm not sure what I said is correct because all the S hose does is to re-create the connection from the right side of the rear throttle body to the left side of the front throttle body which is present when the canister is connected as shown in:



The connection between the two throttle bodies is made by the tube on the left of the T and the tube in the center of the T (the tube on the right of the T goes up to the canister pump) and is open whether or not the canister pump is running or closed. So the S hose just re-creates that path which the canister setup had.
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:29 PM   #23
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You said you verified that the S tube was open. Did you check to see if it had a leak?
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:46 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
Now I'm not sure what I said is correct because all the S hose does is to re-create the connection from the right side of the rear throttle body to the left side of the front throttle body which is present when the canister is connected as shown in:



The connection between the two throttle bodies is made by the tube on the left of the T and the tube in the center of the T (the tube on the right of the T goes up to the canister pump) and is open whether or not the canister pump is running or closed. So the S hose just re-creates that path which the canister setup had.
That makes sense:)
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:24 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Sumi View Post
That makes sense:)
I am doing this right now, I just used the "T" and capped off the line to the canister instead of routing an "s" hose.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:43 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by pdxthmper View Post
I am doing this right now, I just used the "T" and capped off the line to the canister instead of routing an "s" hose.
It might be just my bad english that I'm using words that doesn't mean what I think they do:)) sorry.

So I've ment something like: ahaaa, if that's the stock setup, then this couldn't be the problem:)
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:24 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumi View Post
It might be just my bad english that I'm using words that doesn't mean what I think they do:)) sorry.

So I've ment something like: ahaaa, if that's the stock setup, then this couldn't be the problem:)
The way you said it the first time was excellent English Sumi.
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:27 PM   #28
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I got two words for you - carburetors.
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:29 PM   #29
Katoom119
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I got two words for you - carburetors.
Nah. It can be fixed. Before he goes to carbs I'll drive down to Texas myself, pick up the bike, and haul it over here to Wheeler to let him work his magic.


What can I say? Band geeks have to stick together.
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:34 PM   #30
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Nah. It can be fixed. Before he goes to carbs I'll drive down to Texas myself, pick up the bike, and haul it over here to Wheeler to let him work his magic.


What can I say? Band geeks have to stick together.

I hear ya. We've about decided that if we're going to fool with injetion we're going to have to put our own system together to make it work the way we want it to. Mileage will not be a result.
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