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Old 02-16-2013, 03:53 AM   #361
team ftb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrustyKustom View Post
I just came off a great relationship with my 07 RFS 450exc to a 500 this past October. Having ridden the 08-11 generation with my buddies bikes the 500 is a different animal. While the chassis of the previous generation was great the new one is even better which you can only tell riding them back to back. The new 500 feels lighter and to me the same ergos as my 07 in the tank, seat to pegs etc.

Something interesting is how much lower the center of gravity is on the 500 than a 530. Sitting side by side it looks 1.5" lower under the skidplate, the swingarm looks to go in a bit higher on the frame than a 530 also. I have drug bottom twice creeping over an obsticle that my 450 would have cleared on the 500, but generally this is just an observation not a biggie.

The thing that got me on the new bike is the motor. Sweeeeet! Smooth and controllable, one sump system with more oil capacity than ever on a under 600 cc KTM. Bike gets super mileage, build quality of the engine is awesome, new die cast case is high quality.

I weigh 172 and the suspension is perfect for me.My buddies 530 is super firm and it is stock. Power hit on the 500 is there just more easy to "meter", 530 seems to have more low end grunt but comes on with more authority. If I had a 530 i would want a throttle cam.

I put a Scotts on my 500 and it is rock stable, wide open in sand or on the pavement. No head shake.

Give one a ride if you can
Thanks for the info Krusty!!

Believe it or not I have the 500 already in my garage back in California, only issue is I'm in Thailand until next week and have yet to ride one. I took a quick ride today on a 2013 KTM 350 thinking I might trade for one of those as I want light weight. However the 350 while really sweet just felt a lot larger, heavier steering, as well as a bit porky compared to my 250 XCFW. It felt more like a small 450 rather than a big bore 250. So if its gonna feel a bit porky I might as well have a large piston pushing it around and keep the 500.

Crankshaft - Yes the new bikes have us definitely perched on top rather than in, just hope my 5'6" can handle the height on the newer frames.

Thanks guys.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:21 AM   #362
HickOnACrick
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I just checked my valves; the first check, and my intake valves are tight. With the rocker arms on the 500, I can't easily see how to adjust the clearances. Any insight?
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:59 AM   #363
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Originally Posted by HickOnACrick View Post
I just checked my valves; the first check, and my intake valves are tight. With the rocker arms on the 500, I can't easily see how to adjust the clearances. Any insight?
Ok, I guess I need to order new shims...this makes valve adjustments on the road nearly impossible.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:52 PM   #364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HickOnACrick View Post
Ok, I guess I need to order new shims...this makes valve adjustments on the road nearly impossible.
Hardly, it is trivial. Once you know what you have in the bike just grab 8 shims, one smaller and one bigger for each valve, plus a couple of feeler guages. Doing the valves is just 30 minutes of your time. These things take up so little space you could just tape them into your airbox someplace. I doubt you'd need to adjust them on a trip unless it was over a 5000 mile trip or the motor was pretty worn up top.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:04 PM   #365
team ftb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddler View Post
....... I doubt you'd need to adjust them on a trip unless it was over a 5000 mile trip or the motor was pretty worn up top.

This is what I was betting on. I came from a 525 with SS valves and even a month long trip they never moved. I was nervous about the shim design for the same reason Hick fears. However the valve train on these bikes seem to go out of adjustment infrequently once you've broken the bike in and done any needed adjustments.
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:13 AM   #366
HickOnACrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team ftb View Post
This is what I was betting on. I came from a 525 with SS valves and even a month long trip they never moved. I was nervous about the shim design for the same reason Hick fears. However the valve train on these bikes seem to go out of adjustment infrequently once you've broken the bike in and done any needed adjustments.
I ordered up a kit of shims. I'll check the clearances once more before the trip, and take along a variety of extras.

The intake clearances were 0.08, but the exhausts were spot-on. My mechanic was quite surprised they were off. He says he has only seen them go out of sync after 40-60 hours of hard riding. I have about 15 hours of break-in riding is all (injuries have kept me off the bike).
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Old 02-24-2013, 12:23 AM   #367
David_Moen
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Shout out to anyone running the HDB sub mount for a Scott's damper. The mount is in two pieces, that slide. How is this adjustment supposed to be made? I thought I would tighten the screws that hold the top part so that they slide with a bit of resistance, then swing the wheel through full travel side to side, then lock it down.

No instructions were provided, and Paul, who is usually pretty prompt with replies on questions hasn't got back to me yet. I want to button this up tomorrow as I can't see me getting back into the garage for another couple of weeks :(

Also, is there anywhere on the electrics behind the headlight that makes a good power source for grip heaters or should I run a lead right back to the battery/fuse block?

Thanks for your time!
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:50 AM   #368
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David: the sub-mount location doesn't really matter - the adjust-ability is for personal preference (as well as a bit of extra movement for variation in post mounting positions). I like mine tucked up in where it is out of the way.. but then out a bit so I can reach the dial more easily.

Don't leave the screws loose - choose your location and snug them down.

Geek screwed with this post 02-24-2013 at 08:59 AM
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:00 AM   #369
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Thanks! Back to the garage! I'm starting to think I should have ordered the computer protector as well. With risers on, there is no way I'm seeing the computer or idiot lights in their stock location unless I'm standing on the pegs.
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:52 AM   #370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
David: the sub-mount location doesn't really matter - the adjust-ability is for personal preference (as well as a bit of extra movement for variation in post mounting positions). I like mine tucked up in where it is out of the way.. but then out a bit so I can reach the dial more easily.

Don't leave the screws loose - choose your location and snug them down.
No, that setting is actually very important to make the damper work correctly and not start leaking eventually!

The adjust-ability has nothing to do with personal preferences, it is for compensating the different position of the handlebar mounting holes, depending on which triples are used, with what offset etc. The frame mounted post is usually 35mm away from the stem if I remember correctly, so that has nothing to do with it either.

You want the damper arm axis exactly in line with the steering stem axis. For this you line up the two damper mounting holes in the HDB sliding piece so that a connecting line would cross the center of the steering stem (if you put the top nut on and run a rod across the holes it will be easy to see), then tighten it in position and mount the damper.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:39 AM   #371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
No, that setting is actually very important to make the damper work correctly and not start leaking eventually!

The adjust-ability has nothing to do with personal preferences, it is for compensating the different position of the handlebar mounting holes, depending on which triples are used, with what offset etc. The frame mounted post is usually 35mm away from the stem if I remember correctly, so that has nothing to do with it either.

You want the damper arm axis exactly in line with the steering stem axis. For this you line up the two damper mounting holes in the HDB sliding piece so that a connecting line would cross the center of the steering stem (if you put the top nut on and run a rod across the holes it will be easy to see), then tighten it in position and mount the damper.
I'm pretty sure
not being centered over the spindle would also make the damper progressive, which could be bad.

Hi Lucas
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:47 AM   #372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
I'm pretty sure
not being centered over the spindle would also make the damper progressive, which could be bad.

Hi Lucas
Hi Aaron!


Yes, the proper alignment is important to get a linear damping curve and to avoid too much bending moment on the shaft, which will eventually lead to seal failures.

I think Scotts used to specify a max of 1 or 2mm misalignment in their instructions.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:21 AM   #373
David_Moen
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Thanks!

Just after I checked this thread for answers to my question, Paul e-mailed me with the same info, the damper pivot should be in line with the centre of the steering neck bearing.

Now that I have the top clamp mounted up though, I can see that it completely shields the computer and idiot lights from view in the stock position. Another call to Paul is in order for one of his computer mount/protectors is in order. Any comments how his fits with the headlight mask though? Seems like there is very little room to move the computer cluster up unless it sits completely above the mask.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
No, that setting is actually very important to make the damper work correctly and not start leaking eventually!

The adjust-ability has nothing to do with personal preferences, it is for compensating the different position of the handlebar mounting holes, depending on which triples are used, with what offset etc. The frame mounted post is usually 35mm away from the stem if I remember correctly, so that has nothing to do with it either.

You want the damper arm axis exactly in line with the steering stem axis. For this you line up the two damper mounting holes in the HDB sliding piece so that a connecting line would cross the center of the steering stem (if you put the top nut on and run a rod across the holes it will be easy to see), then tighten it in position and mount the damper.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:38 AM   #374
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Thanks Lukas... I did not know that! I'll make sure mine is in alignment.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:16 PM   #375
bmgyver
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I wired my grip heaters into the fan power source.
This way when I turn off the key (exc) the grip heaters turn off so I can't accidently leave them on. Also if its cold enough to use grip heaters you probably won't be needing the fan on. I was able to get the molex plug parts at frys and make a WYE pigtail so it plugged into the stock harness.
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