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Old 03-26-2012, 07:39 AM   #31
Geek OP
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Here is how the top clamp bolts to the billet computer protector






....then let the wiring begin....

First you need to have a plan



...because the idea was to "do things right" - using color coordinated wires for each function


Shrink wrap each connection...


then re-enforce wrap where there is a possible friction point


...and then sleeve the wires and shrink one more layer over top


which means it is now ready to mount on the bike




Leaving us with this nice color coded pigtail to work with
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:50 AM   #32
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Next we need to run a power source from the battery at the back of the bike...

First we fish a conduit sleeve to the back and run a red & black wire in it.. shrink wrapping the end.



We want to have this power source fused in case of a short.
Fish the two wires through a fuse holder and solder/crimp the connectors



Lock them into the waterproof housing


insert fuse...


put the cap on and mount


Now we are ready to put the two shrink wrapped eyelets on the battery


...to be continued... it'll all start to come together!


...but first I'm going to have to rewire how the thermostat works

KTM wiring =



...to be continued...
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:02 AM   #33
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Still to come.. the horn, etc...








So have no XCW owners tried the fuel map switch yet?

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Old 03-26-2012, 08:06 AM   #34
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OUTSTANDING!

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Old 03-26-2012, 08:17 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtoc View Post
for the seat i've swapped the stocker for the enduro engineering tall soft seat. i'm only 5'11" so the tall seems like a bad idea but in reality it sinks pretty well when you sit on it and it is very comfy. this seat also holds me in position very well as it molds around your butt (which is great as long as you start off in the right position!) EE makes a normal height soft seat but it is a different animal and not nearly as soft.
Have any pics of it?
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:27 AM   #36
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Just saw this thread. Nicely done Geek.

I'm up around 35 hours on my street legal 500xc-w and 825 miles.

I too have all the awesome HDB stuff, but instead use most of the stock electrics. I put in an earthX Lithium battery. Made here in CO. I'll be putting one in my 950 too. Great product. Cranks well in the 20's, good enough for me.

I have the ignition map switch and basically keep it on the "mild" setting for two reasons. The bike has so much power and I find it easier to control corner exits in the "mild" mode and I can get 80 miles per tank.

If I am not concerned with range I'll bump up the setting. The bike just plain rips and feels very light. At times it could use an opera singer attached to the front wheel to help with steering.

I rode a 350xc-w over the weekend and it is a much better singletrack bike and I felt I could ride it faster on desert singletrack, but it would not cut it for long technical dualsport rides for me. The 500 will easily do long distance dualsport rides in comfort.

[This is for you Larry] Comparing the 500 to the te610 in terms of gearing. For technical riding I gear my 610 14/48. The 610 can chug down low much better but is no match for the 500 in the faster stuff and in regards to suspension. It isn't even a valid comparison. The 500 will allow such bigger hits without getting all wonky on you. Plus, the adjustment can give you plush in rocks and stability in big sand whoops. The 610 is just survival mode if you push it, the 500's limits are so far out their I will never see them. The 500 could use a lower gear for very technical stuff, but the clutch is good so you just abuse it. The 610 is less tiring than the 500, unless it is slow technical riding or fast with big hits, then the 500 all the way. The 500 has a higher top speed with its stock gearing, even in mild mode.

I ran out of gas again this past weekend. I've run the tank dry on this bike around 7 times now. I'm dying for the bigger tank and then I can replace my 610 if I can get 150 miles out of this thing. Some folks say it is bad to run FI dry but I've done it so many times and I have not seen any issues. YET

I'll be watching this thread. Keep it up Geek.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:55 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddler View Post
[This is for you Larry] Comparing the 500 to the te610 in terms of gearing. For technical riding I gear my 610 14/48. The 610 can chug down low much better but is no match for the 500 in the faster stuff and in regards to suspension. It isn't even a valid comparison. The 500 will allow such bigger hits without getting all wonky on you. Plus, the adjustment can give you plush in rocks and stability in big sand whoops. The 610 is just survival mode if you push it, the 500's limits are so far out their I will never see them. The 500 could use a lower gear for very technical stuff, but the clutch is good so you just abuse it. The 610 is less tiring than the 500, unless it is slow technical riding or fast with big hits, then the 500 all the way. The 500 has a higher top speed with its stock gearing, even in mild mode.

I'll be watching this thread. Keep it up Geek.

I always ran 14/45 on my 610 because of the super low first and it'd top out at 102 mph loaded.

I can see how more power and less weight can hide a taller first gear, like the XR650R's that I've owned.

Thanks for the info!!

Bike is looking awesome, Geek!!!

Hey Geek, to save yourself some trouble after many miles...cut a little chunk of vacuum tube, drop it into the cap for the fuse so that pressure is applied to the fuse when you snap the cap on.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:44 PM   #38
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This is going to be another epic Geek build thread!

A couple of questions and comments...

Question:
  • Where did you get the soft plastic insulated bullet connectors? I haven't found any local sources. I know Eastern Beaver sells them... I guess I should just order a set. Same question with fuse holder. You can get waterproof ones locally, but not as nice as the one you are using.

  • Did you figure out what your stock spring rate is and decide what spring you are going to go with?

Comments:
  • Super clean job on the electrical wiring! If you are not using it already, try some of the epoxy lined shrink tubing. Great stuff, especially for exposed connections like on a bike. JB Saunders has it, and surprisingly, Harbor Freight also has an assorted size box that is super cheap when it is on sale (which is often).

  • A couple of things I didn't see on your "to-do" list. You probably are planning on them anyway... Scotts stabilizer (definitely!) and a bigger tank (definitely for the rides you like to take!)

  • I really like having a remote switch near my left hand for the 'mode' function of the stock KTM computer. The up/down trip odo buttons aren't all that useful unless you are doing a roadbook ride or some sort of enduro event, but being able to switch between the KTM computer modes easily is pretty nice. I'm probably in the minority, but I really like the stock KTM computer and even prefer it to the trailtech models. It's that unused four wire connector coming off the bottom of the computer. Colors seem to change every so often, but on many the below scheme is correct. Good luck finding a mating connector though unless you buy the tripmaster switch from KTM ($63 bucks list price!) I chop mine off and use a molex connector.
    green = ground
    yellow = mode/O
    blue = up/+
    brown = down/-

  • If you get the bike set up right, I don't think you need a fan override. Plus that circuit is always hot, though I guess the 500's now have a timed relay that kills all accessory power after something like 15 minutes?

  • I've run metal skidplates on all my previous dirt bikes, but I've heard good things about the KTM heavy plastic ones. There are pretty beefy frame rails underneath that will protect the bike (and the plate) against big hits, so it's mostly to deflect and distribute the impact of small and medium size rocks. Less weight, less noise, I'm going to try the one that came stock on my Six Days this season and see how it does.

  • This is what I understand about the mapping switch... Before you can adjust the mapping, you need to make sure the 'competition' map is loaded into the ECU. Then you have three mapping choices, one of which is the default map that you currently have. Being able to flatten out (detune) the power on the bike would probably be nice for technical riding. So really the questions are 1) how can you verify what ECU map is loaded into your computer, 2) verify that the competition map can be loaded if it is not, and 3) will FayMeyer (or perhaps a more KTM specific shop like Elite) load the competition map onto your ECU? I'd give Trailtech, Jeff at Slavens Racing, or Chip at Munn racing a call and see if they can verify. Also take a look at this Trailtech map switch page wich discusses it a bit. (EDIT: I see that Toddler added the map switch to his bike. Todd, did you have to load the competition map onto your CPU first?)
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pfb screwed with this post 03-26-2012 at 12:54 PM
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:30 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfb View Post
This is what I understand about the mapping switch... Before you can adjust the mapping, you need to make sure the 'competition' map is loaded into the ECU. Then you have three mapping choices, one of which is the default map that you currently have. Being able to flatten out (detune) the power on the bike would probably be nice for technical riding. So really the questions are 1) how can you verify what ECU map is loaded into your computer, 2) verify that the competition map can be loaded if it is not, and 3) will FayMeyer (or perhaps a more KTM specific shop like Elite) load the competition map onto your ECU? I'd give Trailtech, Jeff at Slavens Racing, or Chip at Munn racing a call and see if they can verify. Also take a look at this Trailtech map switch page wich discusses it a bit. (EDIT: I see that Toddler added the map switch to his bike. Todd, did you have to load the competition map onto your CPU first?)
I was told the competition map was put in before I took delivery.
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:10 PM   #40
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subscribed mr Geek, this looks like a top notch build job in the making. Looks like a top notch shop space as well.

I tore open my brand spanking new (350) EXC on Sunday, appears to be about at the same step as you.

here's the exc wire mess up front to compare, not too bad, no jumpers...


looks like similar hdb stabilizer setup from paul (minus anodized), 1 5/8" rise over stock.


yep, advantage goes to xc-w model, no need to remove any of the emission stuff. Although charcoal canister and bits came off in very short order. SAS removal is another story.

dvwalker screwed with this post 03-26-2012 at 06:26 PM
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:17 PM   #41
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top clamp bolt sizes

Which lower riser bolt size did you order with your ADV clamp? 10mm or 12mm ? I'm ready to roll with this clamp purchase. The adjustable clutch lever I purchased contacts the monsterous turn signal/horn/headlight assembly on my EXC so it has to be relocated to the bars.
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heetseeker screwed with this post 03-26-2012 at 08:05 PM Reason: I tried reading the directions, for once.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:57 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heetseeker View Post
monsterous turn signal/horn/headlight assembly on my EXC
I'm in same boat with my clutch position shifted to far over. This compact control should fix the problem.

Top clamp is 90x38/40mm bolt pattern

back to the Mr Geek channel

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Old 03-27-2012, 07:37 AM   #43
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Excellent work as usual Mr. Geek.

I am going to follow this one closely as I got the same awesome riser / top clamp assembly from HDB but haven't properly wired it up yet.
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:30 PM   #44
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EE tall soft seat pics

here you go!







the white 500 has stocker seat, obviously black 500 has EE tall, soft.
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:40 PM   #45
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cool thanks!

which skid plate is that?
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