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Old 03-25-2012, 08:22 AM   #1
LasseNC OP
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I have 1 terminal, but I need 3 cables attached.

Hello!

I am making the wiring harness on my GT380 caferacer. The headlight I have is a british styled unit, with a "british style" contact.

It has three positions, OFF, LOW, HIGH.

When I switch to LOW, I want the Horn, Low Beam, Rearlight and Ignition to be on.

Problem is, there is only one terminal.

So my question is, how do I avoid piggybacking it all?
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:52 AM   #2
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you really should fit an ignition switch before that off/low/high light switch. it would make it all so much easier...

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Old 03-25-2012, 11:00 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC View Post
Hello!

The headlight I have is a british styled unit, with a "british style" contact.

It has three positions, OFF, LOW, HIGH.
If you're using a Brit (Lucas) 3 position light switch. It's OFF/DIM/FLICKER.
Sorry couldn't help myself.
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:27 AM   #4
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Easier than finding a suitable way to get three spades on one terminal? I doubt it Kevin.

It would been that I'd have to source an ignitionswitch and use alot more wires, plus where would I put it? :) I'm going keyless minimalistic.
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:35 PM   #5
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A terminal strip, like this. Mounted out of the way, can provide a solid way to build branch circuits.
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:37 PM   #6
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Was thinking about something like that, but can't find these around here.
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Old 03-25-2012, 01:05 PM   #7
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Not exactly the same, but perhaps this:
http://biltema.dk/da/Bil---MC/Bil-ti...klemmer-24394/
At Biltema
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Old 03-25-2012, 02:45 PM   #8
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Use a six pole, double throw switch. Run power to both center terminals, high and low beam to the end terminals on one side and your horn/ignition/brake light to both terminals on the opposite side. Bring the horn/ignition/brake wire out of the headlight shell back to a small 4 fuse box under the seat, you can run wires to everything from there. Not truly minimalist, it substitutes a fusebox for a multiple splice.
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Old 03-26-2012, 05:44 AM   #9
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Hi Mike

Do you have a picture of one of those? I am not sure I understand.

Here is what I did as a temp. way, I know it is bound to fail.

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Old 03-26-2012, 10:11 AM   #10
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so what do you want when it's on high beam? same thing? if so, unless you use diodes or something, you'll get feedback through and not get what you think you'll get.
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:14 AM   #11
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so what do you want when it's on high beam? same thing? if so, unless you use diodes or something, you'll get feedback through and not get what you think you'll get.
How so? That doesn't make sense to me.

High beam is located in the switch itself, and not in the bridge, but when High is on, both High and Low will be on.
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:51 AM   #12
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I don't like to run that many functions through one switch. How about the LOW position tripping a relay for all functions (or most of them). The switch is designed for a headlight only, adding more current will make it fail prematurely.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:31 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Nessman View Post
I don't like to run that many functions through one switch. How about the LOW position tripping a relay for all functions (or most of them). The switch is designed for a headlight only, adding more current will make it fail prematurely.
Do you know what such a relay is called? Sounds like a good idea.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC View Post
Do you know what such a relay is called? Sounds like a good idea.
The airhead BMW's use such a relay for the headlamp and horn.

I can't think of the part number offhand, but it's a very generic item that you can get at any auto parts supplier for $5-$6 (or euro equiv.), or from any BMW motorcycle dealer for $60. (yeh, I know, there's a diode in those, which wouldn't be needed in this application)

Someone in the airhead section of this forum can fill in the blanks.


of course, if you're really looking for minimal, why not wire the ignition direct to the voltage regulator and use a battery eliminator (really big capacitor)? Then all you have to connect to the switch are your lights and horn.

Depending on how your electrical system works, you might be able to get away without adding a battery eliminator. I run my BSA 441 with no battery. I have to switch off the lights before I try to start the motor, but once it's running, the alternator (Lucas!) can handle the motor and the lights just fine.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:59 PM   #15
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Apologies Lasse, I didn't have time to detail my relay idea, I'll try tomorrow.

You want to use the light switch as an ignition switch right?

How many wires does your switch have? I'm assuming three, power in, low out and high out.

Do you not intend to use the high beam wire? If all the functions you mentioned need to work on both high and low settings it's a bit more difficult.

Handlebar kill switch? Dash (instrument) lights? They both get involved in the wiring if you have them.
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