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Old 06-24-2012, 12:52 PM   #46
bmwblake OP
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: nashville, tn
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this week, more time spent cleaning. mainly on the recently arrived r75 heads/cylinders/pistons.

while the pistons were soaking in some cleaner, i decided to pull the petcocks from the tank and finally inspect the interior a bit more. that led to several hours of removing a botched Kreem liner. using the most sophisticated bent metal coat hanger i could muster, i was able to strip the liner out in big sections. what looks like a shredded buckskin shirt is the removed liner. now i have a tank with a rusty interior that needs to be dealt with.

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Old 06-24-2012, 01:34 PM   #47
datchew
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It's been said before and it's still true. Kreem sucks.
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Old 06-24-2012, 08:59 PM   #48
Schlug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwblake View Post
this week, more time spent cleaning. mainly on the recently arrived r75 heads/cylinders/pistons.

while the pistons were soaking in some cleaner, i decided to pull the petcocks from the tank and finally inspect the interior a bit more. that led to several hours of removing a botched Kreem liner. using the most sophisticated bent metal coat hanger i could muster, i was able to strip the liner out in big sections. what looks like a shredded buckskin shirt is the removed liner. now i have a tank with a rusty interior that needs to be dealt with.

Good lord, THAT pile of hog anus is Kreem?

I have heard it said that Kreem sucks, but I have never seen anything like that.
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:17 AM   #49
bmwblake OP
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indeed. Kreem might work if the cleaning and prep is perfect, but i've yet to see that. i dealt with a tank years ago that had similar large chunks and i know it was done with Kreem.



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Good lord, THAT pile of hog anus is Kreem?

I have heard it said that Kreem sucks, but I have never seen anything like that.
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:22 AM   #50
bmwblake OP
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it's been slow going over the past month. most of my bike time has been spent cleaning parts and finding parts that i need.

i'll have pics later, but i finally got the cylinders honed and super clean, the heads are clean, and the top end is back on the block. it's good to see the parts shelf with some space on it.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:31 AM   #51
US_Marshall
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Looks good, I like the head light on that model and am trying get one for my /6.

For the gas tank, I have had OK success with CLR cleaner and copper BB's. It may take a couple of try washing's to get it clean but most of the flaky rust will be gone. If your are has a radiator shop, they may be able to clean your gas tank.
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:21 AM   #52
LoJack
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Ha! Did that to my /5 tank a few weeks ago. Tank jerky. There are still a few little bit's for and aft that I haven't gotten yet, but I picked up an old tank from a local Airhead and ADV member that I am using in the mean time. Think I'm going to go with POR 15 for a new liner.
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Old 08-14-2012, 05:10 AM   #53
bmwblake OP
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i was planning on going with por15 for a tank liner as well. i've heard very good things about the results.

as promised, here's some pics of the top end back on the motor.

one of the heads during the cleaning process. new orings went in behind the collars for the valve towers.



pistons going in:





all back together, in several colors


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Old 09-02-2012, 12:32 PM   #54
bmwblake OP
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a little more progress this week. i started stripping the tank and was surprised to find some bondo on the right side. that just adds a bit of time to the paint strip and prep process.




i also cleaned up the wheels and put on new rim strips, tubes, and tires. the area under one side of my table is gathering wheels at an alarming rate.

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Old 09-02-2012, 01:55 PM   #55
wirewrkr
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You did change the cam, right?
and the final drive and the speedo to match?
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Old 09-02-2012, 02:42 PM   #56
bmwblake OP
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Didn't realize the cam needed to be changed. Any info on that?

Haven't gotten far enough to worry about the speedo yet. Pretty sure I have an r75 final drive around.


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Originally Posted by wirewrkr View Post
You did change the cam, right?
and the final drive and the speedo to match?
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Old 09-02-2012, 03:35 PM   #57
disston
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You have what was originally an R50/5? And it is now going to be an R75/5? They did not have the same cam shaft. The smaller bikes, R50 and R60, do not share cam shafts with the larger bikes, R75 and later R90, R80 or R100. It will work of course but it is reported by people who have tried it that it didn't work very well.

When changing the cam shaft make sure the key in the shaft and oil pump rotor matches. I think you can use any size key as long as they are all the same size. It is certainly easier to change a cam shaft while the engine is not in the bike. The oil pan off and the lifters pulled up may be enough to get her done but look carefully at that key slot. It will be much easier if you pull the flywheel. Since this engine has not been run the gaskets may survive being taken apart.
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Old 09-02-2012, 03:42 PM   #58
wirewrkr
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The R50 and R60 used a different cam than the R75/80/90/100 (which all shared the same grind).
It will run, but will fall on it's face. I did this once and didn't cange the cam either, Whoops!
It's a pain in the ass to change the cam at this point. Did yoa geta set of carbs with that top end?
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Old 09-02-2012, 07:00 PM   #59
bmwblake OP
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damn. better to know now that try to troubleshoot that one further down the road with the bike all the way back together. i guess i missed that part when reading about the swap.

i have a cam. i have a set of mikunis for the bike that are for an r75. i've never done mikunis on an airhead, but the price was right.



Quote:
Originally Posted by wirewrkr View Post
The R50 and R60 used a different cam than the R75/80/90/100 (which all shared the same grind).
It will run, but will fall on it's face. I did this once and didn't cange the cam either, Whoops!
It's a pain in the ass to change the cam at this point. Did yoa geta set of carbs with that top end?
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Old 09-02-2012, 09:14 PM   #60
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got all the special cables and spigots too?
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