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Old 04-02-2012, 07:12 AM   #16
MortimerSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRupert View Post
...

To adjust KTM ADV: Before installing fork legs, cables and wires, and with the 5 x top triple clamp bolts loose, tighten the 27 so that there is a little drag; then back off until free. Install fork legs and wheel.

...
Recheck after 500 miles or so.
This sounds good for the initial installation. But, I wouldn't tear it all down again for the 500 mile readjustment. So, that takes me back to the wheel-on-the-ground method.







I'll be quiet now.


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Old 04-02-2012, 07:30 AM   #17
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I had some play in mine when I re-installed. Long story short my top bearing cup wasn't seated all the way, three whacks and it was seated and my forks had zero play or notch after tightening it all up.
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Old 04-04-2012, 01:43 PM   #18
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Got time to pull it apart this afternoon

bottom bearing is fully seated on interference fit shaft


bottom cup is fully seated


top cup is fully seated


top bearing sits nicely and rotates nicely


space top bearing sits above steering head tube


with triple clamp on and lower clamp fully seated...
(i.e. I tigthened the 27mm as tight as it would go, did up the pinch bolt, and removed the 27 to see where the shaft is...)

this is how much gap there is between the top of the shaft and the top of the triple


Could someone who has a moment please remove their 27mm bolt and see if this is the type of gap they have? Removing the 27mm does NOT loosen your head bearings - the pinch bolt holds everything.. the 27mm is just used in tensioning.. you can remove it and re-tighten it without effecting your bike's bearings in anyway.



thanks in advance.
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Old 04-04-2012, 01:49 PM   #19
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I have about a 2mm gap. Looks like you're good.
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:08 PM   #20
DeepInIt
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And you still have a click? And it clicks when you grab only the upper tubes, not the lower? Meaning, it is definitely movement in the steering head?

The gap depends on the thickness of your top triple I think so not a great way to measure but it all looks great. But that´s using my memory.
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:55 PM   #21
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Yah, I'm stumped. After reading your thread I went out and loosened the lower triples just to make sure I had done mine correctly since it went so easily. I just replaced my top clamp with the scotts damper arrangement, but it really was:

tighten 27 to good n snug
check drag with front wheel off ground
loosen 27 minimally just to make sure its not too tight
check by pulling fork legs fore-aft, make sure theres no play (there wasn't)
recheck drag.
Snug up pinch bolt and triple bolts, done.

I had no change after loosening and re-torquing the lower triple bolts, and I'm having trouble visualizing what's happening with yours.

The only thing that makes any sens to me is that you have bushing play in your newly-rebuilt fork legs, but if you're not pulling on the lowers to get the click then that can't be it.

Stumped.

Steve
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:17 PM   #22
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The click is (was) independent of the forks.. I totally removed them and grabbed the bottom triple and could cause the click.

That said.. I think I found my culprit....

The margin between too loose and clicking and "tight enough" (from a bearing point of view) was causing it to be too tight from a steering point of view. That big rubber o-ring at the top was binding up and causing the rotation to be stiff before the bearings were actually tight.

The lower oring shown in this photo:


I removed the big rubber o-ring and then I was able to finely adjust the tension on the bearing stack and remove the bearing play BEFORE the steering became too stiff.

I need to find some sort of replacement as I'm sure my bearings are now more susceptible to rain/water/rust... but in the meanwhile I was able to get the tension correct.


I appreciate all the input/feedback everyone
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:29 PM   #23
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:35 PM   #24
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I think that big rubber ring #7 goes under the upper sealing cap #6...the other one pictured #10 is the lower seal.
Is that how they were installed?

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Old 04-04-2012, 07:55 PM   #25
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Yes that's the way they were installed.. 7 was the issue.. not sure why it wasn't fitting right/well.

I might order a fresh one.

Question if anyone knows:

Do you put #7 on the steering head and slide it down... or do you put it inside #6 and then mount 6?
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:07 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
Yes that's the way they were installed.. 7 was the issue.. not sure why it wasn't fitting right/well.

I might order a fresh one.

Question if anyone knows:

Do you put #7 on the steering head and slide it down... or do you put it inside #6 and then mount 6?
I've just put it inside #6, and installed it that way..
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:51 PM   #27
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I installed mine over the head and had no problems.
Looks like it should work either way...
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:56 PM   #28
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How about some silicone spray on #7 ?
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Old 04-05-2012, 12:39 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOKER650 View Post
I installed mine over the head and had no problems.
Looks like it should work either way...
I'm sure Jokers right, just put the seal in the groove over the steering head and all should be fine. Can't see how it could offer too much resistance with retainer No. 6 pushing down on it (it's only thin sheet metal). Also you need that gap between the top triple clamp because if it was flush you would have no adjustment and would not be able to tighten down the clamp as the bearing wore or you needed to make adjustments.

The bike 'O' ring is a funny shape (from memory ). Have you got the flat edge seated on the steering head and the narrowed section rubbing on the retainer.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:39 AM   #30
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Geek,

I've had quite a few issues seating that oring bully and haw had several rebuilds where I caught the oring half cocked ad sticking out from user the dust cap. What I did was grease the oring, and set it on the head tube boss, then slip the dust cover over in a twisting motion, and then press the bottom triple up Ito it alas I held it down.

That might be what's happening, or perhaps emit spec's something different. Who knows. All I can say is the system is more gimmicky, but seals WAY better than the husky, which appears to have no deal whatsoever.
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