Funky rear wheel stud threads

[r1200gs_chris]

I changed the rear wheel flange on my '05 this weekend and was really surprised at how simple the whole job was. As I was reassembling 1 of the rear wheel studs on the replacement flange was being stubborn and needing some talking to before it would thread in. I could not thread it in with my fingers and confirmed that it was the threads in the flange and not the bolt by swapping another stud in. I did get it to thread and torque properly but next time it's out it will give me problems. So, I am planning on using a M10 x 1.25 thread chaser next time I'm working in there to clean up the threads. Worst case scenario would be a thread insert or replace the flange (again) . Will using a thread insert throw off the balance on the rear wheel? Has anyone else done this?

Thanks

[JimVonBaden]

Likely there is a burr in the threads that will clean with a chase. I recommend you use new bolts as well.

I wouldn't like to tap and install an insert on just one of them, though it would probably be OK.

Jim

[SkiFly01]

I've done this on Fidanza flywheels for the 300ZX, they are aluminium and tend to strip out the threads after a few times of install and removal, you won't have anything noticeably out of balance. Your tire wearing down and possibly changing the way it's balanced will have more effect than a heli-coil or time-sert

[AntonLargiader]

I'd just start with a thread chaser. If it threads in easily until the burr, then you won't have affected the strength.

How far in was the problem?

[r1200gs_chris]

Started after a few threads, say 5mm.

[r1200gs_chris]

It was a balmy -6 today so I decided to pull the rear-wheel and checkout the threads. I ran the 10 x 1.25 thread chaser thru no problem, good as new! Thanks for the advice.

- Chris

[lkchris]

Good to know about this. Will bring a stud along when/if I pick one up at the parts counter for an on-the-spot initial check. Some incentive here, then, to have the dealer install it.

[r1200gs_chris]

That's a good thing deal to bring a stud along. It takes about. And hour to replace this part. Remove the wheel, rear caliper, and speed sensor. Remove the retaining clip and attach a gear puller, using a plate across the axle (I had a cap machined to sit inside the axel). Start heating the flange with a torch, rotating slowly and putting pressure on it with the gear puller. You will hear the splines release after a few minutes and it will pull off by hand. Heat up the new flange with the torch for a few minutes and quickly and slide it back onto the axel. Make sure it seats in and replace the c-clip. Have beer and pat yourself on the back. While you have it all apart go ahead and change your gear oil while you are at it.

Good luck!