Kriega USA Luggage Q&A

[4TooMany]

Originally Posted by HaChayalBoded

Seems kinda silly. did you order direct from Kriega? If so, wouldn't the purchase be your proof of purchase?

I ordered it from Revzilla. If you order from Kriega, yes, it's much easier. I didn't know about the special offer when I ordered. And I like Revzilla a lot.

[Stagehand]

Great feature of Michael Gaynor on the blog, Mike!

[amanlikemike]

Originally Posted by Nowwhat

Placed an order this morning...

Within 5 minutes I received an E-mail letting me know the items had been pulled....

At the 15 minute mark a message that the items will be shipped by the afternoon...


I only have 6 or so Kriega items but they are quickly becoming my favorites. The "Harness" on the hydration pack for example is perfect for riding...it tucks in under my Leatt and the pack stays put....

Great gear...incredible service....

Just shipped.

Tracking number to follow via email in a couple of hours.

[amanlikemike]

Originally Posted by Stagehand

Great feature of Michael Gaynor on the blog, Mike!

Fanks, mate. Short but hopefully sweet.

He's a good lad is Mike.

Hope all is well with you!


Michael

[amanlikemike]

Originally Posted by HaChayalBoded

Seems kinda silly. did you order direct from Kriega? If so, wouldn't the purchase be your proof of purchase?

Correct. At www.kriega.us, the bonus pack deal was automatically applied and shipped with the main order. However, our dealers didn't necessarily have the same capacity and so we set up a link to downloadable PDF mail-in rebate form for their customers.

Think we got 99% of them out the same day the form landed in our mailbox.

Fair's fair!



Cheers,



Michael

[4TooMany]

Originally Posted by amanlikemike

Think we got 99% of them out the same day the form landed in our mailbox.

Fair's fair!

I got my US-5 in the mail today. Thanks! Works perfectly attached to my R-35.

[levain]

Mike,
it may seem ridiculous, but could you give a quick tutorial on properly adjusting a R20 backpack? Just got a craigslist score, and I want to make sure I'm using it optimally. It says on your site that it's preset at level 2, but where? I mean, those dots should line up where to be considered "Level 2".

[amanlikemike]

Originally Posted by levain

Mike,
it may seem ridiculous, but could you give a quick tutorial on properly adjusting a R20 backpack? Just got a craigslist score, and I want to make sure I'm using it optimally. It says on your site that it's preset at level 2, but where? I mean, those dots should line up where to be considered "Level 2".

No worries at all, levain!

With the R20, R15 and R30 (the R25 and R35 are slightly different), the loose ends of the upper harness straps slide in and out of an area behind the main compartment. So, primary adjustment is just a case of pushing the upper straps into the bag, at the point where they join the pack body (Point 1 on the image below). This gap is also where the drinking tube for our Hydrapak systems can be routed.

This creates enough slack for you to adjust the sliders (Point 2 on the image) to whichever setting you wish. The 1, 2 or 3 dots should line up in the center of the slider. Obviously you can go sometimes, to setting 2.5 (in-between 2 and 3) for example, but there is one point at which the slider will hit the horizontal elastic 'strap guide', and obviously the slider really needs to be either above or below that.

Alternatively, you can pull the loose ends of the straps clean out of the pack body, follow the same procedure as above, then stuff 'em back in again once you've made the adjustments. In my opinion, this is the easiest way.



This upper harness adjustment allows for differing chest sizes, alternative height settings of the pack and also the ability to accommodate varying thickness of riding gear, neck braces etc.

Back the side straps all the way off, then put the pack on and cinch them both down at once. None of the straps (particularly the upper ones) need to be too tight and you should pretty much always be able to get a finger under the harness on your shoulders (so there's no pressure on the nerves and muscle there).

Once you get your optimal base setting, from there on-in you simply click in and out of the pack using the central clip, which can be operated without removing your gloves. To make it even easier to get on and off, you can always lift the slides on the chest piece, at the top of the side straps, to back them off, so the harness opens super-wide.

You should have also got a removable waist strap with the pack. This is only really necessary for rough off-road riding - under general usage, the pack will stay put without it.

The fit you are looking for is one that is secure, but not suffocating, with the load balanced between your sternum and lower back.

Abridged versions of the above instructions can be found on the website (click on the 'Fitting' thumbnail on the relevant page) and in the catalog, but I'm glad you asked.

Congrats on your Craigslist score, too! That said, these type of sales always make me sad because the only reason people ever tend to part with a Kriega pack is if they no longer ride.

Cheers,



Michael

[levain]

Originally Posted by amanlikemike

No worries at all, levain!

With the R20, R15 and R30 (the R25 and R35 are slightly different), the loose ends of the upper harness straps slide in and out of an area behind the main compartment. So, primary adjustment is just a case of pushing the upper straps into the bag, at the point where they join the pack body (Point 1 on the image below). This gap is also where the drinking tube for our Hydrapak systems can be routed.

This creates enough slack for you to adjust the sliders (Point 2 on the image) to whichever setting you wish. The 1, 2 or 3 dots should line up in the center of the slider. Obviously you can go sometimes, to setting 2.5 (in-between 2 and 3) for example, but there is one point where the slider will hit the horizontal elastic 'strap guide', and obviously the slider really needs to be either above or below that.

Alternatively, you can pull the loose ends of the straps clean out of the pack body, follow the same procedure as above, then stuff 'em back in again once you've made the adjustments. In my opinion, this is the easiest way.



This upper harness adjustment allows for differing chest sizes, alternative height settings of the pack and also the ability to accommodate varying thickness of riding gear, neck braces etc.

Back the side straps all the way off, then put the pack on and cinch them both down at once. None of the straps (particularly the upper ones) need to be too tight and you should pretty much always be able to get a finger under the harness on your shoulders (so there's no pressure on the nerves and muscle there).

Once you get your optimal base setting, from there on-in you simply click in and out of the pack using the central clip, which can be operated without removing your gloves. To make it even easier to get on and off, you can always lift the slides on the chest piece, at the top of the side straps, to back them off, so the harness opens super-wide.

You should have also got a removable waist strap with the pack. This is only really necessary for rough off-road riding - under general usage, the pack will stay put without it.

The fit you are looking for is one that is secure, but not suffocating, with the load balanced between your sternum and lower back.

Abridged versions of the above instructions can be found on website (click on the 'Fitting' thumbnail on the relevant page) and in the catalog, but I'm glad you asked.

Congrats on your Craigslist score, too! That said, these type of sales always make me sad because the only reason people ever tend to part with a Kriega pack is if they no longer ride.

Cheers,



Michael

thanks Mike. It's a great pack, and a better score(for me).
I was also wondering how the hydration tube is routed so thanks for that tidbit. I figured there had to be a better option than out the zippered closure

[amanlikemike]

Originally Posted by levain

thanks Mike. It's a great pack, and a better score(for me).
I was also wondering how the hydration tube is routed so thanks for that tidbit. I figured there had to be a better option than out the zippered closure

No sweat. While we're on the subject, I might as well add this:



Hopefully, it's self-explanatory, but please let me know if you'd like me to elaborate.

Since that photo was taken, we've upgraded the drinking system to these beauties:


Tougher, with a new, big-bore tubing system (actual tube is made of insulating material, rather than just being wrapped in it), vertical dry-break valve and a snazzy 45-degree, lockable bite valve with dust cap, among other things. And, like all Hydrapaks (and unlike cheaper reservoirs), featuring an upper edge that can be fully opened for easy filling and turning inside-out for cleaning / drying to avoid bacterial build-up. Full spec here: http://www.kriega.us/hydrapak-3l-res...cle-hydration/


Cheers,


Michael

[team ftb]

Greetings - I've been riding with various generations of the GL Coyote for years and been pretty pleased with them except from a waterproof capability. A friend just purchased my Coyote so I will either purchase something new if I can find anything that works better than the Coyote. If not I guess its a new GL bag. Kriega offers a lovely, durable, waterproof packagewhich is a huge one up on the Coyote but am curious if there any videos out there documenting how long it takes to remove the bags and reinstall the bags from the bike? It seems to me the strapping of three bags will take quite a bit longer than the Coyote, unless I'm misunderstanding things.

Another concern and after reading through 22 pages I saw no mention of it. I use all the seat when riding; technical off roading on the front and when slabbing on the rear, so i like access to the full seat length. The Coyote gives me both options:



When I see pics of the Overlander 30 set-up that looks like the replacement for my Coyote I see a metal Cam Lok buckle sitting smack dab in the middle of the seat.



Is it the end users mounting the products inefficiently or is the buckle in that location a side effect of the mounting system? If so is there a way of mounting the Overlander 30 that removes the Cam lok buckle from the seat? I thought others would be concerned but after reading through most of the thread I have yet read anything addressing this point that concerns me.. What am I missing? On a multi week trip it looks like it would be a pain in the arse literally.

Thank you.

[amanlikemike]

Originally Posted by team ftb

Greetings - I've been riding with various generations of the GL Coyote for years and been pretty pleased with them except from a waterproof capability. A friend just purchased my Coyote so I will either purchase something new if I can find anything that works better than the Coyote. If not I guess its a new GL bag. Kriega offers a lovely, durable, waterproof packagewhich is a huge one up on the Coyote but am curious if there any videos out there documenting how long it takes to remove the bags and reinstall the bags from the bike? It seems to me the strapping of three bags will take quite a bit longer than the Coyote, unless I'm misunderstanding things.

Another concern and after reading through 22 pages I saw no mention of it. I use all the seat when riding; technical off roading on the front and when slabbing on the rear, so i like access to the full seat length. The Coyote gives me both options:



When I see pics of the Overlander 30 set-up that looks like the replacement for my Coyote I see a metal Cam Lok buckle sitting smack dab in the middle of the seat.



Is it the end users mounting the products inefficiently or is the buckle in that location a side effect of the mounting system? If so is there a way of mounting the Overlander 30 that removes the Cam lok buckle from the seat? I thought others would be concerned but after reading through most of the thread I have yet read anything addressing this point that concerns me.. What am I missing? On a multi week trip it looks like it would be a pain in the arse literally.

Thank you.

Hey team ftb,

Thanks for your post and interest in the Overlander 30

We don't have any videos of the bags being attached and removed. We're scheduled to produce some official videos for our entire range in the near future, but in the meantime, I will be able to make a quick phone one when my bike's out of the shop. That said, I wouldn't be at all surprised if one of the massively helpful chaps (probably traveltoad! ) on this thread beats me to it.

The initial instal takes a bit of messing around to find the optimum position for you, your bike and your riding style before drilling in the Rack Loops. Once this base setting is found the height and pitch of the bags can be adjusted on the fly using the Alloy Hook Straps, Cross-Strap and Cam Buckles.

From there on in, attaching and removing the bags takes approximately ten seconds. Simply slacken off the cross-strap, unhook the two hooks from the Rack Loops, undo the cam straps at the frame and lift off as a set. The only thing left on your bike would be the Rack Loops.

Positioning is dependent on personal preference and physical space available. But the WR install you have posted a pic of is waaaay forward. The Rack Loops could easily be placed further back so that the strap was out of general 'butt range'.

In most installations the cross-strap sits on the back edge of the seat, with the bags a bit lower and the [injection molded nylon] cam buckle positioned much more to the side. Depending on the bike and type of gear carried, it may be possible to shift everything even further back onto the fender, but - in general - the cross-strap shouldn't get in the way, even on steep descents or drop-offs. That said, taking up a small area of real estate on the seat is a small price to pay for having rock-solid fitment and a low center of gravity, along with the other benefits you mentioned, so it is ideal for this kind of silliness :


Happy to report that Craig's oversized, Dakar racing nuts did not, at any point, catch on the cam buckle during this maneuver and are still fully in-tact!

I hope that helps, but please feel free to PM me a contact number if you'd like me to call and go through the options in greater detail.


Cheers,



Michael

[traveltoad]

No videos... but like Michael said, once the initial fitting has been done the Overlander30 bags go on and come off very quickly. Having also owned a GL Coyote, I would say the Overlander30 goes on/comes off more quickly than the GL.

[amanlikemike]

Originally Posted by traveltoad

No videos... but like Michael said, once the initial fitting has been done the Overlander30 bags go on and come off very quickly. Having also owned a GL Coyote, I would say the Overlander30 goes on/comes off more quickly than the GL.

^^^

[pinevalley]

Originally Posted by traveltoad

No videos... but like Michael said, once the initial fitting has been done the Overlander30 bags go on and come off very quickly. Having also owned a GL Coyote, I would say the Overlander30 goes on/comes off more quickly than the GL.

My experience has been the same as well. I also find the Overlander easier to load/unload than the GL on the bike as well.

In addition, the ability to also place wet/dirty items outside of the waterproof liner further enhances the functionality. Placing a soaking wet tent inside the GL tended to make everything in the bag damp.