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Old 04-30-2013, 08:48 AM   #691
Jason Abbott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amanlikemike View Post
This will hoist the bags into a more diagonal position, placing more surface tension (rather than pressure) on the side panels and straighten out the strapping.
That makes sense. I will give it a shot when I get the one loop replaced. And I'll post up some pictures of my loop layout on the KTM 500. Thanks again.
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:17 AM   #692
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Originally Posted by team ftb View Post
Jason can you be so kind to post the pics on the thread so we can both learn about mounting the Overlander 30's on the 500?

When I put my OL 30's up against my 500 I saw a need for something to keep the side number plate and the muffler from making contact. The OEM heatshield on the numberplate will not work with the bag constantly making contact with the hot exhaust in my opinion. I've done this before on my KTM 525 and will be protecting the 500 side panel as well.
One of these should do the trick. Just ordered one up for my bike after dropping it and melting the side panel:



Thanks to traveltoad for the source.
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:51 AM   #693
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When using the above heat shield device just confirm you have enough clearance between the rear tire and muffler on full compression of the rear shock. On my 525 when bottomed, the tire would rub the OEM muffler, luckily later model KTM's have designed more oval shaped mufflers to get around this issue. Edit: I've just seen they have a half slider which would be better if you have clearance issues. Michael (and Traveltoad) did you need the additional heat strips they sell to prevent melting of the device or has it been fine without?

An inexpensive method for a last minute fix to offset the sideplate from the muffler are simply two large hose clamps with the fastening coupling centered between the muffler and numberplate. Cost $2. Wrap two hose clamps round the muffler (with the screw coupling positioned between the muffler and numberplate) about 3-4 inches apart and that should keep the numberplate off the muffler and not impede on clearance issues between the tire and muffler.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:03 AM   #694
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Jason;

Those bags should not loosen up like that..........one thing I wondered about with your video.........is there any way that the tail bag was attached in such a way that it could move, press the release and undo the rear OL strap??

It looked to me like the front lower straps were set too long on the ladder bar and not allowing you to tighten the rear OL straps enough.......but it is hard to tell in the video, so I might be mistaken?????

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Old 04-30-2013, 11:03 AM   #695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team ftb View Post
When using the above heat shield device just confirm you have enough clearance between the rear tire and muffler on full compression of the rear shock. On my 525 when bottomed, the tire would rub the OEM muffler, luckily later model KTM's have designed more oval shaped mufflers to get around this issue. Edit: I've just seen they have a half slider which would be better if you have clearance issues. Michael (and Traveltoad) did you need the additional heat strips they sell to prevent melting of the device or has it been fine without?

An inexpensive method for a last minute fix to offset the sideplate from the muffler are simply two large hose clamps with the fastening coupling centered between the muffler and numberplate. Cost $2. Wrap two hose clamps round the muffler (with the screw coupling positioned between the muffler and numberplate) about 3-4 inches apart and that should keep the numberplate off the muffler and not impede on clearance issues between the tire and muffler.
Good call. And yup - there's more than one way to skin a cat!

The sliders come with the heat shield material included, but they sell spare sections in case you need to remove it regularly etc. I have yet to receive mine, but will report back when I do. However, my Ti Remus end-can runs remarkably cool, so the heat shouldn't be an issue - for me it's more about helping keep stuff clear of the 2-1 pipe, which does get a little on the warm side, so I went for one of these TrailJammer shields too, while I was at it:

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Old 04-30-2013, 11:08 AM   #696
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Originally Posted by amanlikemike View Post




Mike;

You might want to hide that ABS sensor wire so it does not get ripped off!

Cheers
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:11 AM   #697
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Originally Posted by Jason Abbott View Post




Jason;
In the photo...........the lower front strap does not look like it is secure........ can it move up and down on the frame??
You need to secure it somehow!

Cheers
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:13 AM   #698
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Originally Posted by Droptarotter View Post
Mike;

You might want to hide that ABS sensor wire so it does not get ripped off!

Cheers
That's not my bike, mate. Got the wire tucked away on mine (considering a possible delete option too...), but thanks for caring!
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:41 AM   #699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Droptarotter View Post
Jason;
In the photo...........the lower front strap does not look like it is secure........ can it move up and down on the frame??
You need to secure it somehow!

Cheers
Yup!

The lower strap needs to be attached to the subframe, not the main frame. As it stands, whenever you're pulling / shortening straps to tighten the pack onto the Rack Loops, the whole system will just slide upwards. No tension is being created because the bottom strap is not fixed tightly to the bike / frame. The instructions show the bottom strap should be at the junction of the airbox plastic and the subframe, which is a good spot on the 500 EXC.

A replacement Rack Loop is on the way. Please screw it on as tight as you dare and be generous with the Loctite, then allow it to cure fully before using the system in anger.

After that, you should be good to go!


Cheers,



Michael
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:07 PM   #700
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:18 PM   #701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team ftb View Post
When using the above heat shield device just confirm you have enough clearance between the rear tire and muffler on full compression of the rear shock. On my 525 when bottomed, the tire would rub the OEM muffler, luckily later model KTM's have designed more oval shaped mufflers to get around this issue. Edit: I've just seen they have a half slider which would be better if you have clearance issues. Michael (and Traveltoad) did you need the additional heat strips they sell to prevent melting of the device or has it been fine without?

An inexpensive method for a last minute fix to offset the sideplate from the muffler are simply two large hose clamps with the fastening coupling centered between the muffler and numberplate. Cost $2. Wrap two hose clamps round the muffler (with the screw coupling positioned between the muffler and numberplate) about 3-4 inches apart and that should keep the numberplate off the muffler and not impede on clearance issues between the tire and muffler.
I don't even bother on the 400... I just let the side panel push against the exhaust can... so far so good (although, the OL30 is on the 950SE way more than the 400).

In reality... any high temp hose and a hose clamp would do the trick. Both should be available at a decent auto parts store. Still too much $$? Go to an auto repair shop and see if they have replaced any high temp hoses and use the old hose with a hose clamp.
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:48 PM   #702
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That's not my bike, mate. Got the wire tucked away on mine (considering a possible delete option too...), but thanks for caring!

Of course I care...............where else would I get my Kreiga stuff if you stuffed it????

Speaking of which, I got a small care package in the mail yesterday........too bad it did not arrive sooner or I would have used it......I will drop you a line in a few days with a reveiw.

Thanks again for sending the package, Michael!!
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:55 PM   #703
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Of course I care...............where else would I get my Kreiga stuff if you stuffed it????

Speaking of which, I got a small care package in the mail yesterday........too bad it did not arrive sooner or I would have used it......I will drop you a line in a few days with a reveiw.

Thanks again for sending the package, Michael!!
Haha! Fair play.

And yeah - lemme know what you think. I reckon it's by far the best solution out there, but will be interested to hear your opinion.


Cheers,


Michael
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:46 PM   #704
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Originally Posted by amanlikemike View Post
Hi mate,

Again, something's up here! Although they can be a bit stubborn the first time due to the very tight tolerances, the connectors should line up perfectly if the instructions are followed (i.e. add fasteners diagonally, rather than from top to bottom etc) and have done on every set I've seen so far. If they don't on yours, I'll be more than happy to send replacements platforms. Any photos you have which show the misalignment would be useful in diagnosing this.

A damp iPad case is not acceptable to us in any way shape or form, but that *could* theoretically happen if fasteners were missing. Were you sure to use the included Loctite on each one and let it cure for 24 hours before use? Regardless, I'll send you replacements, if you let me know how many you need.

I reckon we can get your system firing on all cylinders without too much hassle.


Michael
I know I was excited when I first got them, so I honestly am not sure what I did when I did my first assembly. Pretty certain I did the typical manly method of it. You know: "I don't need no stinkin' instructions. How hard can it be?" Nearly certain I didn't use the Loctite, and probably went until they were tight before saying "Good 'nough"

So I had misalignments as big as this


Which, doing the best I could by angling them together, left me with gaps like this:


Anyways I just went back and looked at it again, and using the proper tools this time I got one whole side put together correctly. Only have 3 sets of fasteners remaining. Need to replace the other 7 to get it as good as new again.

Two other questions: could the threaded sleeves rubbing against the liners cause small abrasions on the outsides like this:


And would something like that be enough to let moisture in?
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:03 PM   #705
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Originally Posted by TStorm View Post
I know I was excited when I first got them, so I honestly am not sure what I did when I did my first assembly. Pretty certain I did the typical manly method of it. You know: "I don't need no stinkin' instructions. How hard can it be?" Nearly certain I didn't use the Loctite, and probably went until they were tight before saying "Good 'nough"

So I had misalignments as big as this


Which, doing the best I could by angling them together, left me with gaps like this:


Anyways I just went back and looked at it again, and using the proper tools this time I got one whole side put together correctly. Only have 3 sets of fasteners remaining. Need to replace the other 7 to get it as good as new again.

Two other questions: could the threaded sleeves rubbing against the liners cause small abrasions on the outsides like this:


And would something like that be enough to let moisture in?

Yeeeeeeaaaaahhhhhh.... That'd do it!

The fasteners need to be fully flush, tightened and thread-locked. The abrasion on the inner liner is definitely a side-effect of them not being so, and it looks like just enough of the waterproof coating has been scrubbed off to allow moisture to wick its way in.

The packs need to be fitted as you would a car wheel (i.e. fasteners diagonally inserted across from each other and then tightened), so the corners of the bag can be pulled to fit (it needs to be a very tight tolerance to prevent them shaking off or wearing out over time). As you discovered, attaching them in pretty much any other order will make it all but impossible to line up the final couple of holes per bag. If - for some reason - it still proves tricky, you could always drill out the holes by another 0.5 / 1mm diameter to give a bit more tolerance. But that is a last resort and shouldn't be necessary.

Glad we got there in the end!

PM me your address and I'll stick seven sets of fasteners and a replacement liner in tomorrow's mail, so we can get this show back on the [off-] road.


Cheers,



Michael
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