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Old 05-08-2012, 09:33 PM   #16
James Adams
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You'll need to wire a headlight switch or a relay that turns the lights on only when the engine is running.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:45 PM   #17
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It is typ for the headlight to constantly have power with a basic DC conversion. Newer kits have a dc power delay built into the reg/rec that eliminates that.. You can add a switch or possibly rewire your key.switch.
Use caution with that kit. Watch the Reg/rectifier wires for overheating and overcharge of the battery.. They make great power, but....
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:48 PM   #18
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Thanks for the help. I will install a switch for now to test everything out and then use a relay later on when I get the dash installed and need power for heated grips and other things.

Cheers
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Old 05-10-2012, 05:54 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Subaru297 View Post
I asked Electrosport and they said that 250W is available in the driveable portion of the rpm and that is is 30-50W around idle but increases rapidly to 250W and levels out there.

Hopefully the reliability reports you have seen are not true! If so I guess I can modify the stock stator and see how well that works.
As LukasM says: They don't have good reputation. I know, because I've been through 5-6 of them. I know ALL about these stators and rectifiers, but I look at them as an item which is just "worn" over time. The problem is that it just breaks after some time. Sometimes after some months, sometimes after a couple of years. But there are no other options if you want lots of power on those non-EFI bikes. I used to do night-races, and then I need 2 x 35W HID's on my helmet in addition to one HID or this Extreme light from TT on the bike. Then some hated grips as the races where areoun freezing point. And at least, some charging left over for the battery. I have also emailed cut7 from ktmtalk.com, but no responces at all.

So this is what I know that will make the most life our of those 3-phase stator from Electrosport:
- Good contact netween RR and the frame, act as a heast sink -> is the key.
- Stator in oil batch (whihc is true on the 4.strokes). ON the 2-strokes, it gets too hot, and they break.
- All exessive power will go to ground, so use as much power as possible, and the RR will stay cooler.
- Put some money away regularly so you can replace the parts when they break, because they will :-)

If you can live with the ~100W the TT provides, it's MUCH more reliable. I've had no issues with them, but it's not enough power, so it's an issue.

I hope you will get long life out of your 3-phase. Please report back over time how it goes.

Don't get me wrong. Next time I'll be back in serious night racing, I'd buy this 3-phase straight away and just calculate it'll break after some time. But as long as they work, there are no other alternatives. (As long cut7 is not answering my emails)
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:15 AM   #20
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I wonder...could you put a switch on one of the leads from the stator to cut the power down by 1/3? It might "dirty" the power a bit, but a good battery could help make up for that.
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:55 AM   #21
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I wonder...could you put a switch on one of the leads from the stator to cut the power down by 1/3? It might "dirty" the power a bit, but a good battery could help make up for that.
I don't think so, because each of those three wires from the stator throw AC power (if I remember right, in the 50-60 area). And the troubleshooting process is to measure each wire to ground and see if they're giving equal power. I'm not saying the stator will fail, but likely the RR will be fooled and not giving the correct DC on the output side.
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Old 05-10-2012, 07:22 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by olec View Post
As LukasM says: They don't have good reputation. I know, because I've been through 5-6 of them. I know ALL about these stators and rectifiers, but I look at them as an item which is just "worn" over time. The problem is that it just breaks after some time. Sometimes after some months, sometimes after a couple of years. But there are no other options if you want lots of power on those non-EFI bikes. I used to do night-races, and then I need 2 x 35W HID's on my helmet in addition to one HID or this Extreme light from TT on the bike. Then some hated grips as the races where areoun freezing point. And at least, some charging left over for the battery. I have also emailed cut7 from ktmtalk.com, but no responces at all.

So this is what I know that will make the most life our of those 3-phase stator from Electrosport:
- Good contact netween RR and the frame, act as a heast sink -> is the key.
- Stator in oil batch (whihc is true on the 4.strokes). ON the 2-strokes, it gets too hot, and they break.
- All exessive power will go to ground, so use as much power as possible, and the RR will stay cooler.
- Put some money away regularly so you can replace the parts when they break, because they will :-)

If you can live with the ~100W the TT provides, it's MUCH more reliable. I've had no issues with them, but it's not enough power, so it's an issue.

I hope you will get long life out of your 3-phase. Please report back over time how it goes.

Don't get me wrong. Next time I'll be back in serious night racing, I'd buy this 3-phase straight away and just calculate it'll break after some time. But as long as they work, there are no other alternatives. (As long cut7 is not answering my emails)
Olec,

If you are having trouble with the R/Rs failing (and then frying the stators), fit a better one from a street bike. Ideally a late model Japanese sportbike, they use Shindengen (they make 90+% of all OEM R/R) MOSFET regulators stock. E.g. FH008x series from a CBR600RR.

They are of course bigger but should hold up forever, heat would also not be a problem because of the bigger sink, so you could mount it in or on top of the airbox.
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:19 AM   #23
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I don't think so, because each of those three wires from the stator throw AC power (if I remember right, in the 50-60 area). And the troubleshooting process is to measure each wire to ground and see if they're giving equal power. I'm not saying the stator will fail, but likely the RR will be fooled and not giving the correct DC on the output side.
Good point. The output voltage of a simple R/R (which these no doubt are) would depend on all three phases producing the appropriate voltage. Oh well, it was an idea.
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Old 05-10-2012, 12:47 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Olec,

If you are having trouble with the R/Rs failing (and then frying the stators), fit a better one from a street bike. Ideally a late model Japanese sportbike, they use Shindengen (they make 90+% of all OEM R/R) MOSFET regulators stock. E.g. FH008x series from a CBR600RR.

They are of course bigger but should hold up forever, heat would also not be a problem because of the bigger sink, so you could mount it in or on top of the airbox.
This is the ticket.. The reg/rec is the issue with the esport system.. I Personally melted down 2 batteries which in turn fried new air filters and other parts..and smoked a wire harness..Also know of many many others with the same issues..But hey.. what do I know??
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Old 05-10-2012, 02:32 PM   #25
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Olec,

If you are having trouble with the R/Rs failing (and then frying the stators), fit a better one from a street bike. Ideally a late model Japanese sportbike, they use Shindengen (they make 90+% of all OEM R/R) MOSFET regulators stock. E.g. FH008x series from a CBR600RR.

They are of course bigger but should hold up forever, heat would also not be a problem because of the bigger sink, so you could mount it in or on top of the airbox.
OK, thanks! I will have that in mind if I suddenly wants to do this years Novemberkåsa in Sweden again (which is this 20 hours day and night race). But, if I don't remember wrong, the RR I used last time, was exactly the same sitting on a Suki GSX750. It was huge and the whole idea was better cooling. Anyway, it's worth a try...
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Old 05-10-2012, 02:40 PM   #26
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But hey.. what do I know??
Well, I think you know exactly what I talk about (and LukasM), and you probably have the most experience of most guys in here due to your job. BUT, I have not only failed RR's, but also the stator itself (cross changed some parts and it was the stator in at least two failures). With your knowledge, how likely is the stator to fail if the problem starst on the RR? Imagine the RR fries, what will happen with the stator over some time? I have never figured out what comes first, and I've also had one issue where both devices failed at the same time (well, after the ride that is, so it might be that one device failed first, then taking the other with it).
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Old 05-10-2012, 03:46 PM   #27
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When you have experienced failures does the bike still run on the ignition circuit or does that go too?

Thanks
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Old 05-10-2012, 05:33 PM   #28
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Well, I think you know exactly what I talk about (and LukasM), and you probably have the most experience of most guys in here due to your job. BUT, I have not only failed RR's, but also the stator itself (cross changed some parts and it was the stator in at least two failures). With your knowledge, how likely is the stator to fail if the problem starst on the RR? Imagine the RR fries, what will happen with the stator over some time? I have never figured out what comes first, and I've also had one issue where both devices failed at the same time (well, after the ride that is, so it might be that one device failed first, then taking the other with it).
A dodgy or failing R/R can contribute to the early death of any stator due to extra high loads being placed on the stator windings. This often causes the insulation on the windings to melt or burn, resulting in a shorted coil.

This could give the appearance of a bad stator when the R/R was the root cause.
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:16 PM   #29
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Thumb

Everything is installed now and the bike runs just fine. I saw a high voltage of 14.6 when I revved it up. Not much at idle though.
I just put a temporary switch on where I was told to connect the yellow and red wire in the regulator pigtail. It appears to operate both the headlight and taillight. I will need to wire this into the ignition somehow. I have already ridden around for a while forgetting to turn on my headlight and tail light. Ooops.

Anyway so far so good. Thanks for the help. Hopefully it holds up for a long time!

Cheers
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:58 AM   #30
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A dodgy or failing R/R can contribute to the early death of any stator due to extra high loads being placed on the stator windings. This often causes the insulation on the windings to melt or burn, resulting in a shorted coil.

This could give the appearance of a bad stator when the R/R was the root cause.
Thanks! This explains why sometimes both devices break and sometimes only the RR and so on.
I've also experienced one issue with the ignition coil breaking but the lightning / charging coils working fine.
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