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Old 04-08-2012, 09:22 PM   #1
Wylie OP
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Question Hitachi CB13f Band saw?

It pretty low budget but I got it and a Ridgid 3650 table saw both very lightly used for $300 today.
One fast way to blow a good portion of a tax return but both should be around for a while I'd hope. I know I can go three horse when the table saw motor goes which may be a long ways down the road being I'm setting it up 220 volt.
Table saw I savy, band saw no savy, don't have a clue as to what length blade to get?
I think if it's in the budget and the saw can handle it I'd like to go combination wood/metal blade but the motor only looks to be 1/2 or 3/4 h.p. so I doubt I want to push it very hard.

Any suggestions for blades for this rig?
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:54 AM   #2
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If you don't have it, all them manuals are online.

Here is the Hitachi CB13F:

http://powertool.manualsonline.com/m...l?idRes=627748
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:04 PM   #3
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Don't know what you are cutting, but that saw uses a 80" blade. You can buy them at grainger locally or I like mcmaster carr much better and usually order enough to negate the small shipping fee. They usually have a better selection and a handy guide at the top to explain why you want a skip tooth vs some other type of blade.

My advice having been a professional wood worker and now an amateut metal worker is to buy two blades and change them out. To get good performance out of awood blade the tooth characteristics are completely wrong for metal at least steel. The blades aren't that expensive and you'd wreck awood blade in seconds on steel and a metal blade will start smoking real fast in wood. Use cutting fluid on metal.

Also blade tension makes a big difference make sure you read how to do it. Keep the guide as low as possible every time and make sure the guide blocks or bearings are adjusted correctly
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:08 PM   #4
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Also you can cut most aluminum with a wood blade in a pinch. I use my big table saw for straight line cuts in aluminum with a dedicated blade. Makes a huge racket, wear ear in addition to eye protection!!!
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:48 PM   #5
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Too cool, Thanks guys. I wasn't even sure what length blade to get! The table saw came with the manual but I got nothing with the band saw.

No actual plans as to just what I'll be cutting with the band saw. Most likely I could be looking at some plywood first for a carpet kit for the bed of my pickup.

The deal is the table saw was originally going for $300.00 and the guy I bought it from tossed in the band saw. I have a 16 inch scroll saw for tight turning cuts so I probably wont go so skinny with the blade for the band saw.
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:56 PM   #6
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Most metal cutting bandsaws have some combination of belt, backgear, and or worm gear drive to drop the blade speed.

I think a great early project would be reconfiguring the drive to permit lower cutting speeds if you want to cut some metal.

Perhaps as simple as picking up a few step pulleys if it doesn't have them already, or rigging up a jackshaft/belt tensioner so that you can switch between wood speeds and metal speeds. Most of the old saws have variable speed pulley systems, or some have a gear box and step pulleys.
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:15 PM   #7
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There are a couple different sized pulleys (Not step pulleys, not sure the mach has the depth for much in the way of steps) on this machine although I haven't had a chance to download any manual yet. Still working my way through emails after a couple hours overtime today. This week sounds like a long one!
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:25 PM   #8
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I'm gonna bank on it have two speeds with the pulleys inside the unit behind the lower wheel with low speed being fast.

Real slick would be mounting the motor underneath with enough ratio options to get down under 100 feet/minute.
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:13 PM   #9
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Manual download direct from Hitachi: http://www.hitachi-koki.com/manual_v..._CB13F_409.pdf

Looks like a really nice saw for wood. Needs some low-range action for metal. Good news is you'll have plenty of torque then.

MOTOR
Power source ........................ 120 V, AC, 60 HZ, 7AMPS.
Speeds Low .......................... 1410 F.P.M
(Feet per minute)
High ......................... 2600 F.P.M
Horsepower .......................... 1HP(Max. Developed)
DRIVE BELT A 26
Cutting Capacity
Throat .................................... 12”
Height .................................... 5”
Blade
Width ..................................... 1/8”, 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”
Length ................................... 80”
Table
Size ........................................ 13” x 13”
Tilt .......................................... 0 Left –– 45 Right
DUST COLLECTION....................... Yes
NET WEIGHT.................................. 145.5 LB (66.0 kg)

I think the best option for a compact steel-cutting band saw for smaller work pieces like tubing bends and other compact motorcycle bits is to get one of the handheld saws and mount it with a table. You can actually get a setup that clamps in a vise and mounts the saw, and it's easy to DIY one as well. Any stationary band saw I've ever seen with blade speeds low enough for steel is mucho dinero.
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:40 AM   #10
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The fast speed is good for wood and the slower speed would be good for aluminum, but way too fast for steel.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:11 AM   #11
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Thanks again,
I did download the manual the other day and it answered a lot of my questions.
I just used a hand held band saw at work yesterday, nice tools! Tall uni-strut and 1" rigid conduit like butter I tell ya.
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Okay so I'm not Super Man. I'm just the jack of many trades, master of some yet to find and as the world turns that would only be for a matter of time.

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Old 04-11-2012, 10:24 AM   #12
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run a skip-tooth blade for aluminum so it doesn't load up.
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